Anybody seen a model A coupe (or similar sized car) that had a full cage in it......where the car still looked cool. I wanna go fast, but to go real fast, you gotta have a cage. ....or street race.
Yaaaah - especially in a coupe! ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Why do they call it reckless driving if it causes wrecks?
A model A is cozy enough as is. I don't want to give up too much unnecessary space due to improper tube placement. I guess I am looking for pics of a car where the cage tucks up close to the body (almost recessed?). Would a roll cage shoved all the way to the outer sheetmetal is (sitting where the wood should be) pass NHRA tech? ....do they have to be able to see the welds during tech? Also, I don't want it to look like a pro-stocker with all aluminum panels I want a somewhat traditional hot rod that will pass tech and look cool doing it.
How fast are you trying to go?? Street car or full race?? Check the NHRA rulebook, cause I'm not totally sure, but I think you don't need a cage till 12.0 and faster. -Abone.
Flipper first I guess We need to know what You are calling fast. Roll bar requirments are based on ETs. they have 6-8-10 & 12 points. Yes they do need to see and inspect it so it has to be visable. Putting it out towards the skin is ok. Maybe when Your not racin You could cover it with a cloth panel that is removable? What Ya got in mind for an ET ? FEDER
This doesn't really help, as mine is a sedan and yours is a coupe, but... Mine spins the tires all the way down the 1/8 to 8.30s @ 90+ mph. That's a pretty high 12 sec 1/4 and I've never had a tech guy even glance inside my car. Good luck, -Abone.
I don't know if the inspector will look all the way areound each weld, he'll probabaly want to see a few of the welds. We just put a full 12 point cage in a 32 five window where the cage was tucked in close to the body, about an inch to two inches away from the body all around. I'll try to get some pics up in a few days if you're still interested. RRR
Mid tens will require a cage, unless your car has an unaltered body,then you can get by with a roll bar. Faster than 10.0 will require chassis certification. The welds have to be reasonably visible. I have a 10pt cage bent for my '32 5 window but it's not installed yet. Any competent chassis shop can bend a well fitting cage. And the cage isn't something you want to skimp on - it's your last line of defense. Mutt
OK best advice I can give you is take it to Harry Robinson - RobinsonRacing.net. He's in cumming, Ga., & does the best work on race cars (& knows the rules). Worth it to take it to him from Ky...... ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" It's been so long since I've had sex, I can't remember who gets tied up.
YOUCH!! Mid 10s is haulin the mail. A car that fast should be built with the welder in one hand and the NHRA rule book in the other. 10 second cars are subject to ALL KINDS of odd ball tech stuff you would never think of. Best bet is to build it to tech a little faster then you intend on going, just in case. I think the 9.90 class is still called Super Comp and will require HUGE ammounts of rule compliance. So, I take it this car will be a full race deal? What kind of mill/chassis are you planning? Good luck, -Abone.
Well You will need a 10 point then. Order a Chris Alston chassis book there free that will give You some ideas. Or call them they can e mail what they already got. FEDER
We specialize in chrome moly roll cages. Have done many that are tucked in dam close to the outer skin. Yep, it's not easy to get em in there without sacrificing something...but in a coupe it's a no brainer.....the body in most cases can be dropped over the cage after it's welded.....sure simplifies the job. If we can be of any help, don't hesitate to call or email Mark Artis Texas Thunder Performance 2027 Witt Rd Frisco, Tx 75034 (N. Dallas area) 972.712.6558 www.texasthunderperformance.com www.texasoutsiders.com
I've had my hoop bent but haven't put it in yet. I'm mounting it just behind door opening then laying it back to rear of turret. I'm planning on putting rear struts 5" down (max allowed) so they can clear bottom of turret. Angled main hoop helps here. This way I can get the required 30* or greater angle from vertical for the rear struts. I'll have to diagonal them to clear wheel tubs. Rear struts are the problem with a coupe. You can also run them out the roof and into rear panel or go to a funny car cage.
put in a single hoop in the back of the cab and run a single down tube in the midle or on an angle going into the passenger area. That should do it if you can find someone to fab it up correctly.
I hadn't thought about a "funny car" style cage...... build the "cage" behind the door opening and don't have anything that comes forward to the a-pillar. Any idea if that would that pass tech?
You dont want a funny car type cage for the street. Think about this, in a race situation, you have a helmet to pad your noggin from when it hits the cage. On the street, its just your head! That, plus getting in and out of one is a pain in the ass.
you should call the nhra north central division tech director ritch bowers at 765-689-8377 mon.-wed.9am to 5pm
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