Fairlane shuts off when reching operating temp

Hey guys, any ideas on what may cause this?

Fresh 289 engine, new distributor/cap/rotor/coil/wires/ igntion switch

rebuilt carb (tested), new fuel lines gas tank clean (was driven daily before engine swap)

the car will start right up.... idle until its warm then shut off, then it becomes increasingly difficult to start.

 

IF you are running points it could be a possible bad condenser,I had a new one that was defective do that, also check the voltage at the ballast resistor when it's cold and when it cuts off.

 

replaced the points and condenser also, no luck... also i dont have a ballast resistor, i have a resistor wire which is also new.

 

Heat causing the coil to break down.

 

The coil is new, its from oreillys... Should I get one of em fancy accel coils? I don't see it getting too hot, its above the intake.manifold.... Whatta ya think?

 

X2....new coil or not, it could easily be a bad one...or you could be vapor locking...are the fuel lines away from the exhaust? Get the 1" phenolic spacer for the carb to get it up off the intake, that will help too...

 

Coils work off resistance....resistance makes its own heat. You don't need a fancy coil, just a good one.

I guess I shouldn't say work off of resistance, but a certain amount is inherent to them. A short causes more which equals more heat. More heat causes it to short completely. It would restart normally after it cools off.

 

I'll try a new coil, won't hurt. Also I have a spacer on the carb. Fuel lines look to be clear from exhaust

 

Does it fire right up when cold? if so check the coil, if it is difficult or pops at all check the dwell and the cam gear if you reused the distributor, i had a mustang i did for a guy which did the same thing, he tried to cut corners by reusing the distributor but the points were bad so we had to replace them and set the dwell but then he didnt realize what cam was in the motor he brought us and it had chewed up the cam gear making it jump timing and shut off when warm.

 

It does fire.right up, I've tried the old and new distributors and the results are the same. as luck would have it I got a 15 dollar pep boys gift card in the mail so I'm gonna buy a new coil with that and see what happens

 

Leave the gas cap off for a few minutes. See if it was creating a vac in the tank

 

line loc in fuel lines maybe. its usually after the fuel pump and near a radiator hose

 

Good info here^^^^^

 

The poor abused rotor tiller started and ran OK earlier this year. Loaned it to a friend a few weeks back and they brought it back. Went to use it this morning, and it was running rough. I Filled tank, and just happened to start it with the gas cap off. The MOMENT the gas cap sat tight against the tank the motor (now with choke off) shut off. Tried it 3 or 4 times with the same shut down result. Disassembled the cap as far as it would go and cleaned things up, but there is no visible vent hole. Still shut right down. Drilled a 1/16 hole thru a likely section of the cap and it runs fine. I would have done a fuel pressure and delivery test, but the carb is integral with the fuel tank.

 

Ditto a bad coil..... "New" ,..."only means it's shiney..." Same for a condenser........

4TTRUK

 

If the idle mix is set pretty rich (or float level is high or needle seat seeps, or XXXX) engines start and run cold OK. When the engine is warm rough running and stalling can be expected.

I'd do a few tests to ID if I have an ignition or a fuel problem (or very long shot, both).
Plenty to do before replacing any parts "just because."
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/1953-1960-trouble-guide.cfm

 

i changed the carb with a 2 barrel and an adapter, still have the same problem, so its definetly ignition. bought a new coil but the battery is losing power, so im gonna charge it and try it then.... the car gets gas regardless so its not vapor lock, it will shut off even as i spray carb cleaner on it...

 

ran the new coil, same problem

 

Mine was a bad resistor wire.

 

Check your voltage at coil . Should be what, 9 volts?

 

can i replace the wire with a resistor? getting under the dash is a pita, lol. voltage was 7 volts until it shut off. i couldnt test after because im working on it by myself

 

Does it "shut off" abruptly,...as if you turned the ign switch "off",..or does it act as if you were running out of gas ? An abrupt shutdown means ignition...the other indicates a fuel issue.

You can run a resistor,...be sure to run a new wire from the replacement resistor, to the coil. You don't need to double the resistance.

4TTRUK

 

yes it shuts off abruptly. Im looking at finding a resistor i can run but having a hard time finding the specs off of one, that way i can get rid of the resistor wire and run the ballast resistor.

 

oh and the bad part is that on my fairlane the resistor wire is under the dash so its gonna bust my back pulling it out, lol

 

some sort of strange wiring issue?

electric fan?

 

Are you sure you got a points coil and not a electronic ignition coil. Makes a diffence. Electronic coil is like a 3 ohm and points 6 ohm. I think that's the way it goes.Petronics will run on a points coil.
7 volts with a voltmeter on the coil? with the motor not running but just with key on? Seems abit low. It will run till you rev it and might break up but shouldn't stall.

 

its a points coil. fomoco manual says to replace wire if under 6.6... im having a hard time finding the wire since its not shielded like i thought it to be... im starting to be very frustrated by this car..

 

Actually fomoco manual says to replace if ABOVE 6.6...

 

I noticed in one of your posts that the battery is losing power. Why? from cranking?, or is it not charging?

 

From cranking...