Bought this dialarc got everything set up today and wallah it doesn't work.. Any help would be appreciated .. The machine turns on and there is a small spark .. It's on a 220v 60amp breaker.. With 6 gauge wire to the box about 3 feet away. I checked the ground and wire brushed it clean. Also the collet on the tungsten is good and tight. Attached is a video of what's going on .. Thanks John http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l745NxgOnGo&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Looks like you are getting your hi frequency to start it but after that your dead in the water. Starty checking all your connections, give a good look at your wa wa peddle as well. it is going to be something simple it always is. I had one once that the peddle was just dirty (inside) that did about the same thing.
Switch the current control to "PANEL" but keep the contactor on "REMOTE" Set the current selector to the mid point & give it a try. You will not have any current control in the pedal. Just the start / stop. This will isolate the problem. B.
I watched your video, the first thing you have wrong is polarity. You have it set for DC reverse polarity which is Electrode Positive. To weld mild carbon and stainless steel you need DC Straight polarity which is Electrode negative. After that you should check your machine out, if you have a contactor in the machine that regulates gas flow to the torch, it will not allow welding current if there is no gas flow. If you have no contactor and you are controlling gas straight off the bottle to the torch, then check out your control circuit. What I mean is that you could have a broken wire in your foot pedal cable or a problem with the pedal itself. Set the right polarity and try the machine with a set amperage of say 90 amps without the foot pedal ( switch both to standard) to see if that works.
Years ago i had a similar problem (IIRC) with my Dialarc and it turned out the points in the foot pedal were in need of attention. A little filing with a smooth file and I was good to go.
Thanks everyone for the ideas... I'm headed out to the garage to take a look at the pedal and connectors.. I will let you know how it turns out.. I really appreciate all the help.. John
Sounds like everyone has some good advice , I will only add that you should check the links for the input voltage, if that dialarc is like the one I used to own it could be set up to run on 208v - 480v? all the info should be on the door over the power cord
I checked the foot pedal everything was connected tight so I do not think it is that. I just had a new panel installed and 220v run so unless the electrician screwed me it should be on 220v. I know for sure its on its own 60amp breaker because that breaker shuts the plug off and nothing else. How would i check to see if the dialarc is wired for 220V and not 440v. I know when I plug it in the spark jumps across the gap. I am afraid my only option is to take it in and have it looked at. Which will happen Monday if I cant figure anything out on Sunday.. thanks every one for the help.. I am really bummed that it did not fire off on the first run.. but I am confident that it will run eventually. Thanks again John
A recuring problem with the Miller peddle is that the wire that is attached to the wiper arm in the foot control fatigues at the bend and breaks inside the covering. Shorten up the cable and re-attach the connectors. One of these days I am going to switch over to Millers wire-less peddle to eliminate this sort of stuff.
Go to the Miller welding web site and download a manual for the machine you will need the serial number and model , the manual will show how and where you check the welder to see if it is set up for 240v or other.
All you need to do is go back to "PANEL CONTROL" with the current like I said. You are getting the HF spark. The spark stops & starts with the pedal. The fans run. You are getting 220 to the machine or none of that would work. If you still get no output, try a different range setting. B.
There should be a tag on the machine stating what input is needed. If its 440 that will be three phase. Look for that tag near the power cord.
bohica2xo. i tried what you are suggesting with same result. i tried every combination on the machine with every range setting. MrMike. thanks i downloaded the manuel as well. again i appreciate everyones help. john
John: If you get no output when the contactor closes with panel control, then the contactor is most likely the problem. Hard to say for sure with all the background noise in that video, but there should be a clunk when you step on the pedal. That is the contactor pulling in. The two standard failures are the amperage control in the foot pedal, and the contactor. Testing the welder with the panel control engaged rules out the foot control failure. Sounds like a bad contactor. They switch every time you step on the pedal, so they wear out. I have seen one machine that would not work after sitting for a long time, because of a spider. In the space between the contacts she had spun a big egg sac that would not let the contacts meet. It still clunked. Go here: http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php and download the manuals. Un-plug the machine, and pull the cover off. Grab your air hose, and clean it out good. Locate the contactor, and inspect the contacts. The can look a little pitted & still work, but sometimes they burn away completely. The other thing to check is the connections at the contactor. The continued slamming can sometimes loosen the screw terminals on the contactor body. Most of the machine works. Your HF is good. The spark gap is ok, the start spark would not be there if it was not. Main arc current is missing. That circuit is pretty simple. The manual should make it easier. B.
If all else fails, you can always try Arc Master just of a Beach St in Fort Worth. They know a good deal about the older, larger commercial machines. They are Miller bigots to boot. I bet they can help if worse comes to worse. Tony
Thanks, i am going to go over every recommendation one more time on sunday and see if it can get it to work. if not im off to Applied equipment here in Dallas. with it.. john
Here was the problem.. The line that electricity flows to the torch was bad!! Got a new one and works like a champ. I took the entire setup to Applied equipment in Dallas (shameless plug--no affiliation) i Didn't even have to take it off the truck.. Guy looked at it did some messing around and said your torch lead is broke.. Sold me a new one took it home got It all set up works like a champ.. Those guys coulda screwed me so bad coulda told me all kinda of things were wrong .. Nope straight up and works beautifully !! New customer for life. John
So, a video of the setup and working machine might now be in order. Show us your settings and weld a bead for us.
Do you have a stinger you could hook up instead of the torch to see if the machine even works? *edit * echo echo! Sorry, I just saw skidmarks reply above... Try that!
I had the same machine and if you ever loose your HF, contact me via PM and I have the info stored in links on my home computer and could post them up. Basically, I had to replace an old relay with a newer encased relay that Miller sells. Parts were cheap and it worked like a charm afterward. These are real good welders. I'd love to see what kind of beads yours will produce so post up soon!
I agree... I will be heading to the round up friday.. first thing when I get back.. I will post up a vid.. thanks everyone for the help! John
Here you go., just got back from the roundup motivated more than ever.. Here is a quick video of the welder in action. I am welding the seam of a motor mount backing plate that I cut a slit in to bend.. Now welding it back up.. I'll post up a pic of the bead in the morning I can not do it from my phone.. Have to get on the computer.. Hope fully get the motor mounts finished in the next couple of days. Cheers John http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cms1mHg6ls&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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