after using rustoleum primer and getting very poor results i found this Mr.Rustoleum thread. i'd bought rustoleum primer and color coat but after the crappy results from the primer and reading the other post i don't think i want to use the rustoleum for the color coat. the primer coat will have to be sanded to even consider using it. THE QUESTION: can i spray krylon, or some other brand of rattle can color, over the rustoleum primer or must i strip this to bare metal again?
"very poor results" ... what does that mean? Are you sure the poor results are because of the paint or are the poor results because of laying it on too thick, laying it on too thin, thinning it too much, not thinning it enough, too much air pressure at the gun, not enough air pressure at the gun, air temp too cold to paint, painting it outside when too windy, wrong thinner for the paint, gun not set right (paint flow-air) etc?
I believe that Rustoleum is laquer base so a topcoat other than lacquer isn't going to be compatible. The Krylon you mention is probably lacquer based and would be compatible.' Duplicolor has sprayable lacquer in quarts now and is available from NAPA and some chain parts stores.
I did you shake the rattle can for 5 minutes before trying to use it? Was it bought in a store that sells its paint pretty quickly, or has the can been on the shelf for over a decade? Were the temp and conditions right for painting? how good was your prep to begin with? Can you go in with a light sanding to correct the problems with the primer coat? What are you painting, the frame? the body? an engine component????
we have learned that Rustoleum and Krylon just don't get along. I am not smart enough to know why, but I am smart enough not to try it any more. It only took a few dozen bad experiences to come to that conclusion!
dots of paint in the fine mist & bubbles in the paint. exactly the issues mentioned in the linked thread. rattle can; no pressure or gun issues. thanx; i think. see squirrel's response below. yes on the shaking. HD; i doubt that it's been on the shelf all that long; it's the "new" style can & nozzle rustoleum, which i believe hasn't been on the market for very long. conditions ok. prep - down to bare metal yes, i can sand the primer; my question is compatibility. sheet metal. thanx. i'll confirm. now; all that said; if the rustoleum says enamel i need to either strip it off or use a color coat that says enamel also? my question is basically compatibility. i don't know what works with what. i know nearly nothing about paints. i heard many years ago that you could shoot color of one kind over primer of the same kind or a different kind, but other kinds of paint had to be shot over primer of the same kind. none-the-less, i have no clue as to what i heard or even if it was true. again, my question is only compatibility of paints. it was nice of all of you to ask those other questions &/or point me in the direction of what might have gone wrong, but the only thing i need is what's compatible with what. thanx for all the help.
When are people going to learn.... 1...Spray bomb paints are crap 2...You get what you pay for 3...See #1
Rustoleum is an oil based enamel. Lacquer will eat it. Krylon has a rust type paint as well and is also oil based. I just had a guy bring me bike fairings that he painted with krylon rust paint as a primer and used duplicolor over it for a color coat and they did not like each other. Didn't dry either. I rinsed them both off with lacquer thinner and a tooth brush. You don't need primer for rustoleum.
thanx all. looks like i'll strip to bare metal again. i've got a compressor and a couple of spray guns, but i've never sprayed from a gun (they are both new/unused). perhaps it's time i learned.
Learning to shoot paint is a skill that will serve you well. It'll save you an immesurable amount of money, give you great satisfaction, and last but not least, save you the embarassment of posting Rust-O-Leum spray bomb painting questions on the 'net! Brian
I have used DuPont ChromaBase with PPG Overall clear on top of Rustoleum's automotive primer for a spot repair. Works well actually.
Mike, If you are doin body stuff,just use automotive laquer primer and laquer topcoat or single stage acrylic enamel[O'reillys have these]... Rustoleum is fine for inner surface painting and underside of floors etc but hey its an oil base enamel....If you use it [spray]whatever you do always use Laquer thinner at about 20% instead of any other reducer...... actually if cost is important most farm stores handle either Vansickle or other brands that are actually even better grade[higher solids primers] than Rustoleum.... Vent the area well and wear a good respirator.
I did not realize you had painted using the new style nozzle spray cans. I have used those cans once ... never again, I also emailed the company and let them know the new nozzles suck. You say you have a compressor and guns ... I suggest you simply sand the primer on your car (to smooth it) and reshoot it using a gun and not the spray cans. Guns (as I imagine you already know) are completely adjustable and will allow you to lay on a nice coat. I do understand that a LOT of people claim that Rustoleum is not a "good" paint (lacking UV protection, the ability to add a hardener etc) but it is CHEAP and a reasonable job can be had with this paint. I painted my entire car using Tremclad (basically the Canadian equivalent of Rustoleum) and am happy with the results and have well under $100 in the primer and paint. I should note though, I mixed gloss and flat to get a flatish/semigloss dark blue color that (I think) looks like faded original paint. As for compatability (the real question behind this post) I have heard from several people that all traces of "rust" paint must be removed before you can coat with a real automotive paint. Are these people correct? I don't know the answer to that ... I think what you need to do (if you do choose to repaint using a "real" auto paint) would be to purchase the paint you intend to use (an enamel if Rustoleum is an enamel) and shoot the trunklid or something small. If there is as a reaction, then you will need to strip the entire car ... if there is no reaction, then paint the rest of the car. If you are going to buy "real" autopaint and spray it out of a gun, why not just try Rustoleum through a gun first? One heck of a lot cheaper and no worries regarding compatability ... Rustoleum over Rustoleum. By the way, thinning and spraying Rustoleum is a LOT cheaper than buy it in a spray can. Best of luck.
To answer your question best I can, I re-did some of the body work on my Model A and sprayed most all of it with the Omni Brand Primer then Omni Brand top coat (single stage). Except for the extra work required, it went really well. I did have one little spot I had previously done the body work to and sprayed with Rustoleum Primer that I didn’t sand back down and re-spray with the Omni. This is about a 2 inch X 3 inch spot that had bubbled through and I had already done the body work on a couple of months prior to doing the other work. I sprayed over the Rustoleum primer on that little spot with the Omni top coat and it looked good for the 1st week, but then it started to crack. By crack, I mean that little spot looks like a dry lake bed. Its not real bad, but I would’ve been devastated if the entire rear of the car that I re-did looked like that. It will be coming back down when I do some more of the body work to correct the next couple of months.
great stuff. thanx to everyone that's given me advice. i think i'll do a search on here to see if i can gather enough information to teach myself how to use the spray gun(s). NOTE: if anyone has a favorite thread or knows of any good ones please post a link here or send me a pm with the link. i've got plenty of things i can learn on; antique porch/lawn chairs, concrete mixer, welding table legs, grinder stands, sand blast cabinet, even the old 3/4 ton ford wood hauler, etc. i could attempt to do an amateur paint job on the el camino i started to restore about 15 years ago (hasn't been touched since the 1st wife left me 11 years ago; i lost interest in a lot of things along about then). if that turns out good enough i might even reshoot clarence. he sure needs it.
Good plan Mike! All this bomb can shit is a waste of time and money. Do a search for Overspray. Read everything he's posted.
Mike ,, do not forget to use a or a couple of water traps if you are going to start gun spraying. Drain your compressor and your traps, Did I say, drain, oh yeah I did!
I've often wondered the same with my own spray paint compatability issues. In my research I've discovered what appears to be a mysterious vortex that attracts that very same conveniently dispensed material, in large numbers, and apparently at great expense to the public. After an exhausting tally of brands within the impact zone and much study of the areas of the random, previously applied products (and a few self-administered test areas) I came to the conclusion that my next spray booth should be out in the middle of a corn field.
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