Distributer for a Y-Block

What do you mean the one I want? Will the one I bought not work? Even though I bought this spacer...

?????

Thanks!!

 

Yep - It will work with the spacer, the later carbs wouldn't fit without it.

Which type of carb are you hunting for? The Holley 390 cfm is a good match for the 272. I think the smallest Carter/Edelbrock is about 500 cfm. Both will fit on the spacer.

Did you find a point style distributor? The one to ask for is for the '64 F-100 truck with 292. Cardone is the major rebuilder most often found in the states. The truck distributor usually comes with a useful mechanical advance curve and a vacuum pot for economy. They don't come with a cap and rotor, so that is a necessary expense as well. Step two would be to get a Pertronix module for it.

 

I would change all of those hoses before you hit the trail...especially the one between the water pump and the intake. I had one of those burst in transit and it's a bitch to change in nowhere land!

 

Okay, so is this a "bad" intake I bought? Should I keep my eyes out for the other one? Or is this an okay intake to use. I purchased an 1850 Holley I was planning on using.

This ain't the cars first long haul trip, I drive it all across the U.S. and Canada I usually carry as much spare hoses and stuff I can get a hold of. I even carry a spare carb. Only problems (knock on wood). I have had was a broken u-joint, broken o-ring in the carb, and a worn out gasket for my spin on filter conversion. Which is not bad at all considering all the States and Provinces my car has been across.

 

Mitchell has a 272 Y-block which has smaller intake ports than the 292 & 312 and the ports to the heads will not align properly using a "B" intake.This is why I advised Him to use the "A" intake with the adapter.Now had he upgraded to ECZ-C or ECZ-G heads I would have told Him to get a "B" intake,so intake "A" is the correct one in His case.

 

I had an 1850 on mine for awhile and it can work OK. What I found was that you have to try and match the "arc of motion" (leverage) of the original carb. A quick check with a scale will tell you what I mean. As you use the foot pedal to pull the throttle rod back - the old original carb may open a lot more quickly. I finally drilled a "new" hole in my carb lever - at the same radius as the old carb - and things got a lot better. Much easier to set up the linkage.

Also had to change the spring in the vacuum secondary pot to the Holley "Black" (stiffest) spring. The primary of the 1850 is so much bigger than the old carb that you end up tuning it to be like a (very) big two barrel.

 

Just checked today at Autozone and a Y-Block (go with 292 for '62 Galaxie -last year they used Ys in cars) rebuilt distributor is $59.99 wholesale. Know someone who gets parts at cost? Anyway, go with rebuilt distributor (new bushings, points, condenser), I assume you have 4 barrel intake and use a 500 cfm Edelbrock with electric choke (use adapter if you have the '55 small intake), set timing at 10 degrees BTDC and you'll be all good. Then next year after you have put a few miles on the points and condenser, put in a $79.00 Pertronics in place of the points and condenser and you'll REALLY like your Y-Block. The 1955 distributor you have is ONLY vacuum advance and the '57 up (like the '62 292 they still list in modern parts houses) distributor has both vacuum and centrifugal for much better driveability. Best Regards.
RT

 

After reading all the posts you guys forgot to tell this kat that he has to check for a resistor wire to the points or install a ballast resistor do to installing a 12 v gm alternator. All the ignition upgrades will be burnt up and cause drivability issues.