Before i took it apart the timing gears were lined up and the rotor pointed to the p***enger front piston.i put it all back the same way and it doesnt even try to fire.any help? My first dodge motor so bare with me.
***uming you are getting ignition....did you properly index the engine, sure you didn't install the dizzy 180 out?
Check for pump shot in the carb and spark. If it has both of those, I'd start over on the ign. timing.
Probably got the distributor 180 out, check for compression on #1 cylinder and make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 terminal in the cap
Has fuel and ign.im not that stupid.my question i guess should be is it possible the drive gear is in wrong yet it still points were it was?
Number 1 wire on the distributor or number 1 piston in the engine? Do as AJMopar suggested and pull #1 plug and bump the engine over so that it blows compression up against your finger that you are holding over the plug hole. then line up the timing marks on the damper and timing tab and check the rotor to see if it is pointing at number one wire. It may take several tries to get it bumped around and come up on the right spot so don't get excited if it it doesn't hit right on the first time around. A remote starter ****on works great but a good helper with a light touch on the key is pretty good too. Also there are several engines that are set up so that the engine isn't on tdc on number one cylinder when you are lining up the timing marks on the cam and crank gears.
If you changed the cam, the drive gear would not index the same way as when you took it apart unless you had the crank at top dead centre on #1 on compression, otherwise you install the cam and with the crank at TDC and cam lined up, you put the gear in with the slot parallel to the crank shaft (front to back). Then when you put the distributor in you need to figure out if it #1 is on compression or exhaust and then point the rotor at #1 in the cap. Try popping out the distributor and putting it back in 180 in the other direction first, you might be surprised.
Okay i think i follow you. It pointed at #2 but the timing gears were lined up...what gives? The dampener never lined up to tdc with the rotor one #1..this is confusing
Consider reviewing the basics (which apply to any engine). The marks on the damper are fixed to the crank, changing cams does not alter that. ***uming that the cam is properly installed, then valve events will open and close in proper sequence. The intermediate gear, although nice when installed to Mopar design specs, can be installed in any position and the dizzy can be made to work with it. However, if the gear is installed so that the slot points to number 1 hole then it will be easier for everyone else to help simply because we are accustomed to that orientation. The relationship between the rotor position and the #1 plug wire is the only thing to make the spark occur at the plug. It will fire (or try to) only if all pieces are in their proper place (fuel-spark-air). If the gear needs to be realigned, then note how far out the rotation is, pull the dizzy, and with a long/large screwdriver back the gear out of cam engagement. Continue rotating the gear to a position close to but well ahead of the final/desired location. With slight downward pressure on the gear bump the key and see where you end up. The slight downward pressure will ensure engagement with the oil pump. Is it where you want it? If not, do it again or adjust the wires in the cap to suit your particular needs as to dist housing position. .
I hope I don't offend anybody by chiming in here but it seem like we have some Mopar intellectuals here and I need some timing advice (I think). This concerns a '55 Dodge 270 Hemi. It's completely rebuilt and balanced. It's being backed up by a '95 Dodge 46rh auto overdrive trans. and we're using a 318 torque converter that has no balance weights. Here's the situation. We have a vibration. It's a harmonic type that comes and go's with changing RPM's. The vehicle does NOT have to be moving. It does it in neutral and park. Now here is where the timing thing comes in. The vibration was pretty serious at about 1100 RPM. Not teeth chattereing but really annoying. Tried different things like adding some weights to the flywheel to see if anything would change, thinking that the only thing rotating when in nuetral is the torque convertor and flywheel. Than while listening to the exhaust one day and noticing that it seemed to be idling a little rough I decided to adjust the timing. I seem as though by adjusting on the timing the vibration seemed to be less. I now have it advanced as far as it can go ( a little more than stock) and the vibration is a lot less and seems that it only starts to appear at about 2000 RPM. ( With the OD.trans. at 65 mph. I'm running at 1800 RPM.). I have driven this vehicle over 20,000 miles like this with absolutely no problems. but this just doesn't seem right. I've taken highway trips of over 10 hrs. some over 2000 miles and all seems well. BUT ???? TO HELP[OUT WITH ANY CONFUSION COULD YOU PLEASE ANSWER THIS ON TREAD CALLED "55 Hemi Vibration. Thank you ...
OK !!! I forgot to mention. You're talking with a bodyman here not a mechanic. I do know enpough to almost get in trouble with mechanicals. So with that said ... Whats a damper ???
HOLD IT! HOLD IT! -- I think I know what a damper is .... Hey, bear with me. My last name ends in SKI ... OK on that damper. I'm betting that's the harmonic balancer you're asking about. Well it is the brand new balancer from Hot Heads Hemi. It's they're modified balancer from the 340 engine. How Am I doing ???? TO AVOID ANY CONFUSION PLEASE ANSWER THIS ON TREAD CALLED "55 Hemi viration . Thank you ...
Providing you installed the cam correctly, take off the driver's side valve cover and watch the valve action to get close to top dead center on #1. Once you are there, look at the timing maker on the timing cover and set the timing mark on the balancer to about 8 degrees before TDC. Pull distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. It should be right at #1. You will probably need to index the pump drive to get it exactly at #1.
That means you will have to go back and do what AJmopar suggested. First though you have to bring the engine around on compression on number one cylinder and get the timing mark on the vibration damper or what ever it is called in you hood lined up with the correct mark on the timing tab. If the rotor is not pointing to Number one on the cap you have to do as he said and pull the distributor and pull the drive gear and turn the drive gear enough teeth in the right direction to move the rotor over to where you want it after you put the distributor back in. As AJmopar also said, don't expect to get it spot on the first time as even guys with a lot of experience miss the first time or two quite often. And Da Dodge Bro I'm sorry but you should have started your own thread on this rather than jacking this thread. Model A Hooligan is confused enough as it is without getting the thread off topic.
OK didn't mean to offend anyone. I'll do another and we'll see what answers we get there. I'll label it '55 hemi vibration.
From the drivers seat, as I recall the oil pump drive gear notch points to the right front intake bolt with balancer tdc and #1 piston up, the dist. then should point to #1 on dist cap, or was that a 440? its hell getting old.
None of us here knows the extent of your experience so bear with us if we ask simple questions. The helical gear on the cam and distributor means that the distributor turns as it is removed and installed. It can be difficult to get it to drop in where it was. If you didn't turn the crankshaft, it should be close to where it came out.
Theres a lot to take in here.ill read again all the info you fellas posted and get back to you guys.thanks for the info
Cam can kinda only go in one way,so i think the distributor is out of wack.the timing gears lined up the dots so i think im okay there.didnt turn the crank from when i took the old cam out.lined the new cam up.seems like the distributor could only go in correct or 180 out seeing as how it has the slot.
Hooligan Did you figure it out? If not, PM me I'll give you my phone number and walk you thru it if you like.
Yes, but the intermediate shaft with the gear can go in in multiple positions, which will change the orientation of the slot. Common practice with a Mopar (if you've had the gear out) is put the engine at #1 TDC on compression, drop the dist. in, set base timing to fire, and start wiring the cap at whichever tower the rotor is under. Otherwise, you'll have to pull the shaft back out and re-set the slot position.
Exwestracer- i get ya.i think ill try that,or see what happens when i drop it in 180. Monc440 thanks a bunch.i havnt messed with it(car is out of town)
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