Forgot that info. 1 sheet marine plywood/oak verneer, 1 gallon McCloskey Man O'War Spar Marine Varnish. After cutting, fitting and pre-drilling the holes, I sanded and several coats of spar varnish, brushed on. Follow the directions and be patient. A good spar varnish job is multiple layers, not a couple heavy ones. I sealed the edges and bottom as well. After installing I used black caulking at the edges and wheel tubs. 2 years and still looks like new.
You guys have some nice looking beds. I saw something a few years back on a particular wood from either South America or Central America. It didn't need any finishing because of it's high natural oil content. Looked really nice just wiping it down. Has anyone heard of that type of wood? I'm looking for something durable and low maintenance. Also, what type of woods are/were used in shipbuilding?
I do not have any pics but apitong is really durable and will look great with clear urethane on it or oiled...it also is from the Phillipines and is in the mahogany family . It is used in flatbed semi trailers and flatbeds...damn near lasts forever! Looks like teak wood but more dense and hard. look here http://www.trailerdecking.com/ Good luck
That's what I have in mind (or IPA). Someone said IPA is real heavy, but I need the extra weight in the back end anyway I don't want to varnish it, just oil it
The toughest tropical wood I use is purpleheart. With that wood and an oil finish instead of varnish, your bed would be nearly indestructible. Its color ranges from a deep rich brown to lavender. It is cl***ified as an engineering wood, it is that tough. No North American wood even comes close to it. I did a minor amount of carpentry in the tropics. To drive a nail in some woods, you have to first drill a pilot hole. Otherwise the nail just bends over.
+10 I used to work for a semi trailer builder and this is what we used. very dimensionally stable and tough as iron. DO NOT BURN IT INDOORS IT EMITS TOXIC G***ES.
Personally, I would use TEAK wood. Its not only beautiful but is what most boats and even early Navy ships used for decking material (all of the battle ships). It has natural oils that protect it from sun and water exposure and can allow it to survive without other treatment is preferred. - EM
I bought a sub-standard pine kit off ebay way back when and painted it flat-black... Layed them in the gravel driveway face down thenhad my son and his buds roll over them with their bikes all day... sanded the paint off and stained and varnished them to get this look. Cheap and FUN.
All you need is a tape measure, basic throw away handsaw, and a cheap electric router with a 1/4" bit, and some basic DIY knowledge, if you can build a car you should be able to do do this with ease,
Can you post a video of you using a cheap throwaway handsaw to rip those 6' long board down to the right width? That would be fun to watch.
I found this - good info http://www.mcilvain.com/applications/decking/ I've been reading some web info on tropical hardwoods, & I've narrowed it down to these: * Cocobolo * ***aru * Ipe * Teak Whatever I end up using, I will treat it with tung oil - no varnish or sealers. http://www.wood-database.com/wood-identification/
I dont have any pics of either, but my friend used boards from a black walnut tree that was cut down at his parents' house. He used to play in the tree as a kid. My dad on the other hand on a 40 IHC used some of that 1/4 inch beaded panelling stuff he got cheap at like Menards or someplace, lined the floor and the sides inside the box, no metal strips. It actually looks really good, much better than I thought it would when he told me what he did.
Ash was my choice too. The local Windsor plywood charged me $100.00 to size and notch them. Marine spar varnish on top.
Curt where did you get your spar varnish? I am having a hard time finding any in Edmonton. Windsor had some but it was satin and I would like gloss. I have found a few places in BC but they want $18 to ship a quart of varnish.
I thought about removing the strips as well, but they kind of protect the wood. I'm going to use s/s strips, & powdercoat the inside lower surface an antique white / ivory color to match my grille & headlight rings.
The south side Windsor (99 st.) had it in gloss but that's about 4 years ago. IIRC the brand was Sikkens and I think I put on about a dozen coats.
A 6 x 4 ft bed is only 24 bd/ft of material. Most of North America has unique local wood that will work fine and look good. http://www.gmcpauls.com/47-72_BedWood_Info.htm I cut mine on a table saw. I bought router bits but never used them. It is easy to do and easy to have great results. I took this after it was rained on. local Red Oak with pot***ium di-chromate chemical stain.
Whatever wood you choose, be sure to purchase from a dealer and be sure it has been kil dried or cured. Some woods take years to air dry. Local, fresh cut lumber from someones sawmill will be cheap, but will give you a fit to work and finish. As to a finish "spar" is the word to look for, either varnish or urethane as it has UV protectant. As for me, automotive high solids clear is much easier to use, it can be clipped and polished the same as the car. Cheap may not be what you are looking for.
This is my bed.... Haha but Cedar does have a very nice look with lacquer, This cedar is from south eastern Oklahoma and almost has a purple color to it. Very durable and long lasting also. Anyone in Texas has seen the old cedar fence poles lined along the old rural routes. This was custom made by a taxidermist.
I have not seen a truck bed done in Purpleheart wood although it's in my plan eventually. I saw the wood some years back but I am not too familiar with using it other than a UV protectant clear would have to be used to maintain the purple colour. http://ca.images.search.yahoo.com/i...b=13o8r1u5h&sigi=11e1pgd3n&.crumb=cigVRaOtul5
Thanks - Years ago we did a similar bed treatment only we did a thinned red enamel "stain" after sanding the black paint off, then the clear. Bed wood was original 60 or 61 pine from a C10 long bed that was in storage all those years and the other guy wanted oak - so it was free. It had a good look too. We cut it to length to use in a 63 short bed. I'll try and scan the photo in - it's from back when people got pictures developed.
No pictures but in my 34 I used curley maple, commonly called gunstock maple or tiger striped maple. I did my entire kitchen out of it also, if you want pictures of it PM me and I will get them. You can buy boards on fleabay.
I installed a bed from bedwood and parts about two years ago not exotic just oak with seven coats of automotive clear Jeff Major owner of Bed Wood and Parts was Great to deal with either Jeff answered the phone during the setup or he would call back personally this is something you don't see in todays world of make the buck and forget the service.
Tung oil is the stuff. Soak the ends in a bucket overnight in a 50/50 mix tung and terpenting, then flip them over and soak the other ends. Now brush liberally over the boards with the 50/50 mix, letting soak and then wiping. Finish off with 3-4 coats of 100% tung, hnd wiping and rubbing in between coats. If you ever get a scratch just sand down and re oil....it dissappears!
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