any rods runnin a trunk or oddly mounted radiator?

Actually I think the kid is thinking out side the box.

No fan in the drawing, I'm lazy. A screen over the mouth of the duct will keep the rocks out. It is obviously not drawn to scale and wouldn't have to hang down any lower than the exhaust system. You wouldn't have to have a custom radiator built, there are no doubt any number of radiators that will fit across the back of a tub.

I probably wouldn't use the frame rails to carry water any more than I would use them as fuel tanks, but that's what rust inhibitor is for right? A couple of copper lines with some rubber no hubs will carry the water just fine.

There is something that has been overlooked in the process though, you need a jockey pump to move the water to the pump on the motor unless your radiator is above the pump.

BTW this concept is currently being done on a T with a crank driven blower and the guy has had great success with it.
If the kid wants to run bare nosed he's going to have to be creative to cool it.

 

i dig your idea man,... im GONNA run bare nose, unless something goes horribly wrong... i dont think placement is as much of an issue as people think, and i sure as hell know it can happen... i also dont thjihk were talkin about taht much money here... i mean i do all my own work, so were talkin more sheetmetal, and more tubing than stock... i see the throttlers truck has it in the bed of the truck im sure, which is real cool... i dont see many people taht run them having troubles with water pump strength./... i sort of think i can run the stock one... and as far as why im runnin a straight 6, i just LOVE the look of em, got a flatty six in my sled already, so now a regular straight 6 is in order ..and they are realiable, lighter (****, HeLLA lighter than a flatheadv8, and more power to boot!), and i just plain dig the look... granted, i have been rethinking this cause open end might look funny with straight 6, but i AM gonna be runnin my frame underslung, so what ISNT gonna look funny! LOL... its all about doing stuff other people have done im sure, but ive never seen in combination... with rods, you can NEVER be original usually any more... i just wanna have even myself scratchin my head.. thanks for input guys, if i made bucket big enough, behind the seat is a KILLER option, wouldnt have to be that much room i dont think, less angle for back seat, tryin to make it not noticeable... soon as i get my frame and suspension together, i will start showin pics, and im thinkin of tryin to get a build up on ruffrodders.. but we will see... might wanna keep it secret, LOL... was dessigning pie cuts for frame work last night... im no kid, im 28 damn near, but its my first hot rod, ive only had sleds, and i want it to be NUTSO!

 

51ratt: I like this thread started by you! Lots of good information here for my own use. I'm planning to put the radiator to the trunk of my T-Tudor, pipes under the floor for Cad Flathead, some electronic water pump in the back (or a pair of them), two fans, a scoop and panels under the car (there's 16" kickup) and louvers punched to the rear wall. And all of this because I want a track nose...

http://photobucket.com/albums/y108/Karimix/T-Tudor/?start=20

Sorry for the messy "room for radiator" -picture!

Mika

 

project lookin WAY kool... i wanna plan this before i even get that far!... LOL

 

herse my idea sorry for the ****ty drawing, But basically the rad is leaned against the back of the the body, facing the road , and there is ductin with a scoops that feeds air into the rad then past a small electric fan then out the back this would reduce back pressure because the would be no out side air pushing back.

 

My daughter turns 33 this year, no disrespect at all but that makes you a kid.

I'm not a big inliner fan, at least not for my own personal ride, but I've seen a few inliners in hoodless rides and I really like the look.

Its not my wallet so lets think a little farther on this. No grill shell,means unobstructed view of all the working parts, also means you don't have to streatch the devil out of the ch***is to run the axle over the top (that's part of you plan right?)

Now add a little roots type blower hangin' it out in the breeze, moderat boost (say 8-10 psi) and you get a way different looking ride with a little more zot besides. Say a single 4 or a brace of 2s for fuel supply, the intake would be nuthin to make, be like a log intake only with a plenum wide enough to accomodate whatever blower you snag.

