Let me start out with: i'm building a 50 ford coupe and plan on running a 351 in it. Got a t5 out of a s10 because of the shifter location. Also got a bellhousing out of an 89 5.0 mustang. The bellhousing is set up for a cable. I want to go hydraulic. Can I just buy a hydraulic throwout bearing? If you go that route do you eliminate the fork? I'm piecing this thing together with junkyard parts and don't really know what I'm doing (always had autos). I don't think the bellhousing I have will work if I do need a fork, because of the pivot point (if that makes sense). Please help!! Thank you.
Hydraulic throwout bearing does do away with the fork, but when you price them, you may rethink your plan.
I certainly don't claim to be an expert. But here's the system: your clutch pedal actually actuates a small master cylinder that has a fluid line that runs to the hydraulic throwout bearing and actuates that. So yes, the clutch fork and any other linkage are not used. Find out about the line between the clutch master cylinder and the hydraulic throwout bearing. In some cases, the connections on each end are special so that you must buy a factory line. What I do not know it how the hydraulic throw out bearing is mounted. Mine slips over the input shaft and is bolted to the back of the bellhousing. Hope that helps.
Been running the speedway motors hyd throw out bearing in my Model A for the last 7 years with no problems. Love the simple mounting a single braided hose....
Do a search on here for hydraulic throwout bearings. Seems quite a few having lots of problems with new units is not abnormal, of course, some have had great results. However, in the 50, I'm thinking you got more room than most to run a cable. The hydraulic TO bearings seem to be used more on the smaller cars (like 30's Fords etc) with not much room for linkage. At least investigate using the bellhousing you have with some clutch linkage modification. You said you had a cable bell so the fork pivot point is on the p***enger side of the bell rather than the driver side as used with a Z bar setup. You also don't have swing pedals if I recall , so it would probably be easier to adapt a swing pedal to your car rather than use the floor pedal with a cable, but I guarantee you that someone on the HAMB has done it both ways. If you use the hydraulic TO bearing you still have to adapt a MC to actuate that TO bearing. To me, it seems it would be easier to adapt it for cable use like Ford intended and not worry with the hydraulic TO bearing chances of leaking. If it leaks, the ******s got to come out. There are some real horror stories on here about brand new units leaking, multiple times. Of course those that have not had that problem will say otherwise. You should just investigate both ways and make your own decision. Good Luck BOutlaw
True indeed. I suspect some of the bad reputation hydraulic throw out bearings have gotten is because of failure from over extension due to installation errors. It's imperative that the designer/installer understand the travel limit, and provide a positive stop on the clutch pedal travel to prevent blowout from over extension. If the bore areas of master and slave or equal, the travel will be equal, but if not, compare the ratios accordingly to get the travel right. Bob
I've been running a Speedway Motors hyd throwout bearing going on four years now. I have around 50,000 miles on it and have had to replace the orings in it twice. It's a pain in the rear pulling it out to repair but it does work well and was easy to set up. Keep in mind when the orings go out you get very little warning.
How about leaving the fork but use a hydraulic slave cylinder to replace the cable? Simple and cheap and easy to replace if it goes bye bye.
I agree, use a slave setup like pictured above - simple, effective and easy to fix should you need to.
Wow! Thanks for the input everyone. I'm thinking maybe go with a cable for now and keep an eye out for a hydraulic style bellhousing. Still haven't made up my mind. The slave cylinder sounds like a good idea. Know any good aftermarket companies or maybe a make/model that came with a good setup?
is the fox bodied bell too short 5/8ths for a 351's crank hub? do you need the 5/8ths longer bell from a later mustang?
i use a mcloud go on their web site they show you how to measure to get the right parts. they have different piston lengths available. there bearings have a bleeder line that comes off them. just make sure you put it on the top so you can bleed it. their bearings have rubber inside that slides over the input shaft that grips it and holds it in place. 4an lines allow for quick release. i use a clutch master cylinder with a 3/4" bore for good travel and a positive feel. works great in my car with no failures.
I'm w/ Racer-X. I'll stand up for McLeod products. I've been running their clutches, housing & hyd. release bearing for 6 or 7 years on the street & on the track. I beat the **** out of it every chance I get. Set it up correctly. No worries. -DW
I've got a brand new Ford one at home that I'm not going to use-I think it's McLeod-I could check when I get home. I'd make you a deal on it.
also, some s-10's had a hydraulic throw out bearing, if you wanted to go that route, they can be had relativity cheaply from your favorite parts house.. just a thought there too, but i think I would say run a slave cyl.
Personally I would use a slave as my first choice and then my second choice would be a cable set up like the Mustangs use today . "Z" bars just plain **** ! Get a slave and you will love it . Retro Jim
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