So my automatic transmission was leaking a lot from the front at the engine block. I am ***uming that the front seal is leaking. The car has been parked in a garage for the past 10 years. My Dad and I pulled the transmission but left the torque converter and converter cover/bell housing attached to the engine block. We put in the new seal but have a couple questions before we put it back together.<O</O <O</O 1) Is there anything else we should do while we have the transmission out? We dropped the pan and cleaned the filter.<O</O 2) Is there any where else that would leak in the front other than the front seal? Any other Edsel advice for 361 with an auto and tele-touch is welcomed. <O</O
BE VERY CAREFUL!!!!!!! When installing with the converter already mounted you can brake the pump so easily!!! It is way easier to install the converter into the pump off the motor that trying to stab it in correctly hanging on the motor. Be Careful, Personally I would never do it that way. The Wizzard
We are putting long bolts with the heads cut off into the bellhousing to guide the trans into the converter. Once they are together we are going to remove one long bolt at a time and replace it with the actual bolt.
Getting the converter in the pump dogs is not like a pilot shaft on a stick shift. You won't know it wasn't right till you put it in gear and nothing happens. Then you'll be shopping for front pump parts. Although you might get lucky. The Wizzard
Doesn't this convertor have to be spun on to lock as well? I'd be very careful with trying to do it this way as well..
IIRC, this is a Cruise-omatic or FMX type transmission. I believe the converter was not a welded together type, therefore there is an o-ring which seals up the converter front cover and it's outside shell. This may contribute to leaking too. Converter drain plug may be leaking too. I do agree, take the converter off the flexplate and install into transmission. Then bolt back to engine that way. Only transmissions that go back in with converter bolted to flexplate are Powerflite and early Torqueflites. They use a coupling to engage the converter and front pump.
d2 willys and Pist-n-Broke, thanks for the input and advice. I will pull the converter and look to see if the converter is a two-piece and replace the O ring while it is out. Then put it back together with the converter attached to the transmission.
Converter is a 1 piece, not 2. It has 2 notches that go over 2 ears inside the pimp itself. You ingauge it by turning the converter housing till the drive dogs drop in. Here is a photo of My Edsel wagon. Ask me how I know what happens doing it your planed way. When it doubt go ask a trans guy. Those 2 drive dogs snap off so easy you don't even know it. The Wizzard
For this kind of job, this is a good time to slow down and really pay close attention to what you're doing. When you slide the converter back into the pump it's real easy to get a false sense that it's fullt seated when it's not. If you can get your fingers back in between the converter and the pump it's probably not fully seated. It's kind of a matter of supporting the weight of the converter with one hand while turning it back and forth and pushing it into the pump with the other hand. It can take a bit of patience but when it goes all the way in you'll know it. Then pull the converter back out and install it again for practice, and just to ***ure yourself that you're doing it right! When you start bolting the engine back up there should be at least a 1/4" of clearance between the converter and the flexplate. If there's no clearance between them and you can't push the converter any further back into the pump by hand then you need to make another attempt at installing the converter. Third time's a charm, they say!
ClayMart, I am in hurry at all. That's why I am asking if there is anything else I should look at while I have the transmission out. Thanks for the advice.
Pist-n-Broke, I am not sure how it would bolt back together without fiting the two ears from the converter into the notches in the pump.
There is space behind the pump ears and enough to snap them off if the slots in the converter don't line up just perfict. You won't feel it when pushing the gear box forward. With teh converter in hand you will feel it drop in and the converter will go all the way in the bell housing and touch the back side. You can't hand push it hard enough to brake the ears off but shoving the gear box is a different deal.
I might also mention the seal may not have been your real problem. Early Ford auto's had a issue they named Morning Sickness where the converter would drain down over night or after sitting for extended time. It's a check ball in the gear box. When the converter drains down it over fills the pan and let's the fluid drain out the vent making you think you have a seal issue. The Wizzard
What type of ****** does the 58 Edsel have? My FIL has a 58 and wants to do some things to make it shift better, but I have no idea what it is. Thanks!
Makes sense. [QUOTEI might also mention the seal may not have been your real problem. Early Ford auto's had a issue they named Morning Sickness where the converter would drain down over night or after sitting for extended time. It's a check ball in the gear box. When the converter drains down it over fills the pan and let's the fluid drain out the vent making you think you have a seal issue. ][/QUOTE] It leaked alot. It leaked about 1/2 in just a couple of minutes. When I drove it home (5 miles) there was a trail of fluid. When I pulled the gear box the converter drained out a good quart or two.
It leaked alot. It leaked about 1/2 in just a couple of minutes. When I drove it home (5 miles) there was a trail of fluid. When I pulled the gear box the converter drained out a good quart or two.[/QUOTE] Wow! That is not morning sickness.
Because of how much it leaked, I was expecting a huge crack in the seal or something. The seal just looked dry and worn out. Going to work on it tomorrow.
Looked up in our old book and confirmed that the 58 had a one piece converter. So we put the gear box back in the car last night. We used 2 long bolts with the heads cut off as guides and slide the transmission right in. When we pulled it out were were careful not to move the shaft so it would line right up...and it work perfect. It went nice and straight without having to push hard at all. i am 100% confident that we will not have any problems with breaking any of the ears off. Thanks for the advice guys...it helped us to be even more careful with ***embling the gear box. I have some parts to gather...but should have it all back together next Sat.
The Jalopy Journal
