how many feet would i need to do the whole floor of my 51 chevy?also how sells this stuff and how much does it cost?thanks jason
Need at least 36 square feet. If you want to do more like the doors and such double it. I used 7 square feet in each door on my green truck! I have 40ft in it total! Here is an alternative www.secondskin.com they are just up the street from me, honest and high quality stuff. I used his Damplifier in my truck, same as Dynamat Extreme and thier Damplifier Pro is even better. I covered the Damplifier with some six sheets of Luxury Liner then carpet and I can tell you it raised the driveability enjoyment level up a whole hell of a lot!
"Ya think ya used enough dynamat there, Butch?" Sorry, obscure reference popped into my head and I had to let it out.
Nobody ever mentions Dynamat without getting a recommendation for another cheaper product that is supposed to perform equally well. You'd think Dynamat would be out of business by now, or would have adjusted their prices accordingly at least.
dynamat is pretty expensive ive never heard of this other damplifier, its prolly worth looking into if its cheaper. i think the going rate on dynamat is about 10$/ sq ft. i could be wrong on this though, its been awhile since ive looked into it.
Got any friends that work at Best Buy, or another electronics retailer?Find someone to get it for you, because the markup is usually pretty high.
Try "LIZARDSKIN", probably NOT cheaper, but it sprays on with a body schutz gun...guaranteed to LOWER firewall temps by at least 30 degrees and deadens sound...well, here, read it for yourself: <LI>Reduces engine and solar heat transfer by 25-30°F. <LI>Reduces noise by 10-12 decibels <LI>Forms continuous airtight, waterproof membrane or simply chek out: http://www.lizardskin.com/pages/about_lizardskin.htm
AHHAHAHHA, yeah uhmmm,, Its supposed to be www.secondskinaudio.com ,,, ahem. I flustered the hell out of the lizard skin guy at the LA Roadster show a year ago. I took his temperature probes off the surface of his display and held them two inches off the surface and there was ABSOLUTLEY NO DIFFERENCE IN TEMP! I think the stuff they use may block some heat but I belive it sheds heat just as fast, thus heating the compartement you are trying to insulate. Also not impressed with the Db reducing quality. For our intents and purposes the spray on stuff is marginal at best. I would use Second Skin's Spectrum or Lizard Skin's product as an undercoating but not as the sole panel dampening product.
i don't know what a damplifier is but... el polacko said it best. traditional dynamat is not going to really quiet down the interior of a '51 chevy. it will help the acoustic properties of a car's interior, so if you're running subs, consider dynamat, if not, use residential carpet padding. traditional dynamat is designed to turn the energy of a vibrating panel into heat, thereby reducing the vibration (notice i did not say eliminating the vibration). there is enough structure in and under the floor of a '51 to get rid of noise "vibration" anyway, one layer of dynamat will do nothing. when i used to compete on the car audio circuit a decade ago, i put three layers of dynamat on every interior surface of my import car, including the ceiling, it was slightly over four hundred pounds worth just on the interior. we also took off the fenders and put two layers inside of them, and two layers under the hood. that was almost another hundred pounds. we taped every seam on every layer with aluminum tape also. this much actually helps when you are running large and multiple subwoofers. like i said, use carpet padding on the floor, and use that heat reflecting mylar skinned foam product made by dynamat or another manufacturer on your car's ceiling (it's self adhesive). if you cruise around with the windows down like the rest of us, one layer of dynamat on the floor will do nothing. invest your money properly here, don't waste it where it will do you no good. tred.
Well El P, I've used LIzardskin...and it does EVERYTHING they say it does and I'll use it again...I'll even swear by it...it IS the easiest thing I've ever used...sure beats cutting and pasting and fitting...No, it's not the cheapest thing out there but it's that good!. So, if you've got four or eight hours or a couple of days to cut and paste dynamat or anything else of the ilk, have at it... You can please some of the people all the time, all of the people...oh, you've heard that one? R-
Roger, I'm not speaking out of nothing here. The dude at the booth got very agitated when I messed with his stuff, so I prompted to do a little bit more investigation on it. I compared his R value and Db rejection against other products and dollar for decibel and insulation, there are better products available. I have heard others compliment on the effectiveness from satisfied customers just like yourself. AND I have talked to people who were dissatisfied with the product as well when it came to adhesion, heat insulating and noise rejection. Surface prep is everything, whether its roll on, stick on or spray on it has to be clean. Most spray on products have an "open time" on them that I factor into my time spent on a project. It may take a few hours to lay down a nice job of the Dynamat product but its ready to go after application. And from personal experience I would give the nod to the Butyl rubber coated aluminum sheeting over the spray on stuff on both heat and sound dissapation/rejection. And on top of that, nothing beats layering different products! So if you want to go nuts, spray on Lizard skin then put down a few sheets of Dynamat type product, carpet felt and carpet. Undercoat it with spray in bedliner and use thermal blankets from hot water heaters inside the transmission tunnel and over the exhaust. Garauteed to block heat and noise! Too bad we can't put this stuff on the glass
I have both Dynamat and the Home Depot/Menards insulation (bubble wrap, covered in foil) in my Cit 2CV, and it cut down the heat and noise something considerable. I used the Dynamat for vibration/noise, and the insulation for heat sources (um, duh). Cosmo
I've always used $3.00 a can undercoating and it worked pretty damb well. I used to run big speakers and stuff and it seemed to do the trick. just spray the shit everywhere cause you cover it with upolstery anyways.
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