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Grinding an axle for clearance?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dubbzilla, Apr 6, 2012.

  1. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian



    Born to be wild.
     
  2. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,947

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here are couple of pictures showing the Ch***is Eng arms compared to
    the yoke type. (I think the yoke type arms in the pictures are Speedway
    but they are similar in style to the Magnum arms).

    If you have to use bolt on arms, I have found that the Ch***is Eng arms work better with dropped original axles as those axles usually have less room inside the drop as compared to the manufactured dropped axles that are built with more room inside the drop.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    Unlike some trying to answer you here I know what your asking about.
    (it would be nearly imposable to bend that part of the arm)

    Grinding some clearance is no problem …. Id grind a little on the axle and arm or switch to the ones Rich shows above.
     
  4. ;) Thanks man!


     
  5. Thanks for the pics Rich!

    I'm still unsure what I'm gonna do, but I do like the **** tonne of clearance those ch***is engineering arms free up.

    I'll have to do some measuring and see if those arms are deep enough to get my tierod and draglink under my wishbones. The last thing I wanna do is spend another $150 and end up having to fix clearance issues with my wishbones.

    Are the tierod/draglink holes tapered on both sides? so you can put the tierod on the top or the bottom?

    Thanks for the spring info too Rich. I'm actually running 37-41 bones with spacers to fit the 36 axle. My model A axle just has a mild drop, 4" overall, and I'm pretty sure it will be OK. I'll just be running a little higher in the front than I wanted, if I decide to change the axles out.

    There's no particular problem with the 36 axle, or how it was dropped, it was done by a legit old school pro. The problem was that I wanted alot of drop, and my clearance issues are the result of me asking my axle guy to push the limits :)

    I'm gonna see what's what this weekend, dig some stuff out and decide what I'm gonna do.

    Thanks again guys.
     
  6. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,947

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The Ch***is Eng. arms are tapered from the bottom. They have the same overall drop
    as Speedway arms in the picture I posted earlier. The centerline of the tie rod ends up
    about 5-3/4" below the centerline of the 1/2" holes where the arm bolts on. Another
    thing to keep in mind is that '35-'36 wishbones have quite a bit more room under them
    as compared to other year wishbones.
     
  7. Updating with pics.
     

    Attached Files:


  8. Egg-zactly Rich, those are the only arms that work on my dropped axle. Easy solution for deeply dropped axles.

    Dubbzilla, just buy the CE units, grinding those arms or the axle is cheesy
     
  9. Fireant
    Joined: Feb 2, 2009
    Posts: 114

    Fireant
    Member
    from Texas

    I had the same issue with clearance. Like Rich I used the CE steering arms and it fixed the problem. However, it took forever to get them in.

    Good luck!
     
  10. Yeah I'm thinking cheesey too! haha. Just don't want to spend more cheddar :D guess I'm gonna have to.

    I can sell those arms I've got now or save em for a future project.
     

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