Alright, I have a 10.5 inch astro van clutch disk 3/4 inch wilwood master howe throwout bearing and a 70 camaro pressure plate. All this to put a 84 t5 behind a sbc in my 65 chevy truck. I ordered the bearing and the master from speedway with help from their tech guy. The master and the TOB are suppossed to be matched. And the seem to be working correctly. However my cutch isnt disengaing. I was able to start the truck in over drive but it was way to hard. Plus it seems like my clutch is going to engage way to early. I am posting some pictures. Hope they give an idea of what i am working with. Thanks in advance for any help. The last pic shows the clutch pedal in the truck depressed. The other two show the TOB with the clutch pedal released.
pic 3 looks like there IS a gap between PPlate and back side of disc, but NO gap at the flywheel? Have someone hold the pedal down to see if you can pry the disc away from the flywheel if there is a gap at the back. If it won't move back easy, I think the trans splines are bottomed out, and mashing the disc into the flywheel....or the tob guide tube is pushing the disc in.
Yeah i looked for yhe "flywheel side" sticker today when i took the trans out. I have at least a 32nd inch gap at the pplate, but nothing at the flywheel. And the splines cant bottom out, the shaft is smaller than the splines, go figure.
So, get under there and see if the disc will move away from the flywheel. Use a putty knife or table knife. It should move back no problem. If not, is the TOB snout hitting the disc?
Thx, i am home truck at shop. I know it wont move back. It has to be the input shaft. I will try that tomorrow. I measured the bearing retainer and it has plenty of room. I read somewhere of a guy who took a grinder to his clutch to clearence it for the input shaft
I took a die gringer and removed 1/8" more/less from the disc splines.You can also cut your splines longer.
Input shaft binding on pilot bearing ,input shaft splines binding on disk,trans TO bearing sleeve hitting the disk hub. Loosen all four trans mounting bolts enought to put 2 flat washers between trans and bell ,see what that does for you.
Did you use the shims that came with the throw out bearing to get zero clearance? A very slight pre-load is acceptable. The bearing doesn't have much travel and won't tolerate any clearance between the transmission and pressure plate. Bob
I recently did the "T-5 Fix" on a O/T Camaro where the clutch wouldn't disengage and it fixed it. Maybe this will help? --> http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/317767-stock-adjustable-master-cylinder-writeup.html If nothing else it may give you some guidance. Al in TN
When I converted my 57 Ford to a T5 the clutch wouldnt fully release either. I ended up taking 6 thin flat washers & shiming the pressure plate out from the flywheel. Been in there 2 years now & works fine.
When I put the T-5 in my Studebaker the new S-10 disc froze to the freshly turned flywheel. I couldn't figure it out for a while. I was doing other things and I didn't try to drive it for a couple of months. Anyway I put it in second gear and started the engine with the clutch in and the brakes locked up. That did it and the disc released from the flywheel and I have been driving it ever since after I readjust the linkage that I had tinkered with trying to get it to release until I realized that there was no problem with the linkage at all. It had me going for a while. Be careful if you try that... be prepared to shut it off if it doesn't work. I exhausted all possibilities prior to trying this.
Thx for all your help guys. This is my first custom clutch install. I ended up knockin the nub off the back side of the astro clutch ldisc like wingedexpress said. Everything works great now.
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