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Aussie 1930 Roadster Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Turns, Apr 13, 2012.

  1. Turns
    Joined: Jan 3, 2009
    Posts: 155

    Turns
    Member

    I thought I would start a build thread on here about my 30 roadster project. I have been working on it just under a year and have posted progress on our Australian hotrod site but thought I would dip my toe in here after a lengthy lurking intro to the HAMB.

    I have a fairly clear idea of what I am trying to build but we have tough rego laws and my abilities and budget alters things.

    Anyway, enough conversation and a little more action.

    In Australia if you intend full road rego, you need to use an original OEM chassis. I like Model A Ford roadsters and they have advantages when the body is on a 32 chassis. I can't afford a 32 chassis, so I started with a Model AA truck chassis that I thought I could shorten and modify. I like this chassis over the sedan Model A, as it has a 6 inch depth to the rail which will help with torsional rigidity.

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  2. RadRidesByDan
    Joined: Apr 9, 2012
    Posts: 29

    RadRidesByDan
    Member

    will be a nice platform to start with
     
  3. Turns
    Joined: Jan 3, 2009
    Posts: 155

    Turns
    Member

    Mmmm......pics worked:)

    The magic marker sitting on top of the rail is sitting at the 106 inch mark (from memroy)

    I needed a chassis jig or table to mount my project to securely. I had some 100x50x4mm RHS that I had set aside.

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    Cut up some dumbells as levellers for the table
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    First up to mount the chassis rails into the jig I needed to make sure they were straight and identical

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    I plan to run a 4 inch dropped axle at the front so I chose to step the rear of the chassis 6 inch

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    Here is the chassis loosely sitting on the jig

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  4. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,420

    captainjunk#2
    Member

    nice frame work so far , and a decent table to work on
     
  5. Turns
    Joined: Jan 3, 2009
    Posts: 155

    Turns
    Member

    I had never mocked up the parts I had been accumulating over the years so I thought it best to do it now. I only had the start of a body but wanted to start anyway.

    I threw the motor in to check it for size. The donk is Ford Windsor 351 out of a Mustang. I know they are pretty plentiful in USA and probably a bit borderline on the HAMB. I acquired the motor from a mate that was returning a favour so I sort of now love it. Before we removed it from the Mustang we took it for a testing run and it went like stink - has a few speed bits on it too.

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    As you know these windsor motors are long so I needed to see how this would all fit. I bought a Model A cowl (that was an 8 hour drive away:eek:) but I wanted to start with something solid. I needed to clearance the trans tunnel so it would sit over the motor. I only have clearanced it enough to get it on there and will trim it more accurately later.

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    Last edited: Jul 30, 2025
  6. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,411

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Crap, now I want an AA frame, too! The Z in the back is a hoot. Keep us posted, Gary
     
  7. Turns
    Joined: Jan 3, 2009
    Posts: 155

    Turns
    Member

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    I did a bit of research and it is common in Australia to fit a k frame to the rear of the Model A chassis to strengthen it. I went away from this and thought I would go with a X member. I was influenced by many factors but predominantly the fact that this is the way Ford progressed with the design of thier chassis.

    I ordered some 152mm x 50mm x 3mm channel for the cross member. Hope the metric stuff doesn't freak people out:rolleyes:

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    Drilled them out for exhaust clearance too.

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    I just needed to get a basic idea of where I was going with the chassis to be able to progress with the body. At this stage I only have a cowl and doors so I had a long way to go.

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  8. Dago 88
    Joined: Mar 4, 2006
    Posts: 2,434

    Dago 88
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Welcome to H.A.M.B.Turns. Looking good so far. What part of Sydney you at ?
     
  9. Turns
    Joined: Jan 3, 2009
    Posts: 155

    Turns
    Member

    Now that I was sure that the rails were going to stay where they were I thought I should start with the body work. Like I said I had a cowl and doors. I have always loved early roadsters. I thought I should have a good go at it and if I failed I could resort to a RPU or perhaps a boat tail rear using the bonnet of an old truck.

    I started with a steel frame layed out on the chassis rails that will become the floor sub structure.

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    The steel I was using is SHS 25 x 25 x 1.6. and to bend or curve it I used the pie cut and weld technique:eek: I don't know any rodders and I am not in the automotive game so I used methods that seemed wise at the time.

