Sounds like the lack of training may be intentional. Agents mislead the customer, adjusters insert the screwdriver....
First, I absolutely agree that if there is a way to cover something, we should. I certainly don't want to say no. There are planty of 'gray' areas in the insurance business and I personally think if an items falls into the gray area, we are better off extending coverage. It is what is fair. The companies I deal with are Agreed Value policies. There is no negotiation regarding the value of the vehicle. If the policy is $10,000, that is the limit. It's nothing I need and is a waste of the customer's time. It's the same with sending someone out to get three estimates. I don't need them. The estimate is what I'm there to write. I also don't think you send a rookie to look at vintage vehicles unless you want to insult your customer, the repair shop and then lose that customer. It's also something that I think a 'car' guy needs to be involved in. Sending a guy who just collects his appaisers check every week isn't anymore wise.
While I do have copies of the policies for both Hagerty and Grundy, I don't bother printing those. Customers want to know what you are doing to fix their car, not a policy class. And this is especially true when you are denying a claims. A verbal explanation usually does. If this insured had a warranty policy, it's possible this could be covered. But that type of warranty on a 1984 car would probably exceed the cost of repair. These policies do not have mechanical loss coverage. It's a straight car insurance policy. No GM Protection Plus here. Since I was a driver @ 16, I was kinda suspicious of the insurance business-never had a claim in 32yrs of driving and could've built one hell of a Hot Rod with what I have spent on my own coverage, but I do know that all it would take is one loss and it could wipe me out all the way around. I LOVE what I do. I don't sit in an office all day. I get to go out and meet car guys and gals. I get to see, and hopefully help to rebuild some really cool cars. And on newer daily driver type cars, I learn something new everyday. Of course I learn new things about old cars too. Newer estimating software from Mitchell and CCC make estimating newer cars similar to playing a video game. TAP, TAP, TAP... Doing a 40 year old car is completely different. There is no database, and everything on your estimate is manually typed into the system. And with CCC, it will not accept years older than 1955. So the 1948 Chevy I'm totaling today will say 1955 Chevy Fleetmaster. And the first line of my estimate will say that this is a 1948 Chevy... I just switched back to Mitchell which will take any year you wish.
If you have an Agreed Value policy, it means nothing. And even with a Stated Value policy, the amount you insured the vehicle for is the limit. That appraisal may keep the Allstates and State Farms of the world from trying to short change you when your $60K vehicle is stuffed and they call $25K in repairs a borderline total loss(?). I would think that appraisal was the basis for the amount you insured the vehicle for.
The problem in this idea is that you can't treat a '32 Ford roadster like a 2007 Chevy Impala. How many '32 Fords are for sale at any given time and how much do this cars vary. This assumes all '32 Ford roadster are built to the same standard. I can tell you they are not. I've seen '32's change hands for $15K (fiberglass body, older build) and I've seen a new, professionally built car go for $145K. We'd all like to see $145K go to our pocket, but it isn't going to happen. We all know quality built cars when we see them and we know crap too.
I can't argue this. If you have a question on buying insurance, talk to a salesman. If you want to know if something will be covered, talk to an adjuster. You wouldn't ask the bakery in your grocery store about how fresh the fish is would you?
Breaking the door glass won't get you inside the door. Though there is a discussion going on with the lock linkage. We're still brainstorming. But yes, if I knew I could get in that way, I'd break the glass too.
i bought a car off ebay about 5yrs ago. it was repainted and it was about a mile east of TMI. i got to get a geiger counter.........
to my knowledge all covered cars were compensated on 9/11. i started working for a major ins company the month prior. although i wasnt licensed yet to write the claims, i rode along on a couple of inspections during my training. i'm now in a shop and have fixed many cars that mother nature threw trees down on. if that tree claim got denied it sounds like either an adjuster who enjopys being a d!ck, or a low rated company that makes you fight for your money. either way, a call to your state insurance rep would clear it up. if you know youre right, the state seems to clear things up quick. if you're not sure, they have the answer. good post by the way.
I have to say, I'd LOVE to see a car come to an insurance office on a claim of nuclear fallout. And I would love hearing the geiger counter clicking like no tomorrow. Hell, I'd cover the loss just because I'd be extremely impressed...LOL!
