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'30 tudor with Y block

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 46international, Apr 4, 2012.

  1. OK, so I've started on my '30 tudor and need some advice.

    I've got a 1959 292 Y block to put in it, but it looks like I need about 3 to 4 inches more room between the firewall and the rear of the front crossmember. I was going to move the crossmember forward some but dont know if that would be enough room. I don't want to cut the firewall or move it back unless i have to. Can I cut some off of the rear flange of the crossmember?

    I also have a late 40's front axle that mounts the axle behind the spring so if I move the crossmember forward the axle could sit in the stock location, not that this matters, just don't want the wheelbase shorter than stock.

    I could stretch the frame and don't mind doing this.

    I really don't like the spring in front of the axle thing but it will get the front end down some. I don't think I would mind hanging the spring from the split bones. Advice on doing this would be great.

    What I'm asking is for ideas and thoughts from some who have done this, what looks the best and works the best.
     
  2. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,283

    F&J
    Member

    Most replies will say don't do the spring ahead...but, that was done so very often back in the day. They did it to get the car lower, without buying a dropped beam, and they also got hydraulic brakes at the same time.

    If you plan it out right, it will look old time, if that's what you are after. I am not a fan of spring perches off the bones, mainly because I never saw it back then. I like to see the old ways once in a while at the shows. It's not going to please everyone, but it's not a crime :)

    I am just not sure how you will be able to do the radiator location? That would need to be thought out first IMO
     
  3. yblock292
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,937

    yblock292
    Member

    on my 30 coupe with 56 292, i stretched the frame 7 1/2" just behind the firewall and was able to keep the stock firewall and has good leg room.
     
  4. Yblock292, yes I searched and read your thread, do you realy need 7 1/2"? quick measuring shows me that I may need 3 to 4" . Does the disy come out at an angle toward the rear or does it come out straight up just tword the right side?
    I was thinking about stretching the frame but was thinking about doing it in front of the steering box, this will give more room for headers. Thoughts?
     
  5. to make my last post somewhat clearer, I was thinking if i stretch the frame infront of the steering box it would put the box more to the rear of the motor, with the angle of the column, this would give a little more room for the last exhaust port on the left side.

    F&J, the radiator would just mount on top of the crossmember just like it should. Do you forsee a problem with the spring in front of the axle thing or were you refering to a problem with the spring mounted to the split bones? Sorry, I don't follow you.
     
  6. greasemunkee
    Joined: Jul 13, 2009
    Posts: 174

    greasemunkee
    Member
    from San Diego

    Tom, sorry it took a while to get these for you. The pictures below show how much you would have to scoot the cross member forward to use the spring in front as the bones are made. I'm going to cut the spring mounts off and use a spring over axle as is shown. One other thing I noticed was the angle of the spring mounts if you mount the bones to the outside of the frame. You're either going to have to put a bend in the bones, or bend the cast iron spring mounts back so that the spring shackles line up. Also, here's a mock up of how I'm getting past the mounts blocking the stock steering location on the Model A frame. Once I get them measured out correctly I'm going to put some gussets above and below the mounting arm to make sure it's nice and solid. Also, I'm going to cut the lip on the cross member down to match the smaller area so I can move the block up another inch or so. Hope this helps out some.
     

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  7. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    Same ingredients 30/Y/40. I cut the crossmemeber into 3 pieces put it in front of itself & made "extentions" connecting it back to the frame on the sides. I hate drilling out rivets plus it leaves locators on the frame. Has a great oldtime look, untouched firewall, radiator will move a little forward onto the new extentions. Steering box will lay on top of frame with forward steering.
     

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  8. Well, last Sunday my future son-and-law and I cut the frame and extended it 5 1/2" this gives me the room I needed to get the front pulley just behind the rear of the front crossmember. I have to do something about the steering box, it hits the rear of the left side head and wont let me get the motor centered. I going with the stock steering box, I will rebuild it with roller bearings on the sector shaft and shorter pitman arm. I think what I will do is section out some of the outter tube down next to the steering box and make a shorter mounting adapter ( the housing for the sector shaft) out of steel to get another 1/2" of room.
     
  9. Mataconcepts, thanks for posting-up. looks great. I don't understand how you will do your steering. My front crossmember looks like it is all bolted in. I was thinking about welding it solid, what do you think? I was also thinking about taking some of the "dip" out of the crossmember, how low does yours sit? say from the front tip of the frame horn to the ground?
     
  10. Mataconcepts, it looks like you are not splitting the bones? did you weld in the Model A yoke to the replacement bones? once I get the motor placed I was going to see if that would help so I would not have to split the bones.

    wish I could post photos but for some reason I can't.
     
  11. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    yeah, ad some weld to the crossmember & leave the bolts.

    you could take the "dip" out the crossmember or make longer shackels or both.

    place the steering box right up against the firewall mounting down on the frame. 30's/early40's Chevy box(that little sq. one with the sq. plug on top) might work.

    don't split the bones!!! Just replace(weld-in) the ball with a big tie rod.
     
  12. the ball on my stock "A" bones is in VERY good shape and I read someplace (here or a mag.) about welding in the "A" yoke to make it easer to use non-split bones. I have a while before I get to the front end. so we'll see.
     
  13. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    SOUNDs GOOD. I tend to use what I have on hand.
     
  14. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    have the body on when you place the engine & make sure the dist w/ cap are on.

    side note: My motor had a big front motor mount under the crank pulley that I notched like a 2-point fork to rest on the crossmember around the perch u-bolts
     
  15. I also have the front mount, but I got the motor to sit much lower in the frame and I'm going with some side mounts that will need to be made up. Just ordered the biscuit mounts. I dont think i'll get the mounts for the weekend but I've got alot of work to do on the frame still, boxing the inside etc... also I think I will chuck up the sector housing from the steering box in the lathe and take about 1/16" off of it to get me some more room between the box and the motor.
     
  16. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

  17. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

  18. So I learned how to post pictures, and here are some. This is when I was loading it up and just after I got the fenders off and got it in the garage. since these were taken, I got a subframe built so the body is in one piece and the doors open and close.

    Thanks for the help so far.
     

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