Oh no not another paint brush Model A roadster!!!!!!

A roller? Oh, well that's a WHOLE other thing! (Ha Ha kidding). It's all good IF the owner is pleased with the results.

I'm here cause I want to own a vehicle that looks a certain way and that pleases me. I'm NOT talking down someone else's preference. I love billet hotrods, low riders, Euro super cars - IF they're done well. I don't want to OWN one, but I admire them. I can appreciate them cause I'm a car guy.

 

I was thinking of doing the "Patina" look. I finally realized it was not for me. For some painting with a brush isn't fort them. I'm good with that. I just figured I would show you guys what I'm doing. I still don't know how it will turn out. Tomorrow I am going to start wet sanding.

 

Don't let anyone diss your paint job man. In the 80's I did custom paint on MANY motorcycles using brush as well as rattle cans and got hundreds of dollars for each one. I used only Schwinn paint from the local bike dealer. They had the prettiest candy colors out at the time. NO ONE ever guessed that my paint jobs were rattle can and brush. No paint job is better than the prep put into it.
I say go for it man...it's only paint....and besides....ugly cars don't run any worse than pretty ones...lol

 

I thought about that. I think auto paint is too thin.

Mike

 

Oh hell; Now your telling me that i don`t have to spend 10-15 grand for a decent paint job.maybe i can have the roadster on the road this summer after all!

 

I agree with you. Anyone who knows me knows that I do my own thing. If this turns out bad, I will be the first to admit it. The test panel I did looked pretty good. The whole idea behind this car was to build something nice but not too nice. I want to drive it and not be worried about it. I had the same plan when I built my sedan.

Mike

 

I have painted many many farm tractors over the years with a brush. Usually two to three coats and it looks excellent....no drips or runs, and when you get the hang of it with the second or third coat no brush marks either....
I did it due to cost, and didn't have a sprayer at the time..
Good thread here.
Cheers......

 

Have some paint left over fro my '28. Have to try the brush, cut & buff!

 

What brand brushes are some of you guys using? I have some serious interest in this

 

Nothin but cool. Good job.

 

It's time to advance brush painting technology. Let's see some candy or flake jobs done with a brush.

Bob

 

A similar post here recommended paint for boats because it flowed better with a brush or roller. Can anyone confirm this?

 

when I sprayed my truck with rustoleum the directions on the can said to thin with acetone
If I were brushing oil base I was trained to use a (china ) bristle only!
or a natural hair brush

 

I asked the paint guy at Dunn Edwards. I bought two sizes. At the home improvement stores the brush packaging states what they are to be used for.


Mike

 

no55mad, yes, I knew a guy that brush painted his fiberglass boat, about 23 footer. It looked great, no bursh strokes and it was very hard paint. the rustoluim paint will stay soft under the top. I don't know what the name of the boat paint was but it was some type of marine/boat paint. I'm not sure of the color choises you would have, most boats are white.

 

I have had lots of luck on tractors and trailers.

 

In early days 60s-70s, I painted and lettered early funny cars etc. Old sign painter taught me to add castor oil with eye dropper to lettering enamel. It made brush marks flow out as the enamel dried. It works I did it on many top drag cars. Google up Nolan Bros. Tribute , all those cars were done like that that had lettering. Those were the pre-urethan clear days when acrylic lacquer would raise enamel.

 

El Bombero, be sure to post more photos. I'm liking it!

 

I'm glad you did. Interesting to me.

My 29 was brush painted years ago and I may just sand and brush it myself. Old school shit like that is cool.

And to that one sarcastic "20 footer guy", I figure El Bombero may have the last laugh.

 

The color is called Bamboo. It's a 50s VW color. I think it's going to look really good with the black top

 

Thanks for the positivity.

 

Interlux Brightside is the boat paint usually mentioned in the brush painting threads. Pretty good color selection available.

 

I've been painting suspension arms, running gear and the chassis on my O/T trike. The body was resprayed at a mate's body shop and I could have done the chassis bits there but didn't want them to leave the workshop so that I could have more control over what stage in the refurbishment they were done. I decided to paint them myself using a satin tekaloid paint. I could have sprayed them using the simple set up I have here but decided to brush paint them as that's what the product is intended for.

