After cruising and the engine is warmed up when I go to shut the motor down if will want to sputter a few times like its dieseling. It doesnt do it all the time but occasionally it will. If I rev it up a little before I turn the key off it doesnt do it at all. Timing is set to 34 total with 18 initial. Motor runs at a constant 160 degrees in traffic. It does not detonate when you throttle it hard in 5th gear. I dont know what could be causing it. Anyone???? Here are the engine specs SBC 383 Stroker 9 to 1 compression pistions decked heads and block makes it 9.5 to 1 Vortec Heads milled to accept .600 lift Full Roller Hydraulic lifters. Air Gap dual plan intake Quick Fuel Hot Rod Card with 25 power valve 50,000 volt distributor Mutha Thumpr Cam Double Roller Timing Chain 5 speed manual GM 8.5 Rear end with Posi 3.73 Gears
Damn it, your right. I just copied and pasted my engine specs to make it easier. I'll fix that. Lol Thanks.
What is the idle speed? car makers used to fix "run-on" by using a solenoid that allowed throttle to close farther, and preventing "run-on", aka "dieseling". If the idle speed can't be set lower, then adding an anti-dieseling solenoid could be the answer. 4TTRUK
With the non-stock cam in it you may have the throttle blades open just a little further than ideal to get it to idle. As a result it may be pulling just a little fuel out of the main nozzles at idle which can pool up a bit on the throttle blades and make it want to diesel a bit when you shut it off sometimes. If you can, adding an idle stop solenoid might be a quick way to go without making any serious mods to the carb. It's energized when the ignition is on and gives you a new place to set your idle speed. Just make sure to back out the regular idle speed screw enough so that the throttle plates close completely when the igniton is turned off and the solenoid is not energized. The less air getting thru the carb, the less chance of it dieseling. The alternative to this is to just slightly adjust the secondary throttle plates so they're barely open at idle. Then back down the idle speed screw on the primary side. Ideally you'd want it to idle without having it pull any fuel from the main nozzles. Again, I'm not even sure if that can be easily done on this carburetor. If you decide to give this method a try, just make sure that it isn't pulling any fuel from the secondary main nozzles at idle or you'll be right back where you started.
I agree with these guys on the premise that you have everything else correct. 900 - 1000 Rpms shakes the truck, thanks mutha thumper.
A lot of people give the mutha thumper a bad rap. But I can attest it is the nastiest sounding motor I have ever built. It has a lot of balls too, I'm sure you get get a little more performance out of another cam, but I am completely satisfied with the thumper.
but I am completely satisfied with the thumper Except that I can't shut my truck off because it needs to idle at 1100 Rpms because my truck shakes too much a 900. Now I need an idle solenoid. Other than that ..... Just kidding & a little ball busting How did you correct the lack of low end power from your other thread? What did it wind up being
31, interestingly enough it had little of nothing to do with the motor. I used a Camaro T5 trans and a lakewood bellhousing. The lakewood is drilled to put the trans heads up instead of 17 degrees canter, I matched the trans with a s10 tail housing and mounted it heads up. What I didnt realize is that the trans mount bolt was hitting the clutch fork causing a erratic and sticky clutch. After I fixed it I am able to easily feather the clutch out without even giving it any throttle. Between that problem above, and setting the timing 34 total (I can run 36 without detonation, but I didnt feel any performance gain) the thing is pretty evil. I can gun it in 3rd gear and smoke the tires while still going 30 mph. Its ridiculous. Time for a mini tub after I save up for the TKO 600. Hey, is that your car in your avatar? That this is sick. Got anymore pictures?
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