Hi, I am just about to mount my tremec 5 speed in my 55 chevy and I had a couple questions for some of you that might have been down this road before. The mounting set-up I have right now has the front motor mounts right on the front of the small block and the transmission mounts are on the dog ears of the bell housing. It has worked like this for a log time and I have never had a problem. When I bought the tremec I was told that because it is heavier then the muncie I should buy the rear cross member kit with (which I did) so I was wondering if I remove the dog ear mounts on the bellhousing and I install the rear cross member with the front engine mounts. Is this right and will this mounting system work? I was thinking of getting a side engine mounting kit but I really don't think that I will need it? Just want to get some ideas and advice before I move on from here. Thanks Jason
So I could just use the bellhousing mounts and the front mounts on the small block and that would be ok with the Tremec? Has anyone just done this? J
I have seen tri-fives where the original mounts are kept (front and bellhousing) and then the rear crossmember is added. But if you remove the bellhousing mounts, you'll need to convert to sidemounts on the engine.
I ran an aluminum front plate and a poly trans mount. On a 55 chevy 468 dart heads 8-71 dyers 10 inch slick for years. Without prob on the street.
So I could have three mounting points then with your suggestion! Front mounts, bellhousing moiunts and rear cross member mount?
This is some good info! The only difference is I am not using solid mounts on the front. However I did buy new front energy suspension polymounts for the front and I am planning on installing these. J
I had front tri five mounts on a SBC and a T5 trans mounted to crossmember. Drove the car a ton of miles without any problems. As far as a T5 being heaver than a four speed, I don't think so.
I have just put a T56 in my '55' chevy and I had the original setup that you have now when I pulled the sbc and 3 speed overdrive. I installed the side mounts (welded or bolted on will work) and installed engine with transmission into car and made a rear transmission cross member. My crossmember is just a 1 1/2" square tubing with welded pad for transmission mount. I cut out the old side bellhousing mounts to make it easier to tuck headers up higher. I believe the T56 is larger than your transmission so I had to open up floor area a little, but not much. It should be the same process for your installation and there are all kinds of bolt in engine and trans mounts if you don't weld. I really like the overdrive tranmissions.
Which mounting possibility won't twist much? Cast Iron is right man It was just what hurst driveline conversions told me that it was heavier. Not sure I guess it might be just a little. J
if you don't want to chenge over to side eng mts, you should be fine adding a rear x-member as long as all of the mounts have the same 'give'....you can have problems if just one mt. is poly. I have a '55 w/ stock ft mt, bellhsg mt & trans x-member. Ran it on the street & even put slicks on it a few times w/no problem....
I just hung my T-5 off of the factory cast iron bellhousing. No mount on the trans. Been there for about 10 years of every day driving and the yearly drag strip flogging. No problem with the trans although I'm on my third rear end...
I strongly advise not to have a three mount system. If for instance you drove over a curb, something has got to give with a three-point mount system... probably an ear on the Tremec, possibly a cracked bellhousing. If you only have front mounts and a transmission rear mount, you create the rotisserie effect...too much rocking. Side engine mounts and rear transmission mount are the best solution. I installed a TKO600 in my '56 DelRay only using the front mount and factory cast iron bellhousing mounts with no issues. I had Tremec locate the shifter to the center location to clear the bench seat. Got a cover from Ecklers for the floor hump and used nutserts to secure it.
Thanks for the info fellas. Looks like I got some definate options here! Cerberus do you have a pic of the bottom of your car with the mounts showing? J
Either step up to side mounting the engine, along with a rear trans crossmeber, or keep the front and bellhousing mounts, and add a rear trans crossmember (I'd do the latter under your circumstances). At the VERY LEAST, IF you do go with a side mount/crossmember setup, do it using your current mounting system and adding the crossmember first; to get the clutch linkage geometry right. I've had a ton of tri-fives over the years, six cylinders to BBC, and you should check into ChevyTalk.Org or TriFive.Com for "been-there-done-that" opinions. Butch/56sedandelivery. P.S., my 56 Delivery has front mounts, stock type bellhousing mounts with an old R.C. Industries cast steel scattershield, AND a rear trans crossmember.
Here's two pix. Had to modify the original bellhousing with a hack saw to get the starter to fit. Only took about one square inch off the bottom corner.
I fabbed this enlarged tunnel in a 55. The owner mounted the Tremec on the original bell housing, with a trans mount. The the tunnel is welded in with a removable cover plate. The rectangular hole allows pulling the trans back to remove it with the bell housing still mounted.
If you need a chevy bellhousing with sidemounts, there's a 1955/56 one on ebay that would give you what you need.
Thanks man! I got one that is already in the car. Just need to still get the rear end in this week then it is tranny time! J
I spoke with Keisler last year about this. According to the Keisler rep, they will not warranty the transmission unless it is used with engine side mounts and a cross-member. The bell housing mounts are not recommended. You might want to give them a call.
I'm going to be swapping a Tremec TKO600 in to my 55 soon, so this discussion is of interest. I already installed side mounts, and I'm using a Lakewood scattershield, so that stuff is behind me. I'll be interested to see what shifter position works best. I have bucket seats, so I can stand to have the shifter a little further back than you'd have to have it with a bench seat. For what it's worth, I took a little different path: I didn't want to have to change my clutch disc to accomodate the Tremec. I have a nice 12" McLeod 10 spline clutch in the car now, and I'm not sure I could remove the scattershield without pulling the engine to replace the clutch. Liberty Gear in Taylor Michigan was able to build a 10 spline input shaft and install it in the new Tremec I ordered from them at a cost of $305. It took nearly 3 months to get the transmission, but it's here now, so I'll see how it works out. In hind sight, I probably should've just stuck with the 26 spline stock offering (which is stronger anyway), but that's water under the bridge. I'll update after I install the new trans. Like all things automotive, you never get away just changing one thing...it always calls for a bunch more changes to accomodate the first one. In this case, I need to change the 4.86 third member to a 3.70. And while I'm doing that, I should re-narrow the rear axle just a tad, and while I have all that out of the car, I should replace the 27-year old Mickey Thompson rear tires