A question for the engineering type guys out there. I want to make this as strong as possible. I'm not going to use the in/out section. It will be direct drive. The case is cast aluminum, I already plan to replace the aluminum plate with stainless and mount it in four places instead of two. I have access to machine work so new input and out put shafts are doable. It's for my rear motor Falcon. Any way not to grenade this I do know it's been done and worked but I don't know what sort of modifications were done.
Not at all, It's a boat v drive. Power in from the motor and out the same side. Used to drive the prop. I want to use it on a rear motored car with a rear facing motor. Most wheel standers use a transfer case, but I have space issues and this is really compact. I think roller bearings are possible, thanks
check at the monster truck web sites check at the tracker pull web site they can tell what to do...look at links to the drive train maufacturers links ...send them photos shown here build a steel cage that bolts to the drive unit for added bracing >maybe a requirement by the tech inspection you need splines on shafts only see ket ways? treat it like a blower put steelplate covers on the bearings suggest you have a safety shield behind your head
Ummmm......most v drives drive a prop, right? Water is a lot more forgiving then asphalt. Will a boat v drive handle a wheel stander? I think not....
As Marvin alluded to...there is reason for concern. I'm not too worried about the case, since you're putting a big-***ed plate between them. That's gonna add a lot of support...especially if you ream the bolt-holes, and use long shoulder-bolts to act as dowels in all the holes and spread the torque-load. And if you make good shafts, those shouldn't be a problem. Roller bearings should be plenty strong...if there's enough land to install them. I'm mainly concerned about the gears. They look pretty thick, but I would do some research into the metallurgy. They may or may not be up to the task.
You know that aint gona work. The first time you get on it, boom. 80s Toyota transfer case. Just gona have to make room.
Well those v drives hold up to well over 1000hp in a boat so i don't think their should any problems with it, their are a lot of different gear sets to get the ratio you need and they also come lightened. the center plate is fine just use supports on both sides when you mount it. i am ***uming you a using a trans with it so you will not need the in and out. another thing you might consider is to use a straight through box without the in and out a little stronger. another thing you might want to run is a whirl-a-way, it is a one way sprague so if the motor locks up it will not want to turn the car over if the tc stays locked up. also their are different degrees boxes from 8* to 12* so if the angle is wrong you have a few choices. You might also want to run some cooler lines to it to keep the oil cool. On edit; After looking closer (put gl***es on!) That is a old Hallcraft, i would get a split case c***ale (as in the pic below) as they are a lot stronger than the hallcraft and have better bearings and a stronger case.
killing time looked at ebay...call unlimited marine of clearwater cal 95422 707 994 8600 this style has only 4 large 'splines' in your photo later models had more splines with only 1 key think made in 60s for engines like 292 fords ect.. see photo for photo with a ****ter shield........
A guy named Mark Madsen from wisconsin, who developed a funky distributor cap, had a street econoline with a blown BBC, used this very set up. Not sure it ever wheelied. Golden said 8 3/4 ring gears would strip if he got all four tires off the ground, when the rear tires made contact again. That's when he went to 1 ton rear ends. Shock loading kills stuff.
This thing has had a boat V-drive in it for 40+ years. No idea if it's the same type or size as the OP, but the theory is good... Tinbender, I can't really tell how wide the gears are, but 1 1/2" QC gears will take 900+ HP in the same type of case, with 36" of slick on the ground. I agree that dowelling it to a steel (or SS) plate will help a bunch.
The lakester I work on has a winters extreamliner quick change. It's the biggest quickie I have ever seen and it is not as reinforced and as heavy looking as the unit you have here. It runs ball bearings. We put 1200 HP thru it. It's bulletproof. I've seen wheelstanders that tour doing exibition runs. These guys make a living at it and they use blown alcohol motors that make around 1200 hp too. The cars don't break parts. They use a similar v-drive and aftermarket P-glides. Check out the "Superwinch" 34 Ford wheelstander. He claims to be the fastest. 8.30's, I think, on two wheels.
Thanks guys for taking the time to answer. I'd really like this to work. It will allow me to keep the back seats.If I end up using a transfer case it will be a two seater, like every car I own! FWIW have no plans to wheel stand the car. More of a rear motored street car. I hope it will lift the front on a hard launch, I may go to the track with it once or twice, but its intended use is street driving. Gears are 1" thick and show almost no wear. I can have them rockwell tested. It's overdriven 1 to 1.27 so I may change them. The bearings are 3/4" thick, FWIW the unit was behind a blown hemi in a drag boat.
also check with the guys at race-dezert.com there are a few Trophy Trucks that were made to work with those. They took tons of abuse.
The Jalopy Journal
