Guys I need some help with the brake pedal mount and motor mounts on my 32 <O</O I mounted my pedal setup today, per instruction 42.5 inches back from rad hole CL. Take a look at the pictures it looks to far back. <O</O Note that moving it forward would be very difficult , the center section tubes interfere. <O</O Also the motor mounts (SOCAL) mocked up at 12.25 back form rad hole CL, won't allow me to install the vega box. I would prefer not to butcher the firewall , 13.5 inches back on the mount location notes that the firewall will need to be cut for distributor clearence. <O</O Suggestions? Thanks!! <O</O </O
I have my notes at my shop, but if I remember correctly I mount my pedal asembly's center shaft 38" back from the radiator mount holes. The Deuce Frame Co gives you a measurement about three inches further back, but I have found that if you are using a stock firewall, the toe board lets you move the pedals forward about three inches (and that makes a hugh difference in leg room). I'll check the info back at the shop and post it here Tuesday when I am back to work. have a great Memorial Day.
I never buy kits. What might be the issue is that a kit might be set up to use long waterpump sbc's or multiple belts, so they shoved it all back for the streetrod type builds? By the way, mine has a huge early Olds Rocket and firewall is basically stock; just a tick trimmed where the center of the shelf-recess for the wood toeboard. Nothing else cut, not even for the dist.
Thanks Baron F&J the motor mount location 12.25 is for short. 13.5 for long. I will be using short. at 12.25 I really can't the vegas working at 12.25, the box hits the mount. anywatreally
Do you have enough parts to do a mock up? Complete eng/trans,fan, rad I thought there was a thread on 32 fit issues and I almost recall several said they got a stock size (points) distributor to clear, without a box cut for it.
Throw the instructions away and put it where it suits/works the best. Then build to it if you need to.
If that your final firewall position then yes it needs to come forward, heaps. work out the angle the pedal sits in the rest position, and the angled section of the pedal should be the same angle as the toeboard mount area, but sitting maybe an inch ahead of it. if that part of the pedal isnt "under" the toeboard, you are losing heaps of interior room, and making a hell of a job to build a floor around it. sorry, thats what you get with KITS. they are usually wrong.
I'm a huge fan of this 5Window body save,and somehow find this funny that the problems you now face are with new repro parts. I'm sure you'll get everything working. Bob
It is generally 40 3/4" from center of pivot to center of front cross member. But I have seen a variation in brake pedals from different manufacturers
My 32 Ford ch***is is a set of original rails with custom made crossmembers in the middle. My brake pedal pivots at the firewall bolt hole .. see photo
Put the pedal where it's supposed to be at the toe-board and modify the crossmember tube if it makes cap removal easier. Instructions for building a hot rod generally ****, in my opinion... too many variables even when using same parts.
Thanks Everyone!! a little more clarification, the firewall is bolted in it's final location. J capps- thanks, I measured 40 3/4 and it places the pivot point half way between the body holes, the pedal is now pivoting at the rear hole. This placement would be tricky with the tube setup. Duece Roadster thanks a bunch for the picture, this is abbout 5 inches forward of my current location. I will mock this up today and see what clearnece I get for the booster. The frame is a Jim Weimer, the tube center section has been a bear fromm the get go. The triangulated 4 bar (Hiedt's) did not fit (lower bars were too long)and I had to get out the sawszall and cut the bottom rear tubes. I believe Pete & Jakes would have by the way. It appears that now the front tubes will need to be modified.
I always use the type of firewall that is going to be used in the car to mockup the engine, trans and pedals. I have found over the past 30 years that most of the dimensions from a supplier like P&Js are for a set back firewall and not a stock one. When I have done the installation using this method it normally stops the phone calls.
For what its worth, I don't use measurements supplied by a manufacture. They never seem correct and I never place any trust in them. They are pretty much good as a general locating/ starting point and plan on fine tuning the location. Like Krylon 32 said mock up your frame with parts your going to use and then place the brake pedal ***embly where it fits best. Some reshaping of the mounting bracket may be necessary. This method has worked best for me.
As Krylon said, this the best way to do it. The measurement I have used many times is 38 1/4" to the center of the shaft. I usually push the motor back as far as I can with the stock firewall ,notching the right side just enough for valve cover clearance and some minor cutting on the left side. This will leave plenty of leg room (and plenty of space for your steering box mount.
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