If cars claims were paid from 9/11, I have a hard time seeing the 'WAR' clause being used anytime soon . I won't say never, but heck, King George declared a 'War on Terrior' and invaded Afghanistan. This is as close to Pearl Harbor as you can get.
if he had made the claim after the mechanic had damaged his trims it would likely be covered. only because the damage is intentional its not covered. i've fixed cars that people were suckered into repairs by gypsies. the insurance company paid for the corrective repairs because the owner didnt intentionally further damage their car. maybe it was just done for customer service.
it could have been a PR thing or done for customer service. their exposure wasnt that much. compared to the freak hail storm we had last year in NY that was a drop in the bucket. most companies lost their shirts, but it saved alot of shops too.
CCC ONE?....Cause Pathways WILL accept older years data entry(my account manager showed me how....but I forgot how to do it ...psst...I'm still on Pathways because of lousy internet access in my area)
I've looked at cars that shops have damaged. But the insurance company then subrogated against the repair facility. If the shop has no other way in and he authorizes the damage (and if I was the shop, I'd have the owner sign something to that effect) I'd be extremely pissed off.
CCC 1 is currently only available (so I was told) to insurance companies and body shops. No version for I/A's at this time. I actually spoke with the designer about the years issue. If it works at the body shop level, I guess you can thank me. Insurance company versions allow for older models so I know the change isn't that involved. But there are 3 different versions and there is something different for each one.
So you dont think you can access the door lock actuator linkage easily with no glass in the way? It would be my first plan of attack. Lower the glass until about an inch is above the dew strip. Break glass with spring loaded center punch. Clear away the glass, spread the dew strips, have a look at the linkages and devise a tool to work them, probably a coat hanger.
The concern is that many foreign cars, especially expensive ones, shielded the locks as an anti-theft deal so they could not be easily slimjimmed. I'm not saying it won't work. What I'm saying is someone will want to make sure breaking the glass will make a difference. I'd hate to break the glass and then tear up the trim panels too.
Hi Swifster, been following this one,but am not to sure what is the claim is for?,one thing you could do is find a door in the junkyard and take it back to the shop and disect it to see how the linkages work in the lock mechanisms,seem you may need a glass and a door panel anyway?,might be worth a shot. HarveyB
I realize you cannot recommend one company over anouther, BUT, can you tell me who you have covering your classics? TIA!
The owner wants to make a claim for the door trim panels that are not yet damaged. The shop wants to rip into the door trim for access to the linkages between the vacuum operated power lock actuator and the actual lock itself. The problem is that to be covered under comprehensive (obviously there is no collision damage) there has to be a peril. Something like theft, vandalism, flood, lightning strike, etc. There is no peril causing this loss. It will be the repair shop damaging the trim panels (or door glass) on purpose to repair a mechanical failure. The door idea would be great, but those doors will be about $600 just to dissect them. And with the rear door being on an SEL (long body version), a door may not be available locally. Then you start adding shipping charges. There really is no easy solution. I called the South East Region After Care Center in Jacksonville. They are really nice people and they have their own engineering staff. The looked into this all day yesterday and finally shrugged. They are not sure how to get into the car either. My whole thought from the begining is that no one builds a car you can't repair without spending $800 for door trim (or door glass, door handles, etc.). And these were the first words from the folks at Mercedes-Benz. I will still bet there has to be away to get in there without damaging the car.
There are a lot of threads about insurance and everyone has listed who they have covering there car. I'd like to keep this to claims. For what it's worth, Infinity Classic Collector has my Studebaker. Why? Because I was doing work for them before their largest agent moved their largest book of business to another company. My policy is for coverage DURING the restoration and not for road use. I pay $125 a year. When the car is driveable, I'll be switching to either Hagerty or Grundy. I feed those who feed me. Infinity took the vintage work in-house so I don't see anything from them anymore. That's why my policy will change. For the process of doing the work before the car sees the road, I'll leave the policy where it's at. It will probably be Hagerty. Not because their is anything wrong with Grundy, but because Philadelphia has my business insurance. I'd rather spead my business around.
