Finally got to some time to work on this again. Trying to remove the valves from the heads, but no luck. Even got one of these fancy tools: It doesn't even move the springs a bit. Seems like all the force applied goes into bending the frame of the tool. Anything I can do to fix this? Also got some old motor cycle parts I didn't need anymore traded for an Edelbrock intake: And also got the Distributor back from Bubba's Hot Rod Shop. Thanks again, Jim! Also got the Starter and Generator rebuilt.
Retainers stuck to keepers....normal. Hold a bit of tension on the tool, then tap down on the exposed edge of the valve spring retainer. A light tap should do it. Some guys are brutal and don't use that tool to take them apart.. They place a deep socket over the retainer and smack it hard with a BFH. The keepers spit out and you're done It sometimes nicks the sides of the stems from the keepers digging in.
huh? talking chevy sbc? anyways, the keepers are stuck, he does not need to buy a tool for a sbc. Just a tap from a hammer.
Oh, I see. I guess the difference is that my rockers are on a shaft, and yours are bolted to the stud. Gotta love the HAMB, would've taken me a while to figure out how to get them loose.
I got these worn out spots on my rockers: Can I just grind them flat again an use them, or do I need new ones? This one is probably the worst. They are not all like that...
I was trying to come up with a list for the machine shop: Heads: *new hardened seats (exhaust for sure, intake if needed) *new guides *grind head surface *check valve springs *open up oil return holes? what size? Block: *bore and hone cylinders (oversize) *check and grind main bearings and cam bearings Balancing Anything important that I'm missing?
Thanks Dave, I had that in mind, but forgot to put it on the list. Still need to get the crank out, but I want to be prepared.
Almost gave up all my hope. But yesterday I finally got the pistons free and the crank turning again (with a little help of a home made tool and a 4ft extension). Was able to remove all the flexplate bolts an take the hydra off. Now it's time to pull the main caps and get the crank out.
Call Tony at Ross Racing Engines and get 8 of everything His bellhousing that allows you to connect a muncie 4speed to the 324 is a bitchen piece, I have one.
You know that's right! Seeing these show up at my door today already helped: They are taller than I expected. Hope I won't have any clearance issues. How could they call this a speed part, when it's ten times heavier than the original one I have already been talking to him... Now I need to get the machine shop to do their inspection, so I know what to order. I'm planning on reusing the Jetaway in the Olds, but a 4 speed would be awesome in my truck Looking to rebuild the carbs in the mean time. Also still waiting for my new valve covers to come in.
not necessary to keep the valves in order, all the bits and pieces need to go to the shop with the heads, valves, springs and retainers you may need to replace everything but the retainers anyway do not grind on the rockers the rocker assembles can go to a shop like Delta Camshaft, if yours aren't too far gone they can clean them up nice, reasonable and fast turn around I've had several sets redone by them
Thanks for your insight Paul. I'll send my rocker assemblies out to rockerarms.com to get them rebuilt, and adjustables put on. At least that's the plan right now. Dropped the motor off at the machine shop today. Hopefully I'll hear back from them soon, so I can get stuff ordered. Already been in touch with Tony from Ross, so I can get this baby going. Started to take the carbs apart today. What's the best way to get everything clean?
In the last day or two, there was a thread on a dirt cheap mini soda blaster you can make, and supposed to be great on carb metal.
Thanks Frank, I'll check it out! Yeah Dave, I wanted to put it back in there, but I didn't feel like cleaning everything to make sure I don't have any junk in the bearings. Plus I was only driving 5 miles.
Does the power piston assembly need to be removed, in order to clean it? If so, what's the best way to get it out (without breaking anything). Also, are there any areas I shouldn't hit with the soda blaster? Or is that recommended for the 'outside only' anyways? Thanks for you guys help!
Got some more parts in: These appear to be the original ones and never used on an engine. Thanks Rigo. Really wanted a set of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/110866319149?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_500wt_1413 but somehow I felt like the money is spent better otherwise.
Geez, what's wrong with THAT set of Offy covers you have? Those are great. Hey, I looked at the ebay sellers ad and he also says this : What on earth is a 3 bolt trans? I looked at his "other items" but it is not there.
Nothing wrong with it Frank, but once I'd seen the set you're running, I was jealous Not sure what he's talking about. Seems like he bought the parts a while back not knowing what they are (yeah, right) and now tries to sell them off. If he really wouldn't have a clue, the Edmunds valve covers would be $30. He was asking for help IDing the J2 crank he's selling now. He's also got this Weiand set for sale: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Weiand-1957-and-Later-Oldsmobile-Rocket-Finned-Valve-Covers-Original-/110867629325?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19d039c50d#ht_500wt_1413 What's the difference between 1949-1956 and the 1957 and up valve covers?
Ha, those weiand covers he has are the dual application, for Olds or Stude. They have 4 undrilled open areas in the fins for the 4 (or 2, depending on year) Studebaker bolt pattern.
Speaking of Stude covers on an Olds... My friend just found these replated stock Stude covers, wrapped in early 70s newspapers,,,,at a YARD SALE Friday I had a set of Olds heads here, so we tried them, and unless I was in the wrong hole...I dropped a phillips screwdriver down though the bolt hole, and it lined up with the threaded hole in the head? The heads I had were #10's and I swear I saw dual threaded valve cover holes about 2" or so apart, on the head surface? I sold the heads on Sunday, so i can't say for sure. All I know is those Stude covers were a bolt on.
The mounting holes on these covers seem to be further apart than on the Olds, and also off center to the bottom? Or am I missing something?
No, you are correct. That's why I mentioned that I tried lining the holes up. My friend saw me line up the hole, so both of us can't be in a daze I keep waiting to hear from the buyer of my heads in Albany. He is supposed to call, looking for a trans gear, when he measures it. I will ask him to look at the head for a dual pattern. This is weird.
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