I have a couple of questions about my 283 build. Most posts I've read have been bench racing or hypothetical scenarios and this is already in progress. I have always liked the idea of a 283 or 327 in a light truck and since I'm building my '40 ford, I figured this would be the way to go. Both of my 327 blocks were found to be worthless but the steel small journal cranks were good. The engine builder had a 66 283 laying about, so like many did back in the day we combined the two. Here's what we have so far... '66 283 block thats been punched to 4" 327 steel crank TRW forged flat top pistons L2165F (supposed to be 9.6-1 comp at 66cc) 3782461 camel humps (1.94 int / 1.5 exh) 62cc Cam is 278/288 - .420/.433 - 107/117 Planning on running a T5 from chevy camaro and a 8.8 L/S 3.73 rear housing rims are 16" tires ? Now the questions. 1. Will this set up have enough vacuum for a 3X2 set (holley 94 type 59) 2. Is this now a 327 or are the numbers a little different? 3. Since I'm using a 327 crank do I go with 327 pulleys and dampener? The dampener off of the 283 differed from the 327. They were about the same size but the 283 had holes drilled all around the outside and it had and extra weighted pulley on it. I plan to only run an alt so I only need one groove. Does any body sell single groove pulley sets for these blocks? I can only find them for 350s without the dampener rivit holes drilled. 4. Will this combo have any power down low or only when its revved high? I told the builder that I was not looking for a race block but something to cruise with that has passing umph. Will the tranny choice be okay with this set up (I'm not real used to overdrives). What tire should I go with? Thanks!
i think you have made a 301--or maybe a 307 its been so long i cant remember the right way to figure displacement .i'm sure someone wwill refresh my memory & give you the rite answer
I think you've got a very streetable package put together. I think it is now really a 327. I think it will pull enough vacuum and make good horsepower after it gets to about 2200-2500 rpm. Will probably sacrifice some low end with the 3.73 and 16'' wheels but should work out good on the highway. I ran a very similar setup for years in my 55 and was very happy with it.
Actually, a 283 block with a 327 crank would be 307 cu. in. Bore the block to 4 in and you're back to 327 again, only with all the problems inherent to an early 283 block with a .125 overbore. It will be kinda a baby stroker, for lack of a better defination. Those boys down in Georgia built a 307 baby stroker that was featured in Hot Rod Deluxe and got about 400 hp.
I was concerned about the bore, but the engine guy built a bunch of these long time back with no problems over heating or cracking. The block was sonic tested to. I read somewhere that the 283 during this time frame was an unbored 327. The block is on the run stand now with an edlebrock 600 to break it in. Just need some pulleys now....
All sounds good, 3.73 and the T5 will work great with an OD....but be carefull, some had really low ratio 1st gear, which are useless, and some had only a .90 or so OD ratio, compared to a more popular .73 or so. Run the numbers on the tag on the trans...
Ànd any single pulley for a sbc should work asvlong as its for the short wp i assume you are running. Short wp will have the crank pully right up against the balancer
It depends on what you want to do with it... In my `40 coupe, I`m running a 4.56 on a full spool to drag with...too low for much street driving. last year at the HAMB drags It went 13.34 and 104 mph. I plan to change it to a 3.25 for street driving. Tom T
Hans-yes on the stock style short pump. I have the water pump pulley thats no prob, its the crank pulley I need. The balancer is different than 350's in size and they have rivits on the race so the pulley will need holes for them. I have a pulley off a 283 but its a little warped and it had another weighted pulley out front. Do the 327 of this year range need this extra weight? I'll try to get a picture up.
To find displacement: bore x bore x stroke x .7854 x # of cylinders 265- 3 3/4" bore, 3" stroke 283- 3 7/8" bore, 3" stroke 327- 4" bore, 3 1/4" stroke The only small block Chev that had any external balance was the 400, so no weighted pulley. Since the weight of the inertia ring on a harmonic balancer is tuned to the weight of the rotating/ reciprocating assembly inside, and your combo is not something the factory put together, any stock balancer is going to be less than ideal. You might want to consider an aftermarket balancer like a Fluidampr.
Using 64 - 66 camel humps with no bosses. Casting numbers 3782461 Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
Put a Ford, In a Ford... I did what you said in an old camaro. The engine ran cool, If I would do it again, I would buy a Larger damper, and make sure you thread the crank if it isnt. That is a very mild cam, and you should have plenty of vacuum.
Well vacuum was my main concern for the 3x2, I'll post as I put it all together and let everyone know how it turns out. Cam numbers and what not is not my thing as I mainly focus my time on fabrication. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
TS listed; '66 283 block thats been punched to 4" 327 steel crank TRW forged flat top pistons L2165F (supposed to be 9.6-1 comp at 66cc) 3782461 camel humps (1.94 int / 1.5 exh) 62cc Cam is 278/288 - .420/.433 - 107/117
I want to use the stock style dampener if possible. They just look better than the giant 350 disks. Once its set at tdc I could run some timing tape no? I'm using a stock dis with a pertronix but am giving lots of thought to points. Whats the advantages of a regular distribubtor and the dual point Corvette housing? would it make much difference on a light streetable set up? Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
run the lightest possible dampner, big flywheels slow you down, always run 307 dampner on my stock cars having a THIN WALL 327 you will need the best available radiator i have one and the temp gauge goes up as fast as the speedometer i finally put a battry fan cooler under the car and a 200 overdrive in it too, hope to drive it soon got crap fuel in it yet after it sitting 3 year
I'm really surprised that any engine builder would bore a 283 to 4" bore. The cores used to cast a 283 are not the same as a 327, and I think you're going to have thin cylinder walls, regardless of what your builder said. That's twice what I would ever consider having a 283 bored.
Hey boss, hit me up, I have some pulley you can look thru, several 283 and 327 pulleys, I'm a bit concerd about the wall thickness or lack there of too.
You Have had the crank in the block already? You do have the block with the bottom of the bores clearanced for the 327 crank right? Not all 283's will accept a 327 crank. The counterweights may hit the bottom of the bores. And do not grind the block if they don't! Just saying, Lippy
I'm not sure what your concern is with the carburation. With 94s, you do have to set up the power valves properly, but that isn't a big deal and there are several threads here that can help figure it out. General setup would be effected by whether you set them up as a progressive linkage or straight.
Lippy-yes we are aware of the clearance issues and everything has been machined and long blocked. This builder has made many of these way back when with no problems. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
Yeah, as has been said, watch for block/crank interference...if your block is late enough you shouldn't have any trouble...I've bored the little 283 block .125 to 4 inches many times with no problems. And yes, with the 327 crank [3.25" stroke] you now have a real live 327 chevy. Unless you have 106-108 LDA on the cam [mucho overlap] you should be ok in the vacuum dept. The factory single groove pulley will bolt to the small or the large dampener....the flat pulley uses the short water pump and the extended pulley is for use with the long water pump...all will interchange on the big or the little dampener..your choice but the 327 used a bigger dampener than the little 283-307s did.
Progressive, I've read about but never ran a 3x2 set up myself. I heard that they require more vac. We will cut the power valves by half on the outsides. I'll be the first one to admit that I'm not an engine builder. I would love to pick the Hambs brains though and post up as it goes and give feed back on this set up as there seems to be varied thoughts on doing this. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
Rocky, I pulled a bone stock 327 out of a truck that had not been molested. It had the same size dampener as my stock 283? Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
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