i watched this series of patch panel videos and i wasn't impressed at all. this doesn't seem like the right way to do the job. am i wrong? http://youtu.be/RUFOOmun07I
I only watched the first one. sounds like he is cutting out the rust and **** welding in new patch panels. what did I miss in the other episodes? one thing... wear hearing protection. those air cutoff wheels and air hammers kill your ears.
He was being rather delicate. You wouldn't be that slow in a regular shop. But after all he was making a video and going slow to show how it's done.
he's got the basic idea right. I only watched the first one, so i cant judge too much. His "measuring" system didn't seem all that great but again, i didn't watch him fit the final panel. I've always been under the mentality that you should disturb as little of the body as you need to fix the rust. I guess, what's you question? what weren't you impressed by? Is there something in particular?
i wasn't impressed with the other videos how he cuts and welds the patch for the inner and outer panels. to me it looks very sloppy. is flanging really a good idea?
i'll have to check out those other videos. in a floor, flanging is fine, but in the middle of a panel, my opinion, NO
Thats a far away from proper panel repairing in my books.Lapwelding the patch panels? Right...Only way to do that is ****welding them.That video was 4 yrs old,so probably there is some rust issues on the same spots again.
he wasn't being all that delicate at all. His repair was good and solid but not high end at all. He alludes to that in the videos.
Not all "craftsman" are created equal...that being said I have seen worse, saw people fired for less, and expect alot more...your already there, you may as well take a little extra time & do it the best you can...just my 2c..Shawn
Some people don't care how they weld a panel in either ! I am repairing mine now due to the last owners mess of really bad metal work . I do it this way , I cut out the bad and make a new panel . I BUT WELD ONLY ! Lap welds are just asking for condensation to hide between the two metals and start rusting all over again ! When but welding make sure you leave a small gap between the pieces so the weld will have a place to go to make a good strong weld . I tack weld the panel in place then I do a s***ch weld to finish up the welding . Then I grind the welds down . Then finish with a light skim coat of filler or lead which ever you are using . That's pretty much it . Just make sure yo not heat the panel up too much . A sponge with water or a spray bottle on a fan spray can cool the metal down too . I have also used a air gun which will work too . Just do whatever works best for you to keep the metal cool . If you are not in a hurry then just keep moving from one place to the other and let the metal cool down its self . Just take your time ! Retro Jim
i agree on ****welding being much better. the work you have done to your own car is far better as far as my inexperienced eye can tell. i read the entire thread about your car and i have nothing but respect for the work you have done.
i agree, shawn and i question if someone does work like he did in the videos if it's even possible for them to do what i consider to be quality work.
I have patch panel repair sections to metal finished end result on my web site with photos . www.themetalsurgeon.com
I like but welds too .....but some times that extra metal from having a overlaped (flanged) joint can keep a large panel from warping all to **** when welded. I know that guy hes from texas.
thanks for the detailed explanations, jim. rust was mentioned but it didn't click exactly why lap welding would be a problem. thanks for taking the time to explain why! is the reason tig is preferred over mig by some for sheet metal because it uses less heat and warps less? probably increased welding time is miniscule compared to trying to deal with warped metal from too much heat?
Great thread. I learned the hard way (as a kid) the heartbreak of making a wheel arch look great, then seeing the rust start to ruin it a year or two later (I had to do it again, but RIGHT). So, I'm a big believer in going slow, and "inner" coat with rust proofing. More rust starts from the INSIDE than from the outside, especially MoPars. Once you seal that off, it's darn hard to create access to rustproof. And by the time the rust breaks out again, it's too late. Just go slow & do it the best you can. If you don't have confidence, then maybe get somebody who does it all the time, and talk to guys who've had work done by him before your shell outlong GREEN.
The Metal sugeon is definately at the other end of the spectrum....that is the type of work I was trained on when I was apprenticing....no pre fabbed pannels, make your own , and gas weld them in , while hammer welding....only after succesfully completing several projects was I able to start using the TIG welder...spent the better part of 2 weeks in the trunk of a studebaker hawk , silicon bronzing the fins on & metalfinishing it all out, only to start on the trim holes the following week....Shawn
i'm thinking of buying this DVD and practicing on patching junk panels. there is just something about this guys approach that makes me feel comfortable. whether i can learn to do it this way i'm not sure but i'm prepared to spend a ton of my free time trying. http://youtu.be/IGElSHzm0q8
Hey, The cat who produces this viedo is fellow Hamber ''mindover'' and produces some top drawer, real deal metal work! " Meanwhyle, back onboard The Tainted Pork "
Excellent video, I did a review on it about three years ago. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373568&highlight=tutorial
is there some reason this DVD doesn't have a US distributor for it or can't be downloaded after paying in US dollars for it? think it would be nice if an active h.a.m.b. member solid it in the US.
Alot of pro shops use the flange/spotweld method because it's quicker and strongerer....and still guarantee their work for the life of the car. That being said, most of the work being done in shops nowadays involves replacing an entire panel, rather than patching a section. Tonnes of factory vehicles are lapped/spotwelded....not in the middle of a panel mind you, but it's done at for production value and strength. If the metal is property prepared, from start to final paint, it shouldn't rust. ****-welding panels and grinding flush is really finite work that most hobby guys underestimate. Things can get really ugly and F'd up if you're not "slick with the skills"
I don't think some people have the full concept of repairing panels. The PO of my 53 ad truck is a cl***ic example.
in my opinion this is very well put. i want to approach everything i do with build skills first no matter how long it takes to build the skills. in the past when i didn't approach things this way i ended up very unsatisfied with no sense of pride. from what i can tell mig welding patch panels is not the way i wish to go because the welds seem like they are too hard to work. in the past when i mig welded a patch i was not happy at all with how much work it took to grind down the mig weld. i think gas welding might be a much better approach for what i want to accomplish. any suggestions for a torch and regulators for gas welding patch panels? i have read that you need low pressure regulars and i have also read that the meco midget is good for patch panels. looking for other suggestions.
i think so as well. just don't like the idea that i can't buy his dvd in the US or pay him in US dollars so i can download it. i guess i'm too new school as i've moved all my cd's and dvd's to hard drives.
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