I did a search in the tech section, but didn't find the answer. I am planning on painting my first car. I need advise as to what type of paint would be good to use. I have around a $1000 to spend and have guns and compressor and a ton of plastic sheeting. The car is a 69 Mustang. I plan on painting it a nice silver or gun metal gray. I was thinking about using Dupont, because a dealer is near my house. What type of paint will hold up, and would work well with a notice for the money I have to spend?
We use used Dupont Centari with hardener alot, its fairly cheap, single stage,very wet looking, very forgiving and looks amazing!
Materials alone can reach $1000 now? Who the ****'s getting filthy ****ing rich? Are all the "Oil Guys" in paint too?
1000??? you could paint 2 cars or more with PPG base coat and clear for that much money..... basically it just comes down to how good of a paint job YOU do and how much time you spend PREPING the car, blocking the primer and wet sanding. you can literally make rustolium look good. anyway, i think spies hecker*spelling* has cheap but decent paint. but you can really use anything you want fo that much money.
I have never painted or priced out paint, so this is all new to me. I will have to buy all my materials including sand paper, tack cloth, metal prep, etc.... so having too much money is not a problem
The shops usually get a deal on the paint- but an individual will get the full tilt RAPIN when he buys....-I'd suggest PPG Delstar acrylic Enamel and their gloss hardener-it will prob run about 2-3 hundred with some reducer and[ laquer primer] and its thinner.Id say get an etch primer over its bare metal then use the above......It is great gloss and coverrs easily and is a little less apt to chip than Dupont Centari[also good] it also rubs well and resembles laquer if rubbed out.
For a first time painter, I'd suggest a non-metallic, acrylic enamel paint, whatever brand you prefer. Put lots of it on and be ready to color sand and buff for a few days. As long as you get good coverage over all the panels, you should be fine, orange peel, runs, dirt, bugs can all be color sanded out of your paint job, so don't freak out if it doesn't look perfect right after the spray. The last car I went out and bought paint for, I used Limco Supreme enamel on it (cheap **** but works nice), I bought sand paper, all the paint and reducers, fill primer, tack cloths, and even a new HVLP spray gun, cost me about $450 total. If you have $1000 set aside for paint, you'll be in real good shape, and probably have some money left over.
I tried these guys paint on my interior parts and so far so good. I used the Turbo Clear and Turbo Black 2K primer. I would think their other paints are good also. Don't look like they have much for colors, not sure. I'll will be getting more products from them though, Real fast shipping. http://southernpolyurethanes.com/ Jdee
If you go this direction in a metallic color, pick up a gallon of PPG's DAU 75 clear too. Color the car, then mix half clear/half Delstar color and go over it another coat or two, then top it with a final coat of straight clear. You get the ease/economy of enamel with the look and protection of base/clear No matter WHAT you buy medium or brand-wise, spend some time READING the LABELS and get product information sheets too, if you can. Too many people mess up by ***uming "paint in the gun, add some thinner, spray".....remember, you're messing with CHEMICALS. They can be real fickle sometimes.
smartshoppersinc.com IS the CHEAPEST I have ever found. $160 for a gallon of sandable primer 3qts paint and a gallon of clear. It is arcrylic enamel. I have painted three cars with the stuff. I its not deltron but It is a good quality paint. The only downside is you have to pick a color they stock. They do not mix colors at that price. I have never had a problem with them. Later Jason
I spent about $600 on materials to paint a car of similar size with PPG base coat clear coat system. I used the PPG DBC base coat and their value line Omni clear. The biggest advantage to the base coat clear coat system is that it is fairly easy to work with. If you make a mistake in the base you can sand it out and reshoot. The clear coat responds well to wet sanding and buffing so the same thing applies, if you shoot a run in it, block it down and buff it out. One of the bad things about the urethanes is the health risk. The clear is catalyzed with some bad stuff and you really should have a supplied air system to shoot a complete car. One of the others mentioned staying with the same manufacturer and reading all of the material sheets and I agree that that is the best idea. If you are going to use dupont or ppg then use their primers or sealers since you know that they will be compatible with the topcoats. Go see the local dealer and get all the information on the materials you are thinking of using and read carefully before spending your money. Good luck, Steve
Materials can be very expensive. I am doing body and paint on a friends 62 Nova right now, and I have reciepts for $2200 worth of materials. This includes sandpaper, all the metal etch, epoxy, primer, basecoat, clear and everything to do it. It can be done for less obviously, just showing you the other end of the spectrum. Clear per gallon-$450 Primer per gallon-250 well the list goes on......
I have used 5 star 2K line primer and clear with R-M base coat with no problems. I think the primer and clear were each about about $100 a sprayable gallon (including catalyst). The best thing is there is no complex mixture I think they are both 4:1. And the clear sands and polishes quite nicely. My $.02.
We do **** for about $3500, ***uming it needs some body work, but isn't wrecked, needing paint in the jambs and under the trunk, mostly old cars, and that's a ballpark figure but answers the question. A lot of other places are 5-6K and up.
