the chapest and safest way to lower a 50 chevy

was thinking bout lowering my 50 chevy, i lower cars before by cutting springs and adding blocks,i even lower a vw bug when i was in high school btw i lower it so much only i could ride it or it will s****e.. any help would help...thanks

 

Do some serious measuring on 53-62 Corvette front spindles. As I recall, they will lower the front of 49-54 Chevys. I'm sure they wont be cheap, but thats a story for another day.....

 

use some cement bags

 

Fat chicks. Lots of fat chicks.

 

I was going to say that but I was worried it wouldn't be P.C. but that's a good option. Another way is to let the air of the tires.

 

Blocks in the rear, cut coils in the front, but that won't get you too far. If you want to keep the stock suspension, you need dropped uprights.

 

You can lay frame if you give my ex-wife a ride.

 

my 52 had lowered uprights up front, de-arched rear springs and blocks out back. it was reasonably low.

you can put 53-54 uprights, stepped a-arms and lowered springs up front. the rear is limited by tire clearance.

check JAMCO suspension for kits.

 

Depending on your tire diameter of course, it is usually the axle limiting the rear. on my '50 2dr sedan I have original springs and 4" blocks and running 6.70-15 Firestones, which are reasonably tall. There are no bumpstops and the axle tube hits the frame before anything else. you can see a few s****es on the driveshaft tunnel as well from the rear end yoke.

 

You could do what one of my old neighbors did way many years ago.....he mixed up a few bags of cement and filled the trunk of his 51 Ply. He didn't even bother to remove the spare tire or jack.

True story.

 

I dropped my '53 3" with Jamco springs and blocks. That's about as low as I want to go given the ****py streets I drive on.

I'm happy.

~ Carl

 

Date a fat broad

 

some lols but yeah was thinking about dearching the rear leaf springs and changing the front springs,,,,,,,probably gonna change the uprights too

 

Cheap is cut springs in front and either blocks or dearched springs in back. How low is determined by the streets and driveways you have to drive on on a regular basis. If my truck was as low as it was in my avatar right now I couldn't get out my driveway onto the road so that's something to consider.

 

...or you could use the trick my knucklehead neighbor used back about 1960. He had a POS '49 Ford convertible that he was "fixin' on". One day I noticed that he had lowered the back for the speedboat look. A few days later, I saw it with the trunk open ... full of bricks.

 

I lowered mine about 5" front and rear fairly cheap. Pics in my album. Step the front arms, plenty of threads on this, and cut the coils on the front. The rear I used 3" blocks and removed a leaf. The springs being as old as the are have de-arched themselves. I did modify the lowers in the front to accept a different shock. The rear needs to be notched, even with the 3" blocks, if you use the old springs. As far as cheap; the only real cost was the blocks, about $80 with shipping. The front cost a couple hours and a few grinding blades. I don't remember what the shocks cost, but I did spend a little bit on them; sence-a-tracs for a mid 80s' monte carlo front and rear. I did buy new shackles and bushings for the rear springs just because mine didn't look to good, maybe another $100; this I don't remember.

Good Luck

 

Jamco is good if you are in no rush and arent worried about talking to anybody. Im on 5 weeks waiting for my order and they have only answered there phone once and returned one email. I will never order from them again