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    I used timber to prop up the rear rail that goes around the rear of the occupants - woring alone has its disadvantages.

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    I spent a lot of time getting this rail exactly where I wanted it. In comparison to a Model A the rail is probably 2 inches further back than standard. I got my measurements for a MOdel A right here on the HAMB:p

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    I cut some wheel wells out of MDF (wood) to be able to get a feel for sizing of the car

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    To get the shape of the rear of the car I printed out a pic of a 30 roadtser and enlarged the quarter panel. I used a quadrant system that I translated onto a timber template - hope this makes sense

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  10. thommoina33
    Joined: Jun 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,051

    thommoina33
    Alliance Member
    from australia

    wow, great start to the build.
     
  11. Turns
    Joined: Jan 3, 2009
    Posts: 155

    Turns
    Member

    I spent a ridiculous ammount of time getting both of these curved pieces identical either side.

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    I spent a lot of time looking at these too. These will dictate the shape of the rear alot

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    I needed a rear subrail to secure all this to the car. I used 50x25 RHS and fashioned it to be similar to Model A

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    A major milestone was reached at this stage and could see a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel - i may well just be able to do this

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    Around this stage, I had some spare folding from a job I did and bought a cheap english wheel to embark on some metal shaping. As I wirte this I look back and laugh at the world I was about to enter - so naive.

    Only a cheapy (HB equivalent) but I couldn't make one for the $$$

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    Tried a panel to see what would happen with my new found tool

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    Still got the panel but soon after became relegated to scrap:rolleyes:
     
  12. Turns
    Joined: Jan 3, 2009
    Posts: 155

    Turns
    Member

    Started to look at some other bits I had stashed away for the build. Seats are MG from 67. I wanted buckets, low backs and OEM fitment. I needed buckets as I am 6'2" and my wife is 5'2".

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    Gonna use a 48 Ford wheel and some guages from a 39 Mercury (I think)

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    I progressed further and made a bootlid frame and hinges. I left a good 4 to 5mm gap around the boot frame but this might not have proven very intuitive as the boot might not fit once the other panel steel is in place:eek:

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    Started shaping some sheet metal for the boot lid and tulip panel. FWIW these were my first attempts

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    Next I made some wheel wells. I used timber and routed a bevelled edge to it for its use as a hammer form
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  13. Turns
    Joined: Jan 3, 2009
    Posts: 155

    Turns
    Member

    Then I thought that i really needed to see where the bead line would run down the quarter panel - a very important line on a car like this. I used electrical conduit intially until it was suggested to me (from Aus rod forum) to use 6mm rod

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    From here I got a better 'feel' for the shape of the quarter panels. i bought some brown paper and made a template

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    The red things are magnets

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    This one ended up as scrap:eek:

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    Other side

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    I am doing this at the back of my work. i had a bit of a clean up and like this pic. Also built a wall to separate my hotrod skunkworks from the boring stuff

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  14. Turns
    Joined: Jan 3, 2009
    Posts: 155

    Turns
    Member

    Thanks dago88

    I live in Narrabeen but my build is at work which is Kings Park (Blacktown). I don't know any rodders but I know Stuart from Lone Star Body Shop that let me know who you are. I was quite taken with your blue roadster at the last Day of the Drags.:cool:

    Thanks for the positive comments so far. I will bring my thread up to date after lunch (hungry daughters)

    Cheers

    Turns
     
  15. Great work Turns, looking fantastic!

    You have figured out how to post photos so you are already well up on me!
     
  16. Turns
    Joined: Jan 3, 2009
    Posts: 155

    Turns
    Member

    Thanks cadiclubcoupe. I use photobucket and find it fairly easy once you get the knack.

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    Once I had the body mocked up to this stage my build took a big turn. I was at the stage where I needed to roll some beads for the quarter panels. I thought I would have a go at making a bead roller as the cheaper, affordable bead rollers didn't really offer the correct size bead dies in thier kits. I got an email from an Australian hotrodder that is a sheet metal master that generously offered to help me roll some beads in his workshop. He quite correctly identified that I would probably get bogged down on the building of a bead roller. His name is Stuart from Lone Star Body Shop.

