Yesterday I ran down to my local Pull A Part and copped this ultra clean '84 JAG IFS, Pwr Steering Pump & lines, Rack, belts and all of the brake lines for $150! I've shaved off the front ch***is mount and the motor mount, so that the install doesn't look like an after thought and look factory to those who don't know that these cars didn't come with rack and pinion steering in 1954!!
Got started by measuring 11" from front of the Top Hat frame to the front of base to the JAG IFS next to the top of the lower control arm, since I shaved off the lower front JAG ch***is mounts. This will put the wheels directly in the center of the wheel wells instead of slight foward as they do from the factory. Next I measure from the side of the frame, where the factory notch cutout is, and got 4.5" or 5" to get the JAG IFS centered across frame. Finally cut and fitted the cardboard mockups before I find somebody to weld in the steel plate to get it all boxed in, because all I have is a Lincoln 3200HD MIG120 welder with the gasless flux wire. Who knows if the JAG IFS is made from 12 or 10 gauge or 1/16" steel I've seen most guys on the HAMB whose simply bolted the IFS to their Top Hat frames. Hey Guys...can I get by with the MIG120 to weld the JAG IFS in place or call my local mobile welder, at $70/hr, to come to the house and permanently attach it??
Only thing I can see is make sure you pay attention to the caster angle. The Jag crossmember may not necessarily sit flat against the bottom of the Chevy frame. It may be correct, but just check that as i did not see any mention of it. I installed the exact same crossmember as you in my 53 GMC pickup, out of an 86 Jag. I also cut off the stock Jag front mount extension pieces. I had to space the rear of the crossmember down a bit to get the right caster. You can also cut up into the frame to put the crossmember closer to the frame top surface if you want it lower. As for welding it in. Best to use a bigger welder, but flux core will have better penetration and could do the job. How good are your welding skills??
After a year of flying by the seat of my pants my skills are getting pretty good. When I welded the 1 in my '57 3100 I ground a nice angle to the 1/8" plate and simply turned down the wire speed and turned up the heat on my welder so that I got good penetration. I think it turned out pretty good, once I ground the thick welds smooth. I did use my magnetic level to check it and it looks pretty good, well at least almost perfectly level.
Finally got the JAG IFS rough welded in and cleand up the thick weld!! Wooo I'm tired!! Tomorrow...time to get the spring cut to get that killer stance. When I get some extra cash I'll be dropping the airbag system to get that Caddy smooth ride.
killer, jags have the same bolt pattern i here, clean and easy install. the hard part is finding the jag to cut the front off of. good score and nice job!
is the track width or hub/drum the same width, or close?? how much did it lower your car compared to stock? thanks man, wheels a turnin!
Today I cut 2 circles out of the springs, for the 4" drop, to get that sick stance and will post the pix tomorrow. i think that it's about an inch total more narrow from bearing cap to bearign cap than the stock drum set up, but is slides right in, if you make 4.5" between the JAG coil pocket and the frame, and you're in there!!! The only thing that you'd have to decide if you're gonna cut off the front frame mounts or go for the shaved look like I did here. Once i get everything ****oned up i'll finish cleaning up the rough cuts and clean weld all the seams to make it look like that is the way that the car came in '54.
Got the JAG 4 piston calipers painted Banner Red. MAN...I love this color!!! Now I just need to decide if I'm gonna paint the car the same color or go suede black with the brushed stainless bumpers???
cut off the front frame mounts??? are you talking the core support/ bumper bracket ends of you original frame??? does not make sence, sorry. would love to see some pics. how did the car sit with uncut springs and weight over them. just curiouse on what is the best way to mount it so i can get the frame down. notching the frame maybe?? thans, keep it up!
I cut off the 2 arms that mount to the front of the jaguar under carriage, the 2 circle bushings all the way back to the main body of the cross member, that way the only thing that is left is just the exposed lower control arms. Before i cut the 2 circles out of the coil springs the top of the wheel opening was at the top of the tire. There was absolutely no travel in the suspension when you jumped down on the top bumpers to test the suspension travel, but once I cut out the 2 circles out the suspension travel is very supple. So as soon as I finish making the mounts for the shocks and put the swaybar back on the rebound on the springs will be perfect. With the 2 circles cut out of the springs the tire is 2" under the wheel arch. I haven't taken any pix of the new profile because the front tire is flat and I haven't installed the swaybar yet.