I prepped the parts up as if I was having them sprayed - there's no short cut because you're brushing the paint on. You have to be just as careful to provide a dust free painting area. I spent a lot of time cleaning the paint area and wet the floor down while I was painting. You must use a top quality brush - I used a Purdey. I used uPol Easy One to fill the seams in the suspension arms and uPol Acid 8 to etch prime. I etch primed and undercoated and then did 3 top coats. The visible parts got a light sanding with 600 grit between the second and a third coats.

I'm very pleased with the finish - the degree of "satin" is just right, the brush marks drop out after ten minutes, it's touch dry in 2 hours and overcoatable in 24 hours.

The advantages are no masking and no overspray. Amount of paint used is much less than spraying. Cost of the paint was £25 per litre for the top coat and £18 per litre for the undercoat. A Purdey brush is about £12 for a 1" brush.

Here's a few pictures - difficult to get images that show it properly but I'm very pleased with it. The grey is called "Raddle" and tones nicely with the lighter Morgan Sports Grey I've used for the body. The tekaloid came from Craftsmaster Paints UK. I'm going to use the gloss version to paint the Modified but will set up a temporary booth to get dust to an absolute minimium. Craftsmaster also do a clear brushing lacquer for use over their gloss paints.

I think painting my chassis and suspension has shown me that it is possible to get a good finish using a brush - subject to the right prep, good paint, good brushes and careful technique. I now would not hesitate to paint a car body as I can be certain to get a good finish that looks right on traditional vehicles. Someone who came to look at the bits yesterday thought they had been powdercoated - I agree with that, but they cost a fraction of the price to do.

It's also very easy to touch in. I know this because I was putting the front axle on using my crane and because I don't have 2 pairs of hands it swung around and scraped an arm. I rubbed it down with a medium 3M abrasive pad, wiped it with thinners and a tack rag then touched it in using a 1" brush and it's invisible.

I would have had enough paint to do the running gear at least twice and plenty left over for touching up but when I was making myself a coffee the cat very kindly knocked the paint tin over... One of the reasons why decanting just enough for the job into a paint kettle is a good idea.





Springs were an absolute pain to paint with a brush - the only difficult bit really.



Driveshafts hanging around for a 3rd coat....

 

Very cool...

Cant wait to see it.

 

Quality boat paint isn't cheap but many really nice boats are still painted by rolling and tipping. Putting the paint on with a roller followed by a helper using a brush.
Here is one link with a video http://liambean.hubpages.com/hub/Roll-and-Tip-Method-of-Painting

This guy does the tipping with the brush in one direction the way I learned when I was doing my sailboat. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTVVjzbA72U

 

As a cabinetmaker I finish all my own work, we spray almost everything. The one exception here in New England is that when I build cabinets for an old 1700s house I always use a brush finish because the spray perfection looks out of place, I use oil paints, thinned with Penetrol. Strain the paint thru a filter, we use Purdy brushes exclusively. Wash the brush thoroughly in thinner before you start, wipe surface gently with tack cloth, lay the paint down evenly, not too thick! Two and sometimes three coats sanded in between when they are completely dry. The real tuff thing is the slow dry time and contaminates landing in the tacky surface. You can try adding Japan drier to paint to accelerate dry time.
With the new PITA EPA restrictions it is getting harder to find oil paint, however the marine paint industry has no such restrictions, good colors, excellent flow but 80-100 bucks a gallon. Having said all that I probably will still spray my jalopy when it's done....Washington Blue!

 

I don't "SEE" a thing wrong with it. Dare to be different i say.....

 

Boat paint can be nasty stuff, too. You can lay it on pretty thick though.

 

You can also use the Farm implement enamal with reducer and hardener. With it being thin it takes a couple more coats, but it also flows out nice and dries quicker. The trick is to not dick around with it!

I watched the videos of boats guys doing the rolling and tipping, then tested it out on my frame and suspension pieces. I have not done a whole body yet, but I plan on it with in the next year.

Using the hardener should allow me to buff out a nice shine, if I choose to do so, so far I have not seen the need to "fix" what I have brushed on.

Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

 

Any updates on this?

I love this kind of stuff...