Started making panels for this project about a year ago, and got a bit busy and lacking room I tucked it away for later. Well someone's put a deposit down so it's time to get back to it. Here's the Quarters, our roadster's didn't have a bead around the wheel arch a bit easier to make! Cheers Steve.
Next on the list is door skins, cut a pattern and wheel some shape in. Next fold the beltline bead. Then pull it back why'll still it the panbrake to form the bead. Then put through the pullmax to finish shape of the beltline. Tip the edge all around And that's the door skin made, the top edge at the front where it meets the cowl has to curve up, but I will make that when I attach the skin to the frame. Cheers Steve
I started with a bitza project that some guy had on evil bay. I didn't take the pickup bed or the holden v8. The cowl was good, but the frame was a bit rusty and had to be repaired. Cheers Steve.
Woah - jeez! Not much to go on then. Enough to get the thing registered as a 34 Chevy at any rate. Are you copying another car body, or scaling off photos or something? Outstanding metalwork BTW.
Thanks guy's, I did the metal work on a original a few years back and copied it and made templates. I'm going to make a buck this time of the rear section as I have made a couple of bodies and several quarters over the years and I still have a couple of cowls and frames that I have collected over the years. I have a 33 that I want to keep and build as a mild 40's-50's custom. Cheers Steve.
Next thing to do was the door frames, the original ones are mostly wood so I have a form to make door inner shape and fold the extra section in the panbrake. Cheers Steve.
Thanks Stinson, I have templates from an original roadster I did the body work on years ago, but I always like to see another chev roadster,australian roadsters are a bit different to US ones like the australian fords where a bit different to . This is the 3rd chev roadster I have done. Cheers Steve.
Thanks stinson1082,cactus1,hammeredrods, i've done some more work on the 34 but hadn't got around to post progress. I have made a decklid skin and frame but haven't ***embled them yet, I tried a tube frame this time. The frame is now boxed and tube X member is in,and started on the floor substructure. Just have it held together with cleco's at the moment. Cheers Steve.
I have made some more progress over the last few days after going backwards for a day or two after the guy decided he wanted to channel the car after I hung all the panels So I cut it apart and ditched the inner sill panel and started over. I made the first floor panel for a change of pace. First marked it out and layed down some swage lines for strength and looks. Used a trimmed piece of tubing to finish the ends (nice little trick I picked up somewhere) Made a hat section brace to stiffen up the centre and spot welded in Then s***ch welded floor panel in with MIG. Also made B pillars and welded them in. Used wood form and tipped the curved edge with skateboard wheel in beadroller Cheers Steve.
Wow this is great well thought out work! I love threads like this that you can take some notes and pick up a few tricks. A couple of things make me think you've done sheet metal work as a trade? Is this correct? If not your really well self taught.
I'm a fitter ,machinist by trade but I have done a panel beating co**** at night school many years ago. I do the metal shaping and fabrication for a living these days in my small shop , building a hotrod or 3. Cheers Steve.
I lost the plot a bit with the chev roadster after I cut it loose and started channelling it. So I cut some strips of sheet metal and used cleco’s to fix the panels in position. Then I started making parts for the sill frame work, I use heavy SHS tube for the sill swage that I bent in the press to a template. Used a profile gauge to get the right shape for the swage and used a disc sander to make the profile on the tubing Cheers Steve.
The running gear turned up last week for the roadster, thankfully I talked him out of the world industries big block that he wanted to put a blower on. There going to put that in a 67 SS Impala now, and we have a nice healthy 350 small block except it has a t400 behind it so I have to change the gearbox cross member. There was a m***ive F truck 9" 31 spline LSD diff as well which I though would be to wide , but I checked wheel backspacing and width of the body and it worked out to have 40mm clearance each side with the channeled 34 body which should be good clearance for cycle guard brackets.I started making frame work for the deeper sills but haven't welded them in yet. Cheers Steve.