Hey, you found the problem, fixed the problem, and now have learned to keep an eye out for that problem so as to not let it happen again in the future. Believe it or not, I saw something nearly identical happen ON AN AIRPLANE a couple years ago. Even with trained techs, electrical schematics and troubleshooting trees, no less than 100 years' troubleshooting experience out on that aircraft, it still took a day and a half to find the issue and another five days and several thousand dollars to repair the damage caused by the plug swapping. Guess what the new techs learn now on one of their first days on the floor?
great!!!!! still sounds as though more ground straps and grounding connections would help all metal in a car should be grounded running wires fore and aft to ground at battery just means more wires exposed to confuse and messy wiring is prone to problems good luck your now on the teaching side of this did ya know that?
been away for a couple of weeks on the road trip from hell (brother died), but I'm back at it now. I used the search term 'turn signal indicators' and didn't see an answer. I would like to use a single indicator light on the dash for both turn signals. When I hook right and left indicator wires together both front turn signals flash (when right OR left is used), the rears work as normal. Is it possible to make both turn signals work through one indicator light?
Get a couple of diodes from Radio Shack, put them in the wires from the signals before they connect to the single indicator. The diodes will act as one way "check valves" for electricity and prevent back feed between the L/H and R/H turn circuits.
The only way I know how, it to use a diode on both dash indicator feed wires. The diode only lets current flow in one direction, so it won't back feed to the other side of the car. edit: I type slower than Rich.
I had thought of that... never dealt with them. Is there a spec for what I need? Can they be soldered in line?
yes they can be soldered in line and th diode will have a symbol on it like this >l that is the direction current will flow so get 2 doides from radioshack (i just bought the biggest ones) and wire them up so that they are both pointing in the direction of the light -->l-- (light) --l<--
If you wire it in like Lefty says...the indicator light will not work. Point both diodes toward each other, and there will be no current flow so the light will not, well, light. Left turn signal wire ---|>--- ....................................... ---|>-(LED)----- chassis ground Right turn signal wire --|>--- (Ignore the dots. It's hard to write schematics using text characters) The size of the diode required depends on the watt rating of the lamp. To keep the indicator small in physical size, get the 12v 1/2watt diodes, and run a 12v LED. Electricity will 'flow' in the direction of the 'arrow' or triangle on the diode. So all that you do is take the 'out' side of the diodes and solder both to the 'in' side of the LED. Then you'll have three wires -- the 'in' side of the diodes and the 'out' side of the LED. Each of the 'in' sides of the diodes will get attached to the wire for the turn signal. The 'out' side of the LED gets attached to chassis ground. Should run less than a buck. Let me know if you want a hand with the soldering and whatnot.
Use the ℗ pilot terminal from a 3 prong flasher can for the single indicator lite. You can use a jumper wire were the flasher is in your existing fuse block and splice the 3 prong flasher in down line.
I am no expert, but I think you want to keep the flasher indicator bulb from back feeding the left hand turn signal lights when the right hand signal lights are on. I think you would want the diodes in the hot wires that feed the indicator bulb. I think it is back feed through the indicator bulb that you are trying to block with the diode. Let me know if my thinking is wrong. I have trouble getting a flash light to work on a good day. I have never had a hot rod that needed turn signals. I still have 85 to 90 percent mobility in my left arm.
Maybe a visual will help. Note: The diodes do not need to be this large, I just have a bunch of them left over from some cranes where they were not needed.
I wouldn't do the diode thing, you have already had enough electrical problems without asking for more. Add another indicator so you have left and right, the wireharness will be proper wired and easyier to troubleshoot in the future. You go soldering the different turn signal circuits to gether to form a bridge will likely result in a brand new thread. Remember, cars are mechanical assholes and it is best to keep them as simple as possible. Just sayin.
Excellent illustration-We are thinking alike. Thanks for all the work you did on the example. I may have to get rotator cup surgery when I get older and will need turn signals during the recovery. Rich B what kind of cranes do you work on? I love cranes.
Why would it be easier to jump the flasher on the fuse panel, cut into the harness to wire in the 3 prong flasher socket, when the harness already has the two leads for the indicator which are probably already routed to the dash area where he want to place the single indicator light. Sure sounds like more work to me. The 3 prong flasher would be good if you were making your own harness or hadn't installed a purchased harness where you could another contact and lead to the existing fuse panel.
Thanks for that mock-up pic... very helpful. looks like the 'stripe' gos toward the indicator light? I'm sort of committed... the hole for the indicator light is the only one I'v put into an otherwise cherry dash. Its' centered between the gauges, so to add another indicator they would have to be stacked. I'll stop by a Radio Shack tomorrow and see what I can come up with. Thanks for all replys
2 short jumpers from the 2 prong flasher socket to the feed and load terminals of the 3 prong flasher, 1 wire from the pilot terminal of the 3 prong flasher to the single indicator light, which is what he said he wants, no cutting or splicing of the harness needed, sounds pretty simple to me.
I am truly ashamed to have to come here again with this but ... Any thoughts in the collective mind on why I don't have juice to the red 'gauge power' wire? With the key on there is no power in this wire. The wire appears to run directly into the fuse box. There IS battery voltage to both sides of ALL fuses. With the switch off there is NO continuity between the gauge power and chassis ground. All test were made with the gauges and pulse generator speedo sender disconnected from the units, checking the harness/connections only.
If it really is the wire that powers the gauges, and you can visually trace it back to the fusebox, I'd say bad connection in the box. Can you see into the connections in the box?..from the back of it? One other thought; is this harness set up for a certain type of gauge power that needs a vibrator-type power limiter, like Fords had? And if it did, and needs that, would it be a unit plugged into the fusebox? I doubt it. Grabbing at straws here
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