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Door alignment 1929 Ford Roadster

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tor, Apr 15, 2012.

  1. Tor
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 77

    Tor
    Member
    from Norway

    I have lately been working on the door alignment on my 1929 Ford Roadster and after some shimming with little success i have decided to get some new body to frame wood mounting blocks since the original ones have seen better days.

    Is the "body mounting block rubber pad set", an aftermarket item or did Ford use them, do i need it?

    The body to frame wood from Brookville is $99 and from other shops a kit is usually $35 to $40. Is the wood from Snyder or Mac's of a different quality and fit, than the Brookville?
     

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  2. I never saw rubber under the original blocks. not to say may some may not. I've always just used the welting for the frame as the pad, anti squeak. Mac's is good.
     
  3. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,570

    oj
    Member

    I believe welting lasts longer. For model 'a' parts there is a high quality restoration shop in our state of Maryland, it has higher quality than macs and much nicer people. It is called Brattons' and you can order on line, if you call a little old lady will answer and if you have a question she'll set down the phone on go get a guy out from the shop and you will be talking to an expert.
     
  4. charlieb66
    Joined: Apr 18, 2011
    Posts: 549

    charlieb66
    Member

    I doubt there is that much difference in the body blocks, they are only wood and unless you are 10 years old and live, and keep the car until you are 90, you will never know the difference. The rubber shims are used to raise the body at a certain block to align the doors and the hood. The webbing goes on the frame before the aprons and front fenders to stop squeaking.
     
  5. onekoolkat1950
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,866

    onekoolkat1950
    Member

    Model a roadsters with poor fitting doors usually have a weak sub floor,a sagging frame center or need the cowl shimmed.mac's sells good blocks and rubber.be patient it's tough to make the doors work properly.
     
  6. Tor
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 77

    Tor
    Member
    from Norway

    Thanks for the answer. The rubber is probably some aftermarked stuff to shim the body. I rather use metal shims for that.
     
  7. Tor
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 77

    Tor
    Member
    from Norway

    The former owner had the body off and straigthened the frame. The sub floor looks 80 years old and might sag some. I have worked with shims under the cowl and the door hinges, but could not get the passenger door good. I did not want to work on the other side, since the drivers door is fine. But the strength in the cowl with the gas tank attached makes the cowl move little when i work on only one side. So i might have to shim both sides.
     
  8. onekoolkat1950
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,866

    onekoolkat1950
    Member

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