    I prepped both LHS and RHS quarter panels ready for the hip beads to be rolled

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    Stuart has many bead rollers to choose from with differing dies. Here is a pic of the bead roller we used. This bead roller is manufactured ny John Heine an old Aust machinery manufacturer. This started life out as a slitter (for round cuts)and has been modified for bead rolling - top tool

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    Stuart rolled some beads into my wheel wells too

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    Also taught and showed me a lot about metal shaping which I am really enjoying. This scrap piece was him showing me how to use the shrinker and stretcher. I now consider him a good mate of mine

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    Did a bit of a mock up

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    Next I welded some 80mm strips to the wheel wells to give it some tub - most of it will be trimmed off later

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    Hopefully this pic shows indexing marks I used to be able to measure a line as to where the wheel well meets the quarter panel

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    Fits nice

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  17. Turns
    Joined: Jan 3, 2009
    Posts: 155

    Turns
    Member

    Next i had to prep the quarter panels for the beads that run along the sill from the door and over the wheel arch. This new bead forms a junction with the bead we rolled earlier. I needed both quraters identical and allowed a 40mm strip a waste for the bead roller guide or fence to follow.

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    I stuffed up so had to tack weld a thin strip to give me my needed 40mm guide strip

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    These are my panels ready to go and visit Lone Star - you can see the tacked on 'fix'

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    On discussing it with Stuart we decided to form the beads on his Pullmax machine. He made up some custom dies to do this. Once we formed the new beads, where they meet with the other bead bacme a jumbled mess - he sorted that out with a combo of shot bag, post dolly and of all things a socket clamped in the vice.

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    Here it is mocked up on the car

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    Well that is where I am upto with my build. It doesn't seem like much in a quick build thread but there is 10 months solid work. I am working on it tomorrow and can't wait:D

    I am bit nervous exposing this build on the HAMB but though American input would be beneficial and help me build a better car.

    Cheers Turns
     
  18. I'am subscribed!! Great work, keep us posted!
     
  19. jfg455
    Joined: Apr 22, 2011
    Posts: 170

    jfg455
    Member
    from NH

    Wow! I'm in. no need to feel ashamed about what you are doing. Looks like you are definately on the right track!
     
  20. I will figure the pic posting out - I know its not too hard. My build is slow so by the time I need to post a pic, its been so long I have forgotten how!

    Sounds like you have made a good friend there in Stuart, he has helped you do some great work on your car. Must be why you recommended him to me on "ahem" another rod site, maybe one closer to us than this one. You commented on my post about Newcastle panel & spray painters :)

    Keep up the good work, look forward to more updates!
     
  21. GaryB
    Joined: Dec 19, 2008
    Posts: 3,529

    GaryB
    Member
    from Reno,nv

    that is one fine job,no reason to be ashamed. subscribed !
     
  22. Beau
    Joined: Jul 2, 2009
    Posts: 1,884

    Beau
    Member

    I learned the grid method for doing murals and blowing up photos by hand. Great idea!



    No doubt! I love the look. The F1 cros would go right in too.
     
  23. 29bowtie
    Joined: Nov 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,234

    29bowtie
    Member

    Keep us posted, incredible build.
     
  24. reefer
    Joined: Oct 17, 2001
    Posts: 787

    reefer
    Member

    great work Turns, can`t wait for the updates.....
     
  25. 5wcoupehunter
    Joined: Oct 20, 2007
    Posts: 964

    5wcoupehunter
    Member
    from FLORIDA

    Awsome, great thread.
     
  26. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    Wow nice work!! I love these kind of builds with so much hand made body panels, keep it up!!
     
  27. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 799

    Little Terry
    Member

    Fantastic. Nice to see you making something out of nothing.

    Keep the updates coming. I am learning a lot from the extra info you are sharing too.

    LT.
     
  28. tmf
    Joined: Jan 17, 2006
    Posts: 207

    tmf
    Member

    Nice work Turns. Stuarts a good guy very good on the sheet metal.
     
  29. Retroline
    Joined: Aug 20, 2002
    Posts: 1,125

    Retroline
    Member

    Great metalwork on this build, this is coming along nice.
     
  30. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 4,215

    48fordnut
    Member Emeritus

    the way ford should have built it.Good work.
     

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