Just scored a tilt steering wheel from a '89 GMC S15 that had a 4 speed manual installed. notched the plastic cover so that it fits flat against the front and under dash. The shaft is way too long for the JAG IFS but it perfect if you're using the MII crossmember in your 49-54 Bel Air. I had to cut 3" out of the housing and 4" out of the shaft to get it fit close enough to weld on the 1999 G20 Van DD to single D steering slip connector and the lower connecting portion if it's steering shaft. the angle looks like it might cause the steering to bind a lille when I turning, but I'll find out next week. Tell me what y'all think. does the angle on that slip connector too sharp???
Damn "olkars ! " U scored gooder than **** !!!!!! I pd about four times that fer mine. Do You Know how (what years ? ) many years used the suspension like you have ??? The build shown several times on Hamber, showing intallation in F150, shows one lik'a yours..........Mine is later and mounts ARE different. Also, whats your thoughts ,As mentioned ........on camber "Concern " ? Thanks for the posts, And Pics. Happy Motoring Starts at The ESSO SIGN...................good day, every DAY ! Smiley Smoke II
Thanks Ray...I thought so too. I'm thinking another 2" or so After I make some brackets to mount that steering column IMA try to fill the power steering pump resevior this week to see if it'll bind when i turn it lock to lock.
Make the steering angle a lot less. Shorten the column or have the column come out lower on the firewall. It seems like it is up high now or something? This pic does not show real well, but in my 53 GMC, I used the stock Jag intermediate shaft and then just bought a U-joint with the GM column end to mate with the Jag shaft end. My angles are not bad at all. Sorry this pic does not show the angle as good as when the pieces are connected, this is all I have right now for picture. The column is actually back a couple inches now that it is final installed. The Jag shaft is just as removed from the Jag donor, I did not change the length at all.
Don't worry Smokey...mine looked just like this before I cut all of the mounts off!! If yours doesn't look like this 1 than it's the newer '87-up Jag IFS and it is completely different than the old 1s. it doesn't have the 4 piston brakes and it is strut mounted.
I couldn't see the picture that you attached. I thought that it looked kinda high too, but if I lowered the angle it would it bind up even more. When I installed the same set up on my '57 3100 i didn't get this sharp angle at all. i think that ima just put another universal in between the GM intermediate shaft and call it a wrap!
Can you notch the firewall, lower the colume in the new opening and tilt the steering wheel down so it doest look like a bus? loose the mordern wheel if you can. I lowered mine an inch which helped out the angle of the turning joints and gave me more leg room inside ( non ajustable wheel ) Godspeed MrC.
might need to drop the front of the column down towards the pedal to straighten out the angle. the tilt column will compensate for some of the angle too. thanks for the pix!
Thanks Mr C! I'll try that notching idea before I make the permanent mounts for the column. It's a good idea. do you have a pic of how and where you notched yours??? IMA try to use my original '54 steering wheel on it once i finish restoring it. Will it fit or will I need to modify the steering wheel so that it mates up to the column correctly, without looking too much like an after thought??
Unfortunately the column is sitting on top of the pedal now, probably because the pedal came out of a Monte Carlo instead of a S10/S15??? I've got to take it down to Pull A Part on my next trip to see if I can find 1 that's at least 3" longer.
pick and pull hell, build it son! ****py pics, I know, I lowered mine an inch you may need more, I have seen some exit thur the toe boards before, I used the s-10 pedal and brake swing ***embley I attached it from the dash to the firewall, I had to make the brake pedal come down on the left side (driver side) of the colume then dog leg over to the right side ( p***enger side ) of the colume to be in the correct position. I also added about 6 inches to the lenth of the pedal to compansate for the bend. I cut the pedal in half, v-ed the ends and welded and extension in the middle then plated the intire pedal arm and even drilled some hole through the plate to plug weld it as well as weld the entire lenght of the arm, brakes isnt somewhere I would take any chances, I know it soulds like **** but it turned out very nice, I also cut off the foot pad, corrected the angle to better fit my foot, and added a small gussett to the pad since I off set it about 1 inch to the right. I mesuresed the pedals on my DD the distacne from gas to brake was 3 inches and the brake pedal height is 3 inches infront of or higher than the gas pedal. Once I new that I built my new brake pedal to be in the correct locations. Keep in mind, changing the lenght of the pedal may cause problems like hitting the floor board before you max the stroke out of the Master cylinder and it changes the ratio of braking, my brakes are not touchy they feel strong and safe, Because the added lenght to my pedal was used ladderally ( the dog leg bend) as opposed to making the pedal over all longer. I hope this helps some. Godspeed MrC. Godspeed MrC.
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