Hot Rods Please post detailed pictures of "Failed, 35-36 rear Wishbones"

Here is a crummy picture of a couple 1934 Ford Ch***is with this set up built back in the early 70's,... One had a built 302/C4 and a Halibrand Q.C. mounted on 36 bones.( open drive of course),..... The other one had a healthy 364 Nailhead and Muncie 4 speed Also with a Halibrand Q.C. mounted on 36 bones,.. again open drive.





Both cars were finished in the very early 70's and they both put on an insane amount of mileage, Eventually the one with the Ford engine,.. changed the front and rear suspension to test and then to showcase the new hot rod parts they were producing. The other 34' with the Nailhead still has it's original suspension installed 40 years ago,.. and has been spanked hard all those years.

Here is a picture of those two cars when they were finished.


Talking to Pete,.. He said they used his car to put the 4 Bars on to showcase there product,.. But he still had the original 36 bones stashed away for someday....


This car in action is pretty cool,........


Pete told me if you look really close in some of the scenes, you can see the dent in the grill shell just to the left of the radiator cap where a klieg light fell on it.

 

Thank You for the reply.

Frenchy

 

Here I am doing a scientific test on some '36 bones.

Thousands of miles were put on this car like this (gas pedal flat on the floor and sideways).

So, rest ***ured they are safe to use, boys and girls.

Sam

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SHAME ON YOU ! ,......
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Your my new favorite person of the day !

Your mother and I are so proud of you !

 

i mounted shocks in my truck like you have at first found i was getting shock binding .with the rear leaf set up like yours? i possitioned my shocks in vertical an shock binding went away ..are you getting this problem?

 

I'm currently doing a tech thread on strengthening and polishing a pair or 35-36 bones, here is what i found. I went over to a buddies shop to use his lathe and while there we measured the wall thickness, here is what we got. We miced the small end where i had cut off about 2 1/2" inches, it went anywhere from high 20's to high 30's, 33 to 38 being the average. There may be a very small amount of thickness lost to rust, but a VERY small amount. I would feel confident saying they were and are 135. wall from end to end.

 

I'm using 35-36 ends with 46-48 front bones welded to the ends. These are going to get a model A yoke insted of the P/J ends. I did these a few years back for a diffent car but now there going to get used on my 34

 

I don't think it is overbuilt, just VERY Nice!

 

Ummm. use if safe, sell to someone else if unsafe ????

 

I think you mis-read his post. The way i read that, he wants to make sure they are safe before he sells them to someone to use.

 

You have it wrong gr***hopper.....

You have it right young Skywalker...

The comma in my sentence really does mean something..... Here let me fix it for you.

............... If they really are unsafe as some have alleged,... I would like to see the proof,... before I decide to use them on anything, or sell them to somebody to use.

Capeach ?

 

First time I have seen this acknowledged... in fact I can't see ANY split bone or four bar set-up not twisting (or applying twist to the axle)...

I think split bones, triangulated to the center as best may be, is as good as can be done without actually going to Henry's original centerball set-up.

 

Then why not do the orig ball from a front bone? Seems like it should fit in there on most builds? Someone just put up a pic thread yesterday of their "trad ch***is" and he has 2 simple homemade crossmembers; one for his front bone ball and another for the rear wishbone he made.

 

Ah the comma is all, yes I did misunderstand... and I stand corrected.

 

...

 

Not sure what "..." means.... But here's a pair under torque.....

 

So does anybody have a set of bones with broken tubes ?
I'm looking for the axle end

 

Yes we did.