$90-$120 HR For bodywork? That overhead must be through the roof. Rates here are $55 and $38 P & M, and that is the top of the line shops. We do have one bodyman from Jerzy who is an artist at "cave and pave". Always have to explain the correct way to do things to him.
To fix your Benz try flooding the lock mechanism with WD 40 through an existing opening that allows good spray coverage unto and into the latch and handle assy. You will probably find that the cam plates that rotate over the striker pin have gotten rusty between the facings they are adjacent to inside the latch and will not allow the cam plate to rotate freely to allow the latch to operate correctly. I have seen this type of issue on many cars exposed to rust prone enviroments and lack of useage. You may need to let the WD40 soak in a day or so and it may need a second or third application . Once open replace the latch if available as it will probably freeze up again in the near future. Oh and please quit referring to me as the shop owner .
OK Boss! I think I have a solution. I'm open to ideas on this. Unbolt the hinges at the front of the door and rest the door on a door dolly. GENTLY pull back the front of the trim panel enough to reach a hand inside and pull/push the linkage to release the latch. On the front door, this may mean pulling or loosening the fender, headlamp assy and front bumper. This should release the door from the car completely. If something does break, it will be one of those old, brittle vacuum lines going to the lock actuator.
For a year I lived in St. Louis and in the mid 90's the rates were $44 and $30. My mom wacked the mirror off her van on her way to St. Louis. I had forgotten how expensive it was there. $57 & $38...
I guess I asked the question incorrectly. I meant before the policy is written. If I want to get an Agreed Value policy, would not having an appraisal help to justify to the Insurance company the amount I want the policy to be for? Or are they more than willing to insure any car for any amount the owner wants, as long as the owner is willing to pay the premium?
You idea of unbolting the door will require removal of the fender . Removing the fender may not be a good idea as MB chip guarded all the inner areas of the feder where its meets the front inner structure and cowl. So much so you many times cant even see the bolt heads . Even if you get all the bolts out you will need to cut through the chip guard and release the fender . There is a high risk of damaging the fender during R&I. http://www.mercedessource.com/node/3486 Diagnose door lock problems on 1977 to 1985 240D 300D 300CD 300TD 280E 280CE For all 123 chassis cars with vacuum door locks from 1977 to 1985. Now you can finally fix those pesky vacuum door locks yourself! Failure is almost always caused by vacuum leaks in the system. This 28 page manual with 55 photographs will take you step by step through the process of quickly finding and repairing those leaks. Starting at the firewall and working all the way to the trunk/deck of your car, I will show you how to isolate the problems even without having to take the door panels off. To aid in trouble shooting you will need to acquire an inexpensive vacuum hand pump. Normal hand tools are the only other things you will need. For 1977 to 1980 cars I even have vacuum actuator repair kits available so you can replace any cracked diaphragms you may find. PLEASE NOTE: as an added bonus I have included all the information contained in my 123 Door Maintenance Guide in the appendix of this manual (no need for you to purchase that separately). This will show you how to properly remove your door panels and do other related maintenance inside your doors while you are working on the vacuum door locks. There are even instructions on how to properly deactivate the automatic door locks if you should so choose. NOTE: A hand pump vacuum tester is required to properly troubleshoot your vacuum door locks. This is one tool I think every Mercedes diesel owner needs to own. If you are having vacuum shutoff issues, hard break pedal or problems with your door locks not operating properly, then you must have this tool to troubleshoot those problems effectively. To order this tool separately CLICK HERE. Mercedes 123 Vacuum Door Lock Diagnosis Tip by Kent Bergsma Take a look at this video http://youtube/HoVVUMvEPx8
Hi Swifster,i wouldnt recommend trying to loosen the door at the front,there isnt enough room in there for your hand,if both doors quit at the same time i would think it is a problem with the vacum lines under the hood?,maybe someone did some mechanical work on the motor and disturbed the lines.Im having a hard time thinking that you could call your ins company for a seemingly mechanical problem?,nothing has happened yet?,i think he should be talking to Mercedes for selling him a faulty product?,I wish i could work on this car,i love a challenge. Harveyb
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