I bought a '30 Model A coupe. I changed out the steering column to a flaming river tilt wheel. No problem testing it in. Horn works Brake lights light when the pedal is pushed But the left and right turn signals do not work. Biggest problem with this car, the builder must have run out of wire because there are splices that have fallen apart on me (part of the problem I am trying to fix) and worse yet, the wires change colors on me in the same run of wire, so it isn't as easy as just picking out a color, more like have to grab each wire and see where it goes. My question is, the left and right turn signal from the steering column ribbon cable do those go directly to the the left and right turn signal lights? If I follow the wires that I think go to the front left and right lights they have a splice or a T wire and the wire branches off...... If I tie the loose wire of the "T" to the steering column connector, nothing happens when I flip the turn signal arm on the column...... Can someone point me in the right direction on this? All help is appreciated..... Thanks
The rear turn signal should go through the brake light circuit and there should also be a wire that goes to a flasher. Don't know if this helps but it might be a couple of things to check.
most turn signal switches have these wires for signals. - one wire from the signal flasher going IN - one wire from the emergency flasher going IN - one wire coming out, going to rt frt AND rt dash indicator - one wire coming out, going to left frt AND left indicator - one wire coming out that goes to RR, but is also used as rt brake light wire - one wire coming out that goes to LR, also used as left brake light. Other wires in that switch are: - horn - brake light power coming in from brake switch
I was looking at the wiring diagram again and went back out and checked the L pin on the connector which goes back to the fuse box, turn signal relay. I looked again at the fuse and it was blown, I replaced it and it blew as I plugged it in. I unhooked a few of the wires I was guessing at and put another fuse in, and it blew just as fast......so time for bed.....but there is a short someplace... How do I check to make sure there isn't a short in my new column from FR? Thoughts? I only say this because there is a gray wire from the column that is supposed to light the PRNDL display on top of the column and I can't get it to light even when I hook 12 volts to it......
More likely it's wired wrong. Just my opinion. You will need to test the wires at the T/S switch. See if each wire, when disconnected, will do what it should, either with a jumper or test light. Test light for seeing if there is power at the "in". Jumper is used to send power down each disconnected wire that goes to each of the light bulbs.
Will take another shot at it tomorrow night.....should be able to put 12 volts on the lamp wire to get it to light, the light should have its own ground to complete the circuit...correct?
I should note tat the daytime running lights, the front turn signal lights can be left on by pulling on the headlight controls partway. That works too,,,,,but no headlights....will have to tackle that after the turn signals.
I made a jumper wire and I can force on the turn signal lights in the front. I checked the voltage to the wires that are supposed to carry voltage to the steering column ribbon cable. The hazard light wire had 12 volts, but the wire that is supposed to carry 12 volts to the turn signal does not. The fuse right next to the hazard and turn signal power is blown. I pulled the tun signal relays and looked at the printed circuit board that is the fuse box and could not tell for sure if the traces go to that fuse location or not. I have tried to stick a fuse in there but it blows. So what I think I will do is disconnect the wire that goes to that fuse and put the fuse back in and see if it still blows or if power is provided to the turn signal power wire. Other suggestions? Horn works Running lights work Brake lights work Power antenna and radio work Head lights/tail lights do not work nor does turn signals. Focusing on turn signals first, then head lights.
I did check the turn signal at the ribbon connector and when my multi meter is connected to the left turn signal wire on the ribbon cable and negative to ground, and putting the turn signal arm in the left turn indication position, the meter showed a completed circuit. Which means that goes to ground when switched, but I would have thought that the steering column would have just switched power to the right output.....is tat right?
Forget the ohms, it's messing up your thinking Sure it will show completed circuit, because the bulb filament is grounded. Your ohmmeter is picking that up. The way a flasher works: The flasher has power all the time when the key is on. It will only blink when a "load" is placed on it. That load would be the bulb filaments, acting like grounds. The flasher guts heat up, then break contact, just like a circuit breaker. But as the guts cool down, it make contact again...and again.. The emergencey flasher has power all the time, so you can park off the road with key off, and still have warning flashers. So, check for power at the flashers. if it has power, then see if power is coming out of the T/S switch when you move the lever to one side.
In order to save fuses, you can make a small useful tool. Take an ordinary turn signal flasher, take two leads with female ends and aligator clips on the other end. insert the clips (or male spade ends, if you have a newer style panel) into the suspect fuse holder. The flasher will audibly click as long as there is a dead short, but not allow the wiring to overheat. Start removing things on the circuit, until the clicking stops. This may help you to identify the bad circuit. good luck.
Make sure we are talking the correct wire here. The wire that "supplies" power to the signal light bulbs, by going through the switch, is the wire coming from the flasher. One side of the flasher goes to keyed power. The other side will show steady power until it gets "tripped" by the bulb resistance. So, if the lights are not blinking or the T/S switch is in the middle, a steady 12v should be on that wire going into the T/S switch....with key on.
With key on, no voltage on the purple "L" wire.....none. Where does the turn signal hot terminal get its voltage from on the fuse block board? Is there any chance the relay is bad? I had checked the continuity and it was there......
If you have hazard power going into the T/S for sure, now test all the other T/S wires to see if some get power as you try the hazard switch.
sorry to interpupt, im under the car now! HELP!!!!!!!!!! 6v 31 A - ALL stock , V8FH 94carb/6v fuel pump QUESTION: Do I wire all possitve/+ on coil & elec.pump & even alt. to, say, starter for juction box ("possitive like any other car") & just hook the batt. possitive ground("backwards")????
Try this: Remove the flasher and see if you have power at one of the pin sockets, if not figure which fuse is blown or where the loss of power is and correct it. With the flasher still out, check for continuity between the other socket and the end of the wire that is going to connect to column harness, also check this wire for grounds. If no continuity or grounded, repair the problem. Put the flasher in and connect and try each rear and front light in turn, if one of the lights blows the fuse, repair the problem in the wire or light. Signals should work now. Repair the headlights the same way, check power to switch, then check power from switch to dimmer switch, then check power from dimmer switch to high and low beams in each light. Should find the problem pretty easily.
Ok, got the painless kit, I am taking all the wires that I don't need and wrapping them up. I got the few wires that I think I need to get turn signals going again sorted out. My plan is to test rig the wires to the signals and if it works, then install tomorrow. Decided to put the new fuse box on the p***enger side and as I upgrade the wiring, will move from driver side to permanent new location on p***enger side....keep fingers crossed this jury rigged set up works to clear path for tomorrow. Stay tuned.....
Ok, not sure why, but I was looking around at the wires and found a connector I didn't use with a wire on it (changed the column out from a tilt w/key old Caddy column to a Flaming River tilt column, some connectors not needed). Traced the wire back to the fuse box and sure enough it went into the box where I would have expected power input to get to the flasher relay input. I hooked my battery tender to it, reattached the wires that I believed went to the various signal wires and low & behold when I turned the key, flipped the turn signal and I had turn signal lights! Still don't have head lights working, but that is next.....
Thank you to everyone that provided input, it was appreciated. I have the car back together, I didn't find the problem with the head lights but that wasn't a priority right now. I have blinkers, brake lights, horn, emergency blinkers and running lights. I got the car out of one garage into my other garage with the 4 post lift so I can get under the car easily and get my new stainless steel exhaust mounted up on the car. If anyone is going to GM Proving grounds for Hot Rod Power Tour, we will be there the first day with a RED 1930 Ford Model A. Look for us.... Thanks again everyone!
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