Hello guys, I've never had a car with all these power accessories before... I'm ***uming it's a relay (out of a 6 volt 1955 Chrysler). It clicks and my window goes down, but is silent and my window wont return up. I have tried cleaning the connections, but no luck. Are these things universal, is there someone who sells them? Or someone who can rebuild this one??? THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP!!!! Josh
I ***ume your car is the '55 Chrysler.... Check under the dash,...for relays,...Possibly one for each power window. I hope this helps..... 4TTRUK
I ***ume your car is the '55 Chrysler.... Check under the dash,...for relays,...Possibly one for each power window. I hope this helps..... 4TTRUK
It's a 1955 Chrysler C300. It is under my rear p***enger quarter window... hooked up to my power window motor. Anyone got any ideas?
Well, so far I found one guy who said he could rebuild it... He says about $200.00 as a ballpark.. then takes a look at the photo and $ays it look$ more complicated than he thought. I'm $cared.
Just a thought. I had a similar problem and thought it was a relay. I checked the back of switch and some of the connections were rusted and loose. Also the switch itself was full of grime and dust. Cleaned them up with sandpaper and wire wool, blew the lot out with an airline and luckily it worked. I'm not an electrician but must have been the rusty/poor connections. As i said, just a thought.
I appreciate the input. I did fully take everything apart, clean and re***emble... but I'm going to monkey with everything (like you say) one more time before sending out. Thanks again!
Hyfire, I, like 40FordGuy, don't think it looks like a normal relay. I, too, think it is a voltage regulator with a switch/relay inside. The one above is just a generic voltage regulator for your model year C300 (link here) Have you traced where any of the wires lead to/from yet? Since most regulators just have ARM/BAT/FLD, this one having two markings for FLD is different to me. If you can get it open then you can see what all 6 poles have - whether there're two cutout/current/voltage units or not. That's where knowing where the wiring goes really matter. I really wonder if perhaps one side of it controls the window up and the other controls the window down? Reading on another bulletin board someone said that it has a switch inside that reverses the motor by changing the +/- Are you wanting to rebuild this one to maintain OEM or just have the window work?
Chrysler liked using motors with wound field, and reversing the field. They did this with windshield wiper motors as well - actually used a reverse rotation of the motor to park the wipers. The "FLD" designations are the Field connections for the window motor. The "ARM" should go to the motor armature. all three wires on the left side of that relay should go to the motor. The three connections on the right side should be power in from the battery, and a lead from each side of the Up/Down switch. The motor and the relay box will need good grounds to operate. Grab your DVM and check the three terminals on the right side of that box. Most likely the center one will be +6v above ground, and the other two will be either nothing or +6v Test all six terminals without operating anything, and post the results. That relay can be replaced with a couple of standard relays if you are not building a 100 point car... B
Give it a whirl, what have you got to lose? It doesn't work now, if you mess up it won't work so???? Take the cover off, blow out any dust, clean the points with a points file or 800 wet or dry if they are tungsten. Some old Chrysler control relays used silver, in that case spray them with contact cleaner and drag a folded strip of white typing paper thru them. On the tungsten ones, do the same after you file or sandpaper them. You want to get them perfectly clean. You can test before you put the lid back on to be sure everything works OK.
all good advice here ^^^^ Very rarely does a coil go bad in these relays, but you can check the resistance with an ohmeter while you have the cover off on the bench. You may just find a broken solder connection where the coil pigtails connects to their lugs. Check for continuity between the lugs and the coil wires. Since you said it doesn't click for the second reverse motion.
Well... I tested it. The 3 on the right did show, while the ones on the left show nothing. I tried swapping the two live ones and the motor spun clockwise (reverse direction) but didnt spin the original direction. So the top right is good... the bottom right is not. I also tested the switch (OK) and the connection between the switch and relay (OK). I'll see if I can crack it open without damaging the clamps. If so I will check the condition, if not I'll bite the bullet and start saving up my spare lunch money. THANKS FOR THE HELP GUYS! Josh
I'd bet when you open it up, you will find a way to fix it. This old stuff is repairable. Don't be shy about having to deform the crimped edge, get it open as best you can.
WHOA - STOP. You found +6V on all three terminals on the right hand side in that picture? And when you swapped the "two live ones" - WHICH two wires in that pic did you swap? There may be nothing wrong with that relay ***embly. Before you tear it apart, let's finish wringing out the wiring. 1) Which two wires in that photo did you swap for reverse rotation? 2) Did you see +6v on all three terminals on the right hand side in that photo? B.
That photo is actually upside down. The left side is +6, the right side isn't. I swapped the top and bottom on the +6 side and motor went opposite way. I opened it up and everything is pristine. I tested everything and one contact wasn't working (the one for the non-working direction). I wet sanded and retested and it's now working. i will hook everything up tomorrow and see what happens. I think it should work! THANK you for the help guys! I'll post my results. Josh
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