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clutch install help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by shifflett, Mar 23, 2012.

  1. shifflett
    Joined: Nov 30, 2011
    Posts: 117

    shifflett
    Member

    I will be installing a clutch kit in my 53 chevy 150 i was wondering is there anything i need to know and do yall have any tips for me to make this a smooth job and also i have to remove the rear end and torque tube correct?
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,980

    squirrel
    Member

  3. fastcar1953
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,150

    fastcar1953
    Member

    only tip i have is plan a whole day doing it. i done it once about 15 years ago, i did not have to remove rearend though. just remember it took most of the day.
     
  4. wood470
    Joined: May 21, 2008
    Posts: 226

    wood470
    Member

    I did it about 20 times in my 52 chevy, It's real close to the same. ****** comes out thru hole in the floor,should not have to remove rear end just unbolt the driveshaft torque tube at the ball over the u joint and it should slide back enough to unbolt the ****** from the bell housing and pull it back and out thru the hole in the floor.Clutch then comes out and goes back pretty much like always. It s a little messsy on the interior but I think easier than wrestling a ****** on your back.Don t know if you need to know but cluster gear shaft goes out thru the front don't try and beat it out the back
     
  5. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    I've never done that particular vehicle but there are some things that are common to all clutch jobs that should pertain.

    1) If you are reusing the old pressure plate, undo the bolts a little at a time, working your way around the perimeter. If you simply pull out some bolts and leave the others torqued it can warp the pressure plate. Same goes for reinstalling the pressure plate, go around the perimeter and keep slightly tightening the bolts down until they are wrench tight, then torque to the proper setting. I suggest putting all new parts in there while you are at it.

    2) Examine the flywheel when the clutch is removed, looking for scoring, hairline cracks, and any damage. If it looks suspect, take it to a machine shop for possible resurfacing. Not a bad idea anyway.

    3) Inspect the pilot bearing while you are in there. If it seems worn replace it at this time.

    4) Use a clutch alignment tool for your specific application to keep the clutch straight during pressure plate torquing. Keep moving it in and out slightly as you torque the pressure plate to make sure there is no binding which will translate into the transmission input shaft not sliding smoothly into the pilot bearing and clutch plate.

    5) Cleanliness is very important, even finger prints. Wipe the flywheel and pressure plate surface with brake cleaner (everyone has their personal favorites to do this) and use vinyl gloves when handling the clutch plate. Grease on these parts can cause slippage and premature wear.

    6) Use a NEW throwout bearing even if the old one looks good. It is so much easier to change it now than finding out later it is bad and having to do it all over again.

    Finally, block the vehicle up using good jackstands on a level firm surface and leave the floorjack under it for additional protection. It is one thing to bench press a transmission, but another altogether to try lifting a car or truck off of your chest.

    Don
     
  6. shifflett
    Joined: Nov 30, 2011
    Posts: 117

    shifflett
    Member

    Thanks guys its getting new everything the kit came with a grease pack what am i greasing pilot bearing?
     
  7. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

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