 

im diggin the behind the car ideas... but, in a rod that is ALREADY underslung, ALREADY gonna be channelled abuot 6", it will look goofy maybe with radiator there, keeping it out of the way of drive shaft and all.... ideas are GREAT, gotta figure out execution... heres sketch of back of car the way i figure it can work.. i think i shrank it too much.... DAMNIT! hope you guys can view it.... anwyays... still gotta figure this out, but i got time, i jst think about the cars ALL DAY LONG... iom workin right now, CANT stop sketchin ideas for this car.... gonna be kool as hell to me

 

didnt think you were disrespectin, just lettin people know im not some 17 year old kickin **** around for no reason... not really into blower for now, NO dough for that stuff... but i AM running underslung ch***is... so laef sprnig, and yes, axles will be on top of frame... and frame is 135" stock, so im thinkin i wont even need to shorten it (maybe out back)... but totally flipped 26 buick frame, with leafs all around (gota figure out shocks or something to go along with it, just dont like the look, and want it to be VERY plain, so maybe friction shocks, with I6 and lil tiny car, wont weigh anything anyways...)... i would have PLENTY of room to run radiator behind, or in front if front axle, just want seomthing different.. i REALLY appreciate all the ideas, this is why this site is cool (sometimes)

 

I couldn't open your bmp. Maybe you could change it to a jpg.

Channeling your ride doesn't pose that big a problem. Ya just gotta fudge some stuff around.
Its not the diestination its the journey.

 

PS.... LOVE LOVE LOVE teh idea of boost, but dont know enough about front mounting them,.... after car is built, maybe i will look into it though, its got me thinking

 

Here's one more picture of my forthcoming radiator mount. I hope such a big radiator and current of air with fans and pumps will keep the engine cool enough. We will see. I wouldn't mind to make some scoops on the roof or into the rear quarters. It would break "the trad lines"...

Mika

 

well, now that i look over things again, this frame is 150" LONG!!!! so its gonna need a lil trim, LOL..... thats LONG IMO.... but, maybe with the straight 6, it will be right, gotta see how it looks when put with stuff... also, running it underslung it needs to be longer than trad rod,... so hmm.... what do you guys think>

 

I think he's right guys. Hotrods are a pain in the ***. Why go to all the trouble. Lets all just go down to the honda store and get a civic with lots of trunk space and no radiator relocating to be done... All we'll have to do then is get a 'fart-bag' exhaust tip and a wing to show off our beloved trunk...

LP

 

right on, maybe i should trash the idea and build a new hyundai....

 

I ran a rear or trunk mounted radiator on a circle track car many years ago. I was trying for more rear weight. It was soon outlawed. You want a small hose. rember the size of a thermostat opening. I used 1.25 copper line with a thermostat. you must have a bleader valve on the engine t stat housing and one on the filler neck mounted close to the radiator. I used a corvette unit for the filler neck and the radiator {no one made custom aluminum radiators back then}.use water wetter,electric fans **** better than they blow.double clamp all connections,try to get as much air flow to the radiator as you can. I had my duct work mounted from the ground as it would work like a spoiler. seal good as it will direct more air to the cooling area. convergent ducts increase velosity{SP} and decrease pressure .insulate the area around p***engers and the driver.make sure that the rubber are in good shape and do not **** together. some cars have a dead area at the rear and air is stagnet{no flow}Mount some small streamers drive the car and have some one watch to see if they **** in or fly like a flag. good luck and I hope this helps.like i said this was over 25 years ago.

 

i think porkn****** is on to something here.
put the radiator on the p*** side and you'll have room for your battery ,and other mics. items behind the drivers seat.
still have room for a tunnel if needed.the mustang radiators are pretty narrow.
you could run the screen on the bottom of the scoop like was stated.
use the scoop as a shrowd for forcing air while moving ,and put a fan on the in coming side to help in traffic louver the back panel to let the air out the back of the car.i think you might have already said this was what you were thinking of but for some reason i thought you were building a full bodied car so i didn't get it.it would look cool on a modified to have the back panel punched out anyways.
as for rupture get some copper tubing and silver solder it together.if done right it will never leak and look kick *** where it is exposed.

 

Intelligent response.