I could use some advice. 32 ford hood top in very rusty condition, way too thin to sandblast. I read many threads here and also youtube. Baking soda put in oven 450 degrees 45 minutes to make it into "washing soda"? 2.5 days in the tank and amps vary 2 to 5, depending on how dirty the anodes get. improper anode placement shows some rust was not touched, but the rest goes to a flat black. The black will sort of come off with lots of effort with a hand wire brush. If I clean a spot to bare steel, then put it back in, it will turn black again So, questions are; will I lose any good metal trying to get the other rust spots off? And, how do you remove the black coating? Thanks
I have no experience with the method you mention, but I have soaked parts for a day or two in Evaporust and the stuff is amazing. Rust goes away, leaves very clean bare metal, takes no metal away, and does not touch paint. Parts come out looking like brand new. However, you need to treat the now clean metal immediately with some rust preventative or it will flash rust quickly. Don
Northern Tool has it. Also comes in gallons. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial Don
I always use washing soda...maybe different? you always have to use a wire brush to "clean" the part. just a reminder elecroysis only works with line of sight. when i have inconsistent results i change things around. make sure the "contacts" areas are clean, use a grinder for the best contact! I have had parts that just won't derust till i get things right, then works well!
This process works in "line of sight" method. Needs good anodes , if your part is really rusty the anodes will foul faster.. Chubby types faster. Lol
hey frank, I think they sell it at tractor supply if you have one near you?? I've got one a couple miles from here. Never used it, just thought they might sell it and they do!
I've used the electrolysis process a number of times with good success. I have not tried the baking soda in the oven trick. I use either washing soda or PH increaser. The PH increaser can be found anywhere you buy swimming pool or hot tub products. Both of these products are 100% Sodium Carbonate. Also, try standing the hood side up in the vertical position in the solution with the anodes on both sides. As said before, line of sight is everything in this process. I use a wire brush on a four inch grinder to clean the part after removal from the solution. The electrolysis process does not affect the good metal.
I can mimic Don on the Evaporust. Been using it for 7-8 years. It is amazing and non-toxic. Not super-fast acting. Can take several days to do it's work. Can go down the drain when needed to be disposed of.
You know you can buy Washing Soda in a box for probably less than running your oven for 45 min. Part of your problem may be that you need bigger/more anodes for a part that big. From the build up of gunk on your anodes, you also need to take them out and clean them more often. EvapoRust works really well, but it's pretty expensive. You can get it in quart containers at AutoZone. Vinegar is about $1/gallon and works almost as well as EvapoRust.
i have some parts here done with mol***es, they came out really well, one part mol***es to ten parts water, let soak for a week and hose it off, i also have a friend with an electrolysis setup that does well but it just seems like more work.
Yes, 5 miles, I need to go get black beauty anyways, so I will ask. Yes, but not one hardware store here can find it in their order books...also checked old time grocers...nope.. yes, I need larger, but I have cleaned the anodes quite often. I can try AZone, 5 miles away.. So these 2 won't hurt any good metal? I can't afford to lose any THANKS guys
from what I read, evaporust does not heart metal at all. not an acid. pour it down the drain when done. vinegar is an acid so it will remove some metal I guess. think that is pretty negligible though
No, the Evaporust takes off NO metal at all. I soaked some Dodge cowl lights that were very rusty. A day or two later when I pulled them out they literally looked like NOS lights. The black paint was still there and shiny and the bare metal portions were whistle clean, even on the inside of the housing. It even removed rust stains from the chrome and gl*** lenses. Those lenses looked crystal clear. My Son tried it and didn't think it worked but he just brushed it on some parts and then removed it. To work it has to soak for a while. As I recall, I pulled the parts out after maybe a day and they were starting to get clean so I put them back in for a day or so more. I have some Guide lights to clean up and will do the Evaporust routine and post some before and after pictures at some point. Don
Evaporust is very effective, will not damage the metal at all, and causes no probles with acid residue. Only defect is that it is expensive, so you need to apply a little creativity to dunking large or irregular objects. for a hood, you could make up a sort of shallow cardboard try, lay in a big sheet of plstic, then support the edges of your tank with some bricks. with a good setup you could soak hood panels in one or two gallons. Anybody want to form a New Jersey Evaporust consortium? We could pool our funds to build and fill an Evaporust swimming pool. Find a rusty deuce? Just push it into the pool and check back in a couple days.
You need bigger anodes, it works best if they are bigger than the part. Go to home depot or a pool supply and get ph increaser. With bigger anodes you should get higher amps, like 10-15. Chris
Ok, 3 plus hours since I read the suggestions, so I went right out and made 2 curved anodes to follow the curved bottom of the 1/2 drum. Those are where the vise grip clamps are, and the hood side is upside down, so those might clean the top better. Then one more long anode going from front to back, near the surface. Then added another power wire to the hood, so power is at 2 diagonal corners. Amps went way up over 10 to start, then after 3 hours now, holding at 5 amps. The other threads/videos said that's about right? look how much stuff is on the new anode at the top already, in 3 hrs. I'll try this overnight. If it still ****s, I will go shopping in the AM
Looks better. I've found that electrolysis works better than EvapoRust, is a LOT cheaper, and works faster. Plus it neat and science-y. I got Arm & Hammer washing soda online. It was one of the first places that popped up. Shipping cost more than the box of product. Read the bottle of EvapoRust. It MAY harm aluminum or anodizing. You can buy it by the barrel (or gallon) directly from the company, AND you can reuse it several times before you pour it down the drain. Same with vinegar... which is a lot cheaper.
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