We start at 5K for a respray, with minimal jamb work and depending on size of the car. We just did an MGB that was already gutted completely, and we chraged 5K to strip it, do the bodywork (no rust, so no real metal work) and paint it single stage solid blue inside and out. Im doing a 37 chevy truck right now, metal work was done and it was gutted and stripped already, but it had to be damn nice, and its forest green metallic and we charged 10K, but even at that we didnt color sand and buff the whole thing, just light sand and polish and dirt removal.
Hey Hell Fish, I wouldn't suggest that you spring for any big money automotive paint on this job at this time.....insted, since you havn't ever painted a complete vehicle that ya spray it in something Rustoleum like at $6.00 a quart. This is an alkyd enamel, like old time automotive enamel, comes in silver, ya can even tint it ta gunmetal colour, is easy ta shoot, and won't kill ya if yer stupid enough ta shoot it with out a good mask, or a poor fitting one. Learn about triggering the gun, spraying horazontal, as well as vertical surfaces, and how to solve problems when they pop up in the paint job. Make your mistakes at the $24.00 dollar level rather than the $160.00-$250.00+ a gallon level. Upon completion of the job ask your self.....what went wrong and why? Later ya can reshoot the vehicle in real automotive paint, ONCE ya have learned all ya can with out spendin' good money ta make mistakes with. Read and learn all ya can about spray ing, it will save ya a lot of greef.
i dont know much about dupaont but ppg has a lower grade single stage you can pic up for about 200 bucks called omni.....is this including primer sealer and all, or is the body work done?.....if you got a 1000 bucks just for paint ...id definatly go base coat, clear coat....silver isnt that expensive either...the most expensive colors are colors with alot of red and yellow(used to mix paint in a paint store) so thats what happend to my brain cells haha ....
Actually Spies Hecker is expensive. Its really good stuff but expensive. *Remember, your paint job is only as good as your preparation. Not just on the car but the area that your gonna paint it in too. Unless your gonna use a booth, then you got it made!
Yeah.. you can paint the car for about $30 per rattle-can coat. Slip some flat black in there to seal it, and go - Which is about what I did to mine, just to get it looking semi-reasonable, grey primer below the belt all around except the driver's door (which has a million tiny rust spots and needs a lot of prep work to paint it right). Found some sandpaper in K-mart for the clearance price of one dollar, too (same pack is $4.50 at Pep Boys), need to go back and clean them out. It needs too much bodywork to bother to do much more than this right now, would be a waste of money to paint it with anything nice.
JEEZE do you get some bad advice with this question! I think some of these guys think that a '69 Mustang is a beater car! When you get to your Dupont dealer, You'll find that they sell Nason clear - good shtuff for about $100 a gallon (that's enough to do your car). This allows you to buy base coat, which is real easy to shoot. Also pick up some epoxy primer to seal it with, & a GOOD mask. ***uming you don't need or have already done the body work, only other things you'll need are; tack cloth, 320 grit wet (for sanding before sealing with the epoxy & painting), two sponge pads for water sanding (a soft one & a stiffer but not too hard one) some 3/4" (about 4 rolls) & 2" (1 or 2 rolls) masking tape & 18" masking paper, & some paddles & strainers. Some 1000 grit wet, 3M rubbing compound (part #05933), 3M machine glaze (part #05937) & buffing/polishing sponge pads to finish it with. I know I'm forgetting a couple things but you get the idea. Get good quality masking tape not the cheap shtuff! Make sure you sand every nook & cranny, & right up to any edge - leave no shiny paint. Use the soft pad for rounded surfaces & the stiffer pad for flater surfaces - both with the 320 before painting & the 1000 before buffing. Any dirt you get in the epoxy or base coat you can sand out with the 1000 (& fog more on in the case of the base); any dirt/runs/screwups you get in the clear just ignore untill you sand & buff. Get the catalyst/hardner to make everything dry quickly in the temperature you will be shooting it in - that will reduce the dirt you get & reduce runs & such. Don't sand anything between coats: shoot the epoxy, let it flash; shoot the base (probably three coats), let it flash, shoot the clear. Be sure to get technical info on your products so you know what ratio to mix & how long between coats & such. Any dirt or runs you get in the clear sand smooth after it drys using a peice of paint paddle wrapped with the 1000 to flatten out the surface of the clear. Just take your time & be patient with everything & it'll look great. BTW: the first car I painted all over (well everything except the top) was a '65 Rambler American. Was white & I painted the bottom dark blue metallic. Arcrylic enamel had just came out (this was like '69 or '70); shot three coats on it in a sandy driveway - between wind gusts - using a VA***N CLEANER & the sprayer that came with it made for house paint or insecticides!!! One of the best paintjobs I've ever done: only thing wrong with it was a metallic run (not in the surface) along the sides of the hood ridge. The base-clear you'll be using is a lot eaiser to shoot. The hard part is in the prep. HTH, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!
OK: one of the things I forgot was the wax & grease remover - very important. Also make sure you have clean rags; old t-shirts or something. Red shop rags or those blue paper "shop towels" will not work! Some old towels for final polishing too (wiping off the excess). Don't wax it for at least a month - preferably two. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Easy on the Giggle Cream!
Most everthing you'll need for $160.00....Kirker brand paint made in NY...good stuff... www.smartshoppersinc.com
Anyone tried this stuff? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=63702&item=4563265449 some other color choices as well - like 60 bucks for a kit.
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