I can't speak specifically about your swap, but normally, the flywheel stays with the engine. You use the clutch cover (pressure plate) that fits the flywheel, the clutch plate (friction plate) is normally selected to match the diameter of the original clutch but matching the spline on the trans input. Now don't take this the wrong way, but this is not an easy job, unless someone has a kit to do the exact swap, and has done all the homework. If this is a bit of a one off with no real precedent, then it may be quite hard to achieve, even for someone with more experience. Here's the ideal scenario: Use the flywheel, pressure plate and bellhousing from your old motor. The new trans will bolt right up to the old bellhousing. The dimensions of the input shaft and front of the trans all match the old one. The rear mount of the trans falls in the same place as the old one. The length of the trans is the same as the old one. The driveshaft yoke is the same as the old one. The speedo output of the new trans is compatible with what you have. Ok, that's quite a list, and if you know the answer to every point is yes, or you know what you have to do in every situation to make it work, then you are going to struggle. The bottom line is that the T5 will give you overdrive and a better ratio spread in the intermediate gears. If you tend to do a lot of interstate travelling it would be worth it. If the car is only normally used locally the lack of overdrive is probably not a big handicap. I am sort of guessing you are young and a beginner. I personally think you have done pretty well to have pulled it apart after the initial problem. Weigh it up - fix the existing trans (get a trans shop to help with a replacement tail housing) get it back in there, new UJ's, yolk if needed, a balance job on the driveshaft and get back to driving it. Or go through what could be a difficult and unprecedented swap with limited experience and facilities and possibly never actually finish it. A T5 would be nice, but it's a "nice to have" rather than a "must have". My comments are made irrespective of your gender. Mart.
The new trans will bolt right up to the old bellhousing. -Yes The dimensions of the input shaft and front of the trans all match the old one. -Diameter yes, length no, but they do sell an adapter. The rear mount of the trans falls in the same place as the old one. -with the adapter no, but welders in family can make one. The length of the trans is the same as the old one. -yes approx. The driveshaft yoke is the same as the old one. -no, mine had a 25 spline, so I'd have to buy a new yoke. The speedo output of the new trans is compatible with what you have. -that I don't know, but hey who needs a speedo So, I figure it's doable. Thanks for clearing up the flywheel thing though, I was beginning to think that was going to cause a problem. Worst case scenario. I screw it up. I come from a car family and even though I am attempting this feat solo, I do have resources available in case it goes south. I kinda want to do the swap and then tell all the men in my family hey, look what I just did in my single car garage.
Just have the flywheel surfaced, unless it has been damaged badly. A quick pass on the flywheel grinder & back in the game. Pay close attention to the pilot bearing diameter & condition. 2.3L fords are metric. While the size may look close it may not be the same. Use a micrometer to measure the bearing area on the very end of both input shafts. Special bearings or adaptor sleeves can be used if necessary to make things fit. B.
Use a magnet to check the freeze plugs in the back of the block. If they are STEEL, NOW would be a good time to drain the coolant and replace them with brass plugs, before the flywheel and clutch goes back in. Ask me how I know... Stay the course, young lady! Good Luck, Tim
Hey Oakmckinley, is your input shaft longer or shorter than the original? If it's longer, having it cut down may be better than an adapter.
Good advice, I was eyeing it when I was in there and it's not leaking, but better be safe than sorry.
Some more good advice, do I just drag the whole thing to a machine shop or can a tranny place do it? And if it's cut, seeing that the very end is tapered is that going to cause a problem fitting in the block? I need to measure but it would need to be cut approx. 1". Thanks everyone for your support, and encouragment.
So what is too badly damaged? maybe I should post a pic. it has some slight wearing on the teeth. Assuming it was the starter gear, I rebuilt the starter. Thanks
Two more areas you need to check and compare on the 5-speed vs. the 3-sp. are the bolt holes to the bell housing, and the large collar around the input shaft that sets inside the bell. The holes might need to be re-drilled; the collar turned down or a sleeve made to locate the trannie to the bell correctly. Also compare the pilot bushings for both trannies, as there might be some machining required there too to make one of them work. Pick up a cheap digital caliper from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight. They are damn handy for these kinds of projects, along with a GOOD 6" scale (GENERAL brand - Lowe's or H-D). Come up with a written description with drawings/pictures of what you need, before you shop it around to several machine shops. The shop will know EXACTLY what you need and can bid the job fairly. Maybe start a new thread to find a HAMB - friendly shop in your area. Remember the old carpender's rule - MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE!!! When I "stab" a trannie back in a car, two of my best friends are a pair of cheap 6" bolts I thread into the bell as alignment pins (after cutting the bolt heads off). If 6's are too long, try a 5 or a 4". CHEAP, and worth every penny! If the saddle comes off your floor jack, you can also make a lo-buck/no-buck trans adapter from 1/2" plywood or OBS scrap that can be bolted on to the jack as a platform. I made one measuring 12 x 15", with 2x4 pillow blocks (cut at a 30 degree angle) screwed down to two 4x12" strips (drywall screws - I don't do nails!) to keep the trans balanced. Set up the pillow blocks to fit the trannie with it on the bench. For years, I've gambled with balancing a trannie on a floor jack, without dropping it and snapping a mounting ear off... Hope these tips help...YOU GO GIRL!!! Take Care, Tim
Ring gear teeth get torn up when someone hits the starter with the engine running. Usually not the end of the world, just some burrs on the teeth. If the clutch surface is not worn with deep grooves it can be resurfaced. If the ring gear teeth have burrs, you can clean them up with a swiss file. It is not difficult, just time consuming. File a small chamfer on both sides of the gear tooth end where the starter drive enters. 264 little chamfers. Half a dozen strokes with a decent file for each chamfer. If the ring gear is badly trashed, it can be replaced, or you can replace the entire flywheel. Post some pics. B.
This project is indeed still in the works, in case anybody was wondering. I have the new (used) T5, and bought an adapter plate from modern driveline and it fits the bellhousing perfectly. I do plan on checking the bellhousing alignment with a caliper. I do have a question though about the pilot bearing. I pulled the old one out because the new trans uses a different size. The trans shaft measures 0.59" and the pilot bearing I found that is close is 0.63"?? Is that 4 hundreths gonna cause a problem? Also I was gonna remove the flywheel and cannot for the life of me budge the bolts. I am afraid if I put a breaker bar on there I'll bust the heads off and then I will be in deep @#$%. Or can I just resurface it while in the vehicle, it looks to have some surface rust but no deep groves or knicks. Thanks for the help
Ditto. get another tailshaft and bushing....Any good trans shop can take care of that,....Take the driveshaft yoke with you.... Happy Roddin' 4TTRUK
To get the flywheel bolts off, it is much easier if you use an impact wrench. Either air powered or an electric one. Those bolts are red lock tighted, meaning you have to use alot of force and or heat to get them to budge. The heat turns the solid locking compound on the threads back to a liquid allowing you to undo the bolts. If the flywheel is smooth and has no deep groves that catch you fingernail when you run your finger over it, you can get by with just a scuff and buff. Take some medium grit sand paper (about 200 grit) and scuff the shiny portion that looks like a band going around the center of the flat surface of the flywheel. Make sure to clean the flywheel and metal backing plate of dust and oily gunk. The dust is very bad for your lungs, you can get 99% of it off with several cans of brake cleaner, just use a pan under it to catch the run off. Dispose of it carefully also. Then scuff the flywheel until it looks like a dull grey. Clean the surface again with brake clean and then put on the clutch disc and pressure plate, make sure to not get any greasy marks on the flywheel, disc or pressure plate surface. Tighten the pressure plate bolts a little at a time and skipping around so the pressure plate goes on flat and not crooked by tightening one side all the way and then jumping to the other side of the plate. You will ruin the pressure plate like that. You will be able to move the disc around until you start to tighten the plate so make sure to line it up first with a clutch alignment tool. Most auto parts stores have that tool to loan out. It will keep the disc centered as you tighten the plate. Also pay attention to which side of the disc goes to the engine and what side goes toward the trans. It should be marked so look closely. Then like said earlier, use some cut off bolts to help you align the trans and shove that thing home. You might have to wiggle it the last few inch or so. DO NOT and I mean DO NOT use any of the stock bolts to pull the trans the last inch or so to make it tight. You will break something and it normally ends up being the trans housing. If it just won't go, there is a reason. Make sure nothing is between the engine and trans mounting surfaces like wiring or a hose, if anything, pull it out, regroup, double check everything and try again. If you get frustrated or mad, take a break. It is meant to go together, sometimes it takes longer but it will go. I have two girls and numerous nieces and nephews and that is the first rule of putting something back together that is taught by me to them. If it doesn't fit right, you are doing it wrong. Start over and find out why. Unless you are working on a Harley or custom type of Harley, then nothing fits, just get a bigger hammer, but that is a different thread and forum. Keep us updated and make sure to ask for help. There are no dumb questions, just dumb people pretending to know everything and screwing it up cuz they didn't ask. Now get out there and get it done.
That's 40 thousanths in car talk. Quite a bit in my opinion. Is there no aftermarket pilot bearing available? and it's a solid bushing, right? If you can't find the right one, one can be made on a simple lathe, using a bushing that has enough material to work with. But if someone makes the adapter, I'd think there must be the right bushing out there.
Just thought I'd post the status of this project. Well it's been quite a summer, seeing that I didn't even know what kind of trans I had to begin with. I did find all the parts with the correct sizing, I have installed a new roller pilot bearing, new self centering throwout bearing, new clutch disc, and of course the T5. I really had to muscle the T5 into place, you guys would be impressed, I lifted it to the correct height with a jack and then balanced it on stands while I crawled underneath and then lifted it into place. Phew what a job, now I know I can bench at least 75lbs . The placement of the shifter is great. I have removed the bench seat and put in newer buckets. Where I am at now is with the clutch linkage. I figured since I had it all installed I could push in the clutch and see how it felt and it went straight to the floor. Thats when I realized I needed to adjust the linkage and so I removed it and cleaned it all up and am just getting it back on.
Also, I need to make or have made a custom crossmember. I have the T5 in place now with some piping. I am wondering where to go to have something made? Also where can I support this? My fairlane doesn't have the crossbracing like an early mustang, and the framerails don't extend that far back? Hmmm??? Any ideas would be great, thanks!
Replace housing, bushing and seal......Your local trans shop can put one together for not too much $$ outlay. 4TTRUK
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