any rods runnin a trunk or oddly mounted radiator?

in a rod or sled... idea im kickin around, want to hear if anyone has done it, yes, im aware it need a fan,. and ventalation, in the form of a open space to bring air in..... some cars were sort of made this way, with radiator getting air, but not like in froint of car, but well cooled with BIG fan... what do you guys think??? any input is appreciated... and yes, i am aware it would get UGLY if it overflows.... LOL...

 

i'm not running one, but i have seen it done ,and even then i thought why?
for the cost of putting one in the rear of your car,and doing all the mods to make it work in the proper fashion. you could get an aluminum radiator custom built to the space you have to work with in the front.
my two cents.
later
kenny

 

you water pump has to be able to move the volume of water in those nice long hoses fast enough to get it into the radiator and cooled.

my buddy bought a car that had a scirocco radiator mounted behind the p***enger door skin which was louvered...
didnt work well so he put the radiator in the proper position.

 

thinkin of doin it in a rod, ive seen it in modern cars, and older ones... thought maybe someone would know some tricks... thinkin of mounting radiator in p***enger side somewhere of a modified to keep front end nice and WIDE open... rnunin a straight 6 in it, so i dont think it will be too too hot, not hi-po motor.... hhmmmm.... in the door skin you say.... hmmm... could even vent the door with louvers, would look good too.... hmmm... nice slim fan,,,, hmmmm... man, this gets more complicated, LOL... im really just aiming to do everything backwards... never thought about needing a very strong water pump though, good observation... niec to get help before the people come in lettin me know how dumb it is of an idea, even though it has been done several times before... i mean what about the rods built with frame holding coolant? ive seen that in old 40s/50s pics... real cool, but wouldnt cool off motor at all, only works due to volume they can hold...

 

i think the fact that your running a six vs. v8
shouldn't sway you .
they all run about the same operating temp.
i've seen inline six motors that stay at 210 all day long and never overheat.
i would never knock you for trying something that is not the norm.
but i think you should look at all the pros and cons
if your looking to keep it clean up front you might want to get a vw.
haha
kenny

 

damn, told me to get a Vdub!... LMAO... there must be someone here... all this info and kick backs are great... now im thinkin real wierd... i mean there are several rods out there with no frount mount radiator... and hell man, my flatty 6 runs 210-220 all day , no overheating, and cant get it below that, idk whats up with it... had 2 fans on it for a while, dropped to 200-210, 190 is IMPOSSIBLE, tried thermo, diff coolant, EVERYTHING< LMAO... either way... i was just sayin, not like i have a big bad built motor... i think most times it doesnt work so good is when there is no fan involved

 

I saw a pic of a roadster in one of the recent mags, either OSR or hot rod deluxe. It was open in front with no grill or radiator and it looked bichen! I think they said the radiator was between the frame rails. anyway very uncommon but looked cool. probably be a real pain in the *** to pull off right.


HotRob

 

A friend has a '35 Ford coupe with this setup under construction. I asked him what would happen if one of the PVC pipes broke that ran throught the interior. Said he could sleep that nite thinking about it.

 

I've seen 'em in the beds of trucks (even Fad style Ts) I put one in the trunk of a '59 Volvo once, mounted at an angle with a sheet metal duct under to move air through the radiator and louvred the trunk lid. Didn't have a fan but it worked fine as long as it was going down the road. You must be aware it was usless unless you were zoomin' but a fan might have cured that.

Don't know how you would do it in a modified unless you have some sort of a turtle deck. Under the deck would be doable with a scoop for air aan electric fan and louvres in the lid.

 

that truck that looked like an eagals head had the rad. in the bed.
what is it you are building with this in mind?

 

26 chevy modified... underslung ch***is .... straight 6 ... 17" spokes. ..... lookin for even more rediculous stuff, as if upside down suspension isnt enough..... with no truck bed, im lilmited, but i dont care about p***engers, so that spot is fine with me, they can have little to no leg room, just WATCH OUT if it boils OVER!!!>>> LMAO<<<<

 

anyone know what taht throttlers silver truck does for radiator?? between frame rails seems cool, but gotta make a plate uinder it, otherwise it would pop ALL the timne... LOTS of air under there too... no fan needed then... hmmmmm

 

For what it's worth, Magnum-PI-style Ferrari 308s use the same arrangement, just flipped around. The engine's in back, and the radiator is up front. I don't believe that it requires an especially powerful water pump to complete the coolant circuit. They use a regular thermostat, and a temperature controlled electric fan to add extra cooling to the radiator.

 

Well I was thinking about it some... If you really want ot do it and make it work right it will be alot of cutting and work. If you put it in the trunk you will need inlets and outlets for the air. At low speed the fan willl do the cooling and you will need fairly high powered fans, but it will be in a cooler area than right next to the engine.

***uming it is a model A coupe.....

The air inlet can come from the bottom of the car. Oultlet can be through the trunklid.

Here's what I came up with.

Slot cut in trunk floor approx 1/2 the surface area of the radiator. full ductwork to the radiator made of sheet aluminum. Radiator is leaned forward to fit under trunklid. Radiator is mounted as close to the lid as it can, providing space for fans. Two fans are used as puller fans between the trunk lid and radiator. Tunk lid is heavily louvered. when trunk is shut it seals to the radiator.

Things to think about.

You will need a scoop or spoiler for the air intake on the bottom of the car or it will actually **** the air the wrong way at speed.

There may be too much back pressure at high speeds, so rubber flaps might need to be in the ductwork somewhere as relief valves.

To help cooling, you can make the tubes that run from the engine to the back out of aluminum and add cooling fins to them. Even steel tube with smaller diameter tube tacked to the outside radius will help.

You will have no trunk left after this.

interesting idea to think about, but not sure how useful it is.

 

now I see what it is going into....so maybe my ideas won't work.. got a pic of the modified?

 

Alot of mud racers run their radiators in the beds of there trucks.The key is to have a good water pump and keep the lines realitive small.I am guessing but lookin at the ones I have seen the hoses were braided and were probably 1 in or maybe 1 1/4.Smaller hoses should help keep pressure up.You could always run a remote electric pump such as I run on my Super Street drag car to help ***ist the manual pump.The biggest downer I see would bleeden the system of air.I spoke with one individual and he told me it took over 2 hours to bleed it down.

Hope this helps
Shoe

 

Seen at Viva this year....

 

thats the throttlers truck (im 99% sure)... i need more angles on it... jsut like im tryin to run, but i want no truck bed, simple modified body... that looks SOOOOOO sweet

 

I dont think the water pump is an issue.When I worked at pontiac dealer we had them damn fiero's to work on.The water pump's were the same as the one on car's with engine and rad in front. GREGG

 

how much room do you have directly behind the cab?

 

this is more planning stage,... i could run it behind "cab" or "bucket" if u will, but thats more piping... gotta figure this out... maybe mounted on back of bucket, befoire rear axle... that could work, was gonna drop gas tank in there, but maybe it would work... more i think about it, more its gonna go by frame rails... but cant think of where, i mean frame is only about 35" wide, and i have a driveshaft to think about., LOL... needs to be around lots of air... behind bucket would be decent, but if it ends up needin a fan, now THAT would look GAY!

 

That's Deek's truck. Throttlers member and resident knitting goo-roo. Do a search for the deviator... You'll find some pics, **** talk, ideas.. almost everything you want to know about a rear mounted radiator. Good luck with your project.

LP

 

Here... I did one to see if the ol' HAMB search still works and came up with this:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25839&page=1&pp=20&highlight=deek

and this:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12191&highlight=throttlers


LP

 

Check out Larry Erickson's Potvin blown Chevy coupe. I spoke to him recently about the rad location... Unfortunately I was a little awestruck and had a little too many martini's, but he said the finned cooler lines did not work. I think he mentioned something about copper tubing working. Either way it worked... Damn them martinis...

IfI run into him again I will inquire further....

 

More pics of Deek's ride , hope these help ...

 

Frame rails as a radiator, make your frame from 2" round tube and just run the water throught it, back one side and up the other. should be enough surface area to cool the water without a radiator or fan.

the only problem my buddy ran into is rust inside the rails, powdercoating the insides might be an option.

Why straight 6, why not a RX7 ****el?

 

Hey I just noticed (or realized) that you are talking about putting the radiator in the p*** seat. I guess that would work but it is about like haveing a heater core over there only bigger. Can you imagine how hot that is going to be even in an open air ride?
Here's an idea, why not carve out a grill opening in the back of your bucket and mount it behind the seat. You can enclose it with sheet metal and duct air f up from underlieth the car and let it puish out the back. By the time you get you fuel tank and everything else out back it chould be hardly noticable.

Here's a rough idea of what I'm talkin' about. Think tub cut down the middle when you look at this.

 

porkn******,
i like that concept,looks quite do-able.

 

Regardless of whether you can come up with a system that works or not, it's going to be a huge pain in the *** and probably be more trouble tha its worth. Is it that much of a h***le to have a front radiator? Is the look of an open front end so valuable that you will sacrifice your trunk, many hours, lots of extra cash, and the practicality of the trunk to keep it?

We use a rear mounted radiator in our Formula SAE car, which works fine. However, we have a shroud with 2 pullers on the back, in addition to it being mounted to the outside of the car in the open. This setup would look hideous on your modified.

Having a custom radiator made from Griffin might aid cooling with the radiator hidden, but will also cost a small fortune. Duct work from the bottom of the car into the radiator will work, but only at speed. Also remember that you will pick up rocks and road debris that wil hit your radiator at the same speed that you are driving. If you bottom out, buh bye ductwork. Frame members used as coolant lines is a terrible idea. Mild steel soaked constantly in water will naturally rust and put that rust into your coolant system, destroying your water pump and clogging your radiator.

You could theoreticaly use 2 radiators. A small one in front and a another in the trunk. Use a mechanical fan or no fan on the front and then have electric fans hidden on the shroud to the trunk mounted radiator. Remember that a puller is 25% more efficient than a pusher.

Lots of work, with enough money and head scratching time, anything is possible.

 

Here's a remote oil cooler with fan made by empi for air cooled VW's. Before the bashing begins, people will respect your creativity. If not **** 'em. Know one cares what it was ment for if your worried lie to them.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...tom-0/p-2000825/N-111+600004722+10210/c-10110

I've see guy's in autralia run 3 of these on the in a c pattern surrounding the ******, under the seat. Lots of air flow. If it will cool a turbocharged 600 hp aircooled vw it will cool your 6.

Dave