OH-OH, the intro police will be along shortly for two violations. First, no intro, second, compounding the first, promoting your services, or the possible appearance of doing so.
Here is a link to a very very tough clear, It is pretty much scratch resistant, i have a test panel i kep at my shop and you can actual try to key it and it doesnt dig in at all if any thing a scratch you can barely see. I posted this for all those who were looking for something to hjold up over the chrome. I use it over helmets, custom paint and airbrushed motorcycle parts........BEWARE if you have any flaws, or runs with this clear it must be sanded and polished within 24-36 hours or good luck because after 72 hours 320 on a DA doesnt even touch it. Also its a bit spendy and oh yea its chemical resistent also
Thank you Nicamarvin i think i will be trying the DIY instead of the order i was about to place with Alsa, big difference in price and your pieces look great. I paint for a living and hats off