been reading on people using computer cases, washers, dryers etc.. for making the floors on their rods. instead of going to buy a couple sheets of 18 gauge for my flat floor in my 64 chevy II. Why not just find some old washers, dryers, furnaces or whatever and use the metal from there. As long as it can be welded why not? I cut out the floor of my car only left the tunnel i ran a length of tubing from front to back to tie together the subframes. basically my whole floor would be flat besides the tunnel. I do not plan to bead roll any of it. There is no additional bracing in the floor. so i wonder if the metal will be strong enough for a floor? can that metal be welded? here is a quick diagram i drew up of what the inside of my car looks like right now without the floor.
I'm thinking most of that stuff would be thinner than you want for a floor. It will also be powder coated or possibly galvanized=pain in the ****.It might work,but I would suggest biting the bullet and go get yourself some 16ga. p&o steel. You'll save time and have better results.
i have a very large fridge i am about to throw out. wonder if theres any good metal in there? I dont mind grinding away the galvanized coating for welding.
Thats right, forgo the $50 for new, easy to work, friends wont call you cheap, sheet metal for the floor and spent the money on some really nice polished aluminum brackets for the motor.
I've always sourced old door skins, roof panels etc...but I have to admit, now that my latest project is at fitzees shop and we're using new sheetmetal...it really isn't worth the h***le to use old panels for simple areas. MUCH nicer and easier on the lungs AND tools to use new metal. That said...if you're looking for certain shapes etc, sometimes its much better to locate pieces from a different vehicle as you save time in fabrication. But for flat floors? Get sheet and beadroll it if you can. Also...don't forget to add bracing for the seat mountings. Bolting down to a flat sheet of anything is gonna be horrible to deal with when driving, and also unsafe if you have an accident. There have been a fair number of posts on here describing ways to add beads and shapes to floor pans without a beadroller. I'd bet if you did a search on "Floor pans" you'd find some hidden gems!!! Good luck and most importantly...have fun!
Don't be that way man! Honestly...I tend to AGREE with his at***ude towards recycling stuff...and don't give a damn about idiots with no imagination who couldn't build a car without a catalog and credit card if their life depended on it!!! It's just that in this particular case a sheet IS ultimately cheaper and faster. Done properly either way though...it wouldn't be any BETTER.
I part out a lot of cars so I have a pretty endless supply of junk hoods and roof skins and stuff to cut up to use as sheetmetal. I wouldn't mess with anything that was galvanized or powdercoated, or the wrong thickness though, never tried any appliances. There is a sweet tech article somewhere on doing "bead rolls" with a dead blow hammer and round rod, basically pounding it out on a concrete floor, I tried it and I was really impressed with how nicely it worked. If you're making floor pans and you don't have a bead roller, it's a really great option to give your pans some strength and it doesn't cost anything (unless you had to go buy a new dead blow hammer like me, $15). Worth the extra time for sure.
I've been cutting patch panels out of two roof panels off of a mini van of some kind. I got them on a pallet of goods from an unclaimed freight sale. I don't see a problem with re-purposing things. We could all cut down on waste.
Yeah...appliances have that baked enamel stuff that kinda splinters and flicks off when you bend it. I'm weary of it from a safety aspect. Always think I can FEEL it going into my eyes or something! You can get some great repurposed shapes and metal from s**** cars. Late model stuff is almost always too thin though...
Old appliance shell have their place as they are often made from AKDQ (aluminum killed draw quality) and that spec metal shapes really nicely. However, I think it it the wrong choice for floors, new or used. I agrre with those that recommend 16ga for floors. While beading is desireable for floors, if you don'tt have access to a bead roller, you can also have a sheet metal shop bend up some low height "hat section" -__- pieces and spot weld them to the floor in appropriate places. Also, use a 'doubler' (additional thickness of metal) in areas where bolts to frame p*** through or seats attach. Ray
I agree with what the populace is is saying but most have left out the obvious..pride. It is like having a new pair of pants and wearing old torn underwear. Do it right the first time.
I agree, I typically part out 50's and 60's cars so I don't bother with late model tin. A friend of mine had to make all new floors for his '55 Buick, was going to get a new sheet of steel, I gave him a '69 Chevy truck hood and a '62 Cadillac trunklid, made all of his floors out of that, didn't cost him a dime for steel and turned out really nice. The floors in my '62 Chrysler are made from a '68 Chevelle trunklid. Nice flat clean steel. Usually the lower lips are rotted off but I'm not using any of the steel from those areas so it works nice, less waste. Beat the bead rolls in with the hammer and round rod method, looks great and doesn't oil can.
if you dont do the beads in the metal you will need bracing! Without it you will have wasted your time !
Pride? Do it right!?!? I can't speak for anyone else but for me the "pride" would come from doing it yourself AND doing it properly. I can't see how the materials are sourced as being a part of the pride you feel in doing the job right. When I suggest sheet as the better way its only because it speeds up the job and requires less prep to get to the fab steps. Honestly...I feel MORE pride in taking old door skins and the like and making nice floor pans from them...because many people can't grasp the concept! Here, I'm simply looking at the job requirement, EG pan size and shape etc, and for me...in THIS case...it comes out to sheet being a better choice for the job. DON'T put the recyclers down man....not good!!!!!!
ive used re-purposed metal from time to time. Old appliances and computer cases would not be my choice. i got some sheets that were gunna be made into computer cases though and its good stuff and 16 gauge. I also used old shelving units that use 18 gauge. But a big project like that i would save time by buying new metal. Its just much nicer.
Most of the above sounds RedNeckEsque to me. my weekly metal work blog using new metal for new fabricated sections.www.themetalsurgeon.com
Most old washers, dryers, fridges, etc. are porcelainized paint, and it chips and cracks easily, so not the best chice for donor metal. I'd add a couple cross braces to what you have now, jut to give the metal more support.
You may be right but I have never seen any porcelainized and I have re-used lots of dryers, fridges and washers. My criteria is, "Is it the right thickness?" There too thin for floors
salvaged metal sometimes can be deceiving, once the coating is removed it is not as thick as you think. it is good to use it, but it may need reinforcements.
I did a floor repair on an OT Nova project and no kidding someone used repurposed baking pans "welded" and riveted in the floor. I told my buddy bring me ONLY new metal if he wants me to fix it, and have it take welds. I hit up my local s**** metal yard @.25lb for sheet metal, angle iron, etc. I say forget the appliances.
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