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overheating

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by aircoup, Apr 25, 2012.

  1. aircoup
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,036

    aircoup

    anybody have any suggestions as why my hemi overheats and pukes coolant every time i shut it down after running it about 10 minutes or so ??thermostat??radiator cap ?:mad:
     
  2. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 33,506

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    give some details about engine, radiator, etc and condition. maybe post some pics. likely thermostat stuck but, could be collapsed hose, blocked radiator, etc.
     
  3. Ten minutes of driving ? Or
    10 mins of idleing in the driveway?
     
  4. GassersGarage
    Joined: Jul 1, 2007
    Posts: 4,726

    GassersGarage
    Member

    If it's an older downflow radiator, it may be overfilled. Pictures would help.
     
  5. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,342

    73RR
    Member

    Stock water pump? what style fan? shroud?

    .
     
  6. miller
    Joined: Aug 5, 2006
    Posts: 526

    miller
    Member
    from New Jersey

    once it is cold drain some coolant out of the radiator leaving about 1 inch of air space...The coolant/water when hot needs more space so what you may be seeing is the water expanding and squirting out...if you fill it when it is cold,and then run it again it will do the same thing once it gets hot..as I say leave about 1 inch of air in top of the rad...It may not have any problem other then the hot coolant has no place to go other then on the ground...look at the newer cars there is a recovery tank to catch the coolant when it is hot, and when the rad/coolant cools down it goes back into the rad......miller
     
  7. garcoal
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 277

    garcoal
    Member

    my experence with 428 fe in my tbird. you can jack around till the cows come home, get a new radiator. unless this thing is built to kill levels the stock new radiator cooled them 40-50 years ago . and they still will when fresh. nothing special a NEW stock size radiator . fixed all my overheating problems
     
  8. aircoup
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,036

    aircoup

    cool , thanks guys , miller i think youve got something there because that seems to be whats going on , 31 vicky yes its 10 minutes sittin in the drive way ,,73rr, yes its the stock waterpump, and gasser, yes i think it was over filled also , thanks for all the suggestions guys , keep the rubber side down ,, aircoup
     
  9. Retro Jim
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,853

    Retro Jim
    Member

    Do you have a puke tank ? If not might be a good idea to make one up or buy one .

    Retro Jim
     
  10. aircoup
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,036

    aircoup

  11. aircoup
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,036

    aircoup

    still overheating , warmed it up and drove it 1mile was percolating in the top hose and pukin coolant ,, any ideas ??????oh i put in a new thermostat didnt have one in it ,,
     
  12. Check it for bad head gaskets.
    Take the cap off, run it and look for bubbles.
    Bubbles means trouble. No bubbles means you still may have a problem.

    There's plenty of other much MORE conclusive tests to do but the bubbles is an easy peasy no expense way to see what's going on.
     
  13. aircoup
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,036

    aircoup

    stock waterpump,15inch electric pusher fan, remote thermostat housing ,higher than radiator though ????????
     
  14. miller
    Joined: Aug 5, 2006
    Posts: 526

    miller
    Member
    from New Jersey

    You write that the "remote thermostat housing is higher then the raditor"...it may be that there is a air pocket/air trapped in the remote housing and not letting a steady flow of water to travel..... the thermostat may never open due to that air,...it needs hot coolant/water to open it.......even if you got all the air out and it did open, the 1st time it pushes the water out and then when it cools down it will pull air in and the that air will go to the highest place in the system which is the thermostat housing ......I think I would find a way to get that thermostat houings lower then the top of the raditor that way any air will be going to the raditor cap and out the system and not returning.........Miller
     
  15. It is very hard to understand what this means.

    Your cooling system will NEVER work if the t stat is at the highest point/higher than the radiator.

    Fill the entire thing/system up to the highest point possible with water-
    and look for bubbles or rapidly rising coolant level with the engine running.
    Rapid means less than a minute.
     
  16. butcher666
    Joined: Feb 28, 2004
    Posts: 21

    butcher666
    Member

    Try burping the thermostat.............cap off running watch the coolant level. It will steadily rise until the thermostat opens and the suddenly drop.......... could have an air pocket. Just a thought.
     
  17. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,480

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    If it didn't have a thermostat in it and overheated and acts the same after installing one, it must have a problem other than the thermostat. When you install a new thermostat, drilling a small (1/8") hole will assure that it doesn't air lock. The fact that there was no thermostat installed suggests a previous problem.

    There are chemical tests for head gasket problems.

    Has this vehicle always done this, did it just start doing it or is the vehicle new to you?

    Normal things to do, check for coolant flow, check for air in the coolant, check air flow through the radiator. An infrared thermometer works well for checking to see where the heat is.
     
  18. aircoup
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,036

    aircoup

    cool thanks guys , hey 31 vicky i think what i need to do is raise that radiator at least a couple of inches , always had a feeling that was the problem
     
  19. tudorkeith
    Joined: May 10, 2009
    Posts: 453

    tudorkeith
    Member

    Did you happen to have the radiator off for any period of time? When I built my car, had over heating issues, turned out a mouse had built a nest in the radiator while off the car. a good back flush solved the problem.
     
  20. Thermostat should not be at highest point. That makes an air pocket and will not transfer the heat from the coolant. Being remote from the engine it also does not allow the heat to get to the thermostat. Your fill point for the cap should be at highest point.
     
  21. aircoup
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,036

    aircoup

    yeah it appears that the thermostat housing is almost level if not higher than the top tank of the radiator ,and the hose from the radiator to the thermostat definetly is so im gonna try an raise the radiator i have a couple inches in the shell to do so,,
     
  22. Orlando1701
    Joined: May 2, 2012
    Posts: 128

    Orlando1701
    Member

    Have you tried running w/o a thermostat at all? I'm running my 50' Ford w/o one at all being that it is now summer time and I live in Florida. Also I don't know if you've wrapped your exhaust, that can help to cut down on heat transfer.
     
  23. If it's an old engine it could be full of rust/scale/dirt/sand, especially if it's from a climate where people don't use anti-freeze. You wouldn't believe how much crap can come out of the water jackets in an old engine.
     
  24. aircoup
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,036

    aircoup

    ok guys i spent all day moving the radiator,, up raised it three inches now its above the remote thermostat , gotta admit its a little better , just a little still steamin at the overflow bottle which in my case dont laugh or judge is a schlitz bottle ,and on just water also, and thats sitting in the drive way after a few minutes , thinkin about tryin some water wetter and some good coolant ,,,,,
     
  25. aircoup
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,036

    aircoup

  26. Buddha Doll
    Joined: Oct 14, 2010
    Posts: 101

    Buddha Doll
    Member

    anti freeze is recomended to raise the boiling point. What degree stat did you install? You probably won't get one to idle and stay at 160* 190-200* is more likely. Are you running a shroud? Are you running a mechanical fan with pusher or just the pusher? You might try a puller if you aren't running a mechanical fan, as pushers aren't as efficient. A shroud is a must to force the air through and get the volume air flow through the radiator especially at idle speed /vehicle not moving.
     
  27. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Ditto what Miller said.

    4TTRUK
     
  28. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Ditto what miller said.

    4TTRUK
     
  29. miller
    Joined: Aug 5, 2006
    Posts: 526

    miller
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Hi how about posting some photos of what you have?...Miller
     
  30. aircoup
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,036

    aircoup

    ok thanks , buddah doll , miller i will try to see if i can post some , dont have much luck or expertise in that area either hahahah
     

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