What to paint my firewall with?

I need to paint the firewall on my f100 today before I drop the motor and trans in. It doesnt need to be show quality or anything. What brand and type of paint.

 

Krylon satin black worked for me on my inner fenders

 

A quality semi gloss black that has some bite. SEM has good stuff. How much prep you do will make for a better looking job.

 

I like Dupi-color high temp ceramic, used satin black and went on real nice. Tough finish too I am always slamming screw drivers and **** against it and no scratch's

 

Well the thing is..the metal is kind of pitted and I have cleaned it the best I can. Still has alittle surface rust. Should I just use por15?

 

Just did my whole engine bay with por15 and turned out pretty good, takes a good beating too that stuff.

 

I think thats what I will do...I have a good amount of it

 

POr-15 is my choice get down to the bare metal make sure you wash it and etch the metal the prep is very important ! you will be happy

 

Well from what i have been told is poor 15 doesnt stick to really clean or baremetal very well

 

Well I hope the por 15 works and looks descent and presentable enough.

 

Yes Por 15 does not stick to clean bare metal. Not the best choice for good metal.

 

Agreed, Ford Black engine paint is awsome. What ever you descide, don't stop at the fire wall. Get wet-n-dry sandpaper and scotch brite pads. Spend the first part of the day preping frame and firewall and go spray crazy.

 

It sticks extremely well to clean metal ..... IF AND WHEN you use the prep, which is an etch. All you need to do is read the directions.

 

I used a wire wheel and cleaned the frame the best I could then used a foam applicator brush. It came out pretty good. I know I just cant use expensive or high glossy paint on the firewall because the metal isn't that great. I want to use something that doesnt have a huge or long process also not too pricey either. I need to get the firewall done asap so I can drop the motor/trans in.

 

POR stands for Paint Over Rust. They're trying to tell you something.

Bob

 

Try Krylon or Rustoleum Hammertone finish comes in a few dark colors and will hide the rust pitting. Hammertone is tough stuff and cleans up well!

 

For engine bays I like to use POD 27, POD stands for Paint Over Dirt the 27 is just because I like the number.

I have had good luck with duplicolor, but lately I have been using Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy. It comes in black, it is a gloss but I discovered a long time ago that gloss is easier to keep clean.

 

LOL!!!!!

POR-15 is excellent for painting over rust but a waste of money for painting on clean metal. It's also not a top coat. I'll only paint ch***is parts with POR-15 as the final finish, everything else gets a topcoat of something.

If I were you, if you have rust, get a tiny can of POR-15 for that then topcoat with any of the rattle cans mentioned. ...make sure to top coat it when the POR-15 is still tacky.

 

I've used Krylon 1613 semi-flat black on some OT muscle cars.. looks great.

On my '38 pickup I've used Eastwood Satin Ch***is Black. I had bought some aerosol cans of this stuff and it looks great, goes on easy, and is super tough. touchup is easy... kinda pricey at 14 bucks a can but will be great for the long haul.
Tom

 

I just got done painting my engine bay and firewall with Krylon "Satin Black" . Turned out Great ! Very Happy with the results .

Retro Jim

 

I used SEM brand for the 1st time today. Good stuff!

 

you need to top coat the por 15, you can use some of their top coat and spray it but thin it out first. You could also use spray can but it won't be as durable.

 

I would paint the top coat of the firewall the same color and brand as you -plan to paint the car body. Acrylic enamel with hardner is "bullet proof."

 

I've used Zolatone automotive paint. It's the same stuff used in trunks.

Elwood

 

I need something in a can.

 

Bingo!
it's all I ever use. I get it at Wall Mart for 3 something a can. I keep 2 cans in stock because they sometimes forget to reorder. The new cans have a 5th number but the last 4 are 1613. Absolutely perfect for inner fender panels. When I did my old 66 SS396 I paid 30 bucks for a gallon of the "correct' GM paint. I couldn't tell the difference and it is so much easier and cheaper to use.



It's great for frames, suspension, drive shafts and rear ends. I just degrease and wire brush the heavy rust off and shoot. I don't build cars for shows with mirrors under the car but if you look past my engine it is still clean looking.


I liked it so much that I spray bombed my whole car with it.

 

I really like that spatter paint you can spray it on nice and even but make sure it gets clear coated and sets up good! I did mine a few weeks back and when I was dropping the motor 2 nights ago I was beating and banging on it and it didn't even crack...Its not for every body but it really hides alot! Just spray it on thin enough to cover evenly and it won't flake off on you. But like anything the more prep work you do the better it will turn out! I used black with white specks but there are many other options including black on black!

 

Or just do like the PO did on one of my past projects, cover it with spray undercoating!!!! WOW, what a nightmare. It takes days with a grinder/wire wheel combo to get all that **** off. I shot it with Ace Hardward Semi Black after that and it came out real nice and durable too.

 

Zolatone with a clearcoat.

 

Did you use a primer under? If so what kind? Also do you think a completely black engine vay and black engine is too much?