So I tried the drill bit trick that showed up alittle while ago to no avail...so what are the other options for getting them out?
burn it out with a torch, once it's heated up should push right out. It's messy and stinks but works!
Here's how I did it. From my log - Then the old bushings were removed. I used Harbor Freight's "3-in-1 Service Kit" (#38335-0VGA) in combination with my impact wrench for this task and it turned an all-day job, peppered with cursing, into a half hour job. Drove each bushing half way out, then stopped long enuf to insert a 5/8" short socket between the tool and bushing as a spacer since the tool's screw was to big to fit in the bushing hole.
burn them out quick and easy, but as already stated watch the fumes they are nasty. you can also use a socket which the bush will fit inside a long bolt with a washer stick the bolt with the washer through the bush and the socket fit the nut and wind the bush into the socket [if that makes any sense]
Find the tightest fitting socket to insert into the bore, and an impact driver to pound it out. Might need a little heat persuasion to get it to break free, but that usually does the trick.
First off what bushing are you removing? 'Rear as Laroke shows, Front A frame bushing or???? There are different methods for each. I've got the OTC ball joint press that that HF unit that Laroke showed in his photo and a friend who use to borrow mine all the time bought the HF one and uses it a lot. along with the press in ball joints that they are made for the can push busings out as he shows and work great for changing U joints without hassles. Now Dan, what bushing are you working on?
lower a arm bushing on MII (will need to do all as am rebuilding everything) used the ball joint press like shown above and pushed the steel sleeve out of the arm, rubber stayed put...put a torch to it and made some progress and am gonna try again this morning, one out I'll have to see if I can push the sleeve back in and weld it up, hopefully nothing got tweaked... what a pain in the ass...
I've always gone with the tried and true air chisel method. I first get under the bushing flange to get it moving out of the arm, then go to the sleeve on the shaft. Once that breaks loose, I go back to the flange and it comes right out. I've used the same method with a hand chisel and BFH, still works only takes 20x as long. Bob
Just the bushing only? Usually you would get the whole assembly with the metal sleeve that fits into the control arm.
The stock bushings come with the steel sleeve as in this one: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_02936_1134537_3703&pt=02936&ppt=C0106 The poly bushings require you to use the old sleeve.
so maybe I am okay...I'll press that sleeve out and see whats up. Do those stock arms have a left and right side??
Be careful not to tweak the A arm when putting in the new bushings. As mentioned, they come with the sleeve intact on them. I took the easy way out. I removed my arms and dug the old bushing/sleeve out, then took the new bushings and and A arms to the local machine shop and just let them press them in. It was $75 for all 4 uppers and lowers and not worth the hassle or chance of tweaking the arms if I did it on my press.
I did a complete set in my first car, a 57 Chev. I cut them just inside the A-frame to get the center out. Then I put a hacksaw blade inside and cut almost all the way through to the A-frame. A chisel and hammer finished removing the pieces. I installed the bushings using a threaded rod, socket and washers. I cut a couple of pieces of flat stock to keep the A frame from squeezing together. I did an ot pickup a few years ago and it was much easier with a 6" grinder with a cut-off wheel and the OTC ball joint press. You still need spacers to prevent squeezing the A frame.
If the bushing has a flange, the air chisel method is fast and easy. You'll be done in minutes. I've busted too many knuckles trying all the other methods.
When you get the bushing shell out, you will have a "U" shaped channel with large holes on either side that is not very strong. Measure that channel distance and cut a spacer to keep the channel from bending/folding when you press the new bushing in. I measure and cut a piece of exhaust pipe, split it in two pieces to act as spacers to keep the walls from bending as the press drives the new bushing into place. Once the bushing is in place the spacers will fall out and the strength of the control arm is restored. With out the spacers it's very easy to screw up a perfectly good control arm with a shop press.
^^Good tip. I've got some cut pieces of tubing that I use for that exact same function. It's not as easy as it looks to get a "squished" control arm back into it's original shape.
Yep, Tommy's tip in the spacers for that job is a great tip. I needed that on years ago when I changed bushings in one of that style control arm the first time.
got one side lower and upper done, air hammer seemed to work pretty good... threw the rack in the vice to push those bushings (the mounts) out, grabbed the ball joint press (dont know why I didnt stick with the air hammer) and started pushing one out when "BANG" the round tube piece that encapsulates the bushing broke... I know steering is no place to take chances but do you guys feel it would safe to tig this piece back together??? this has turned into a giant PITA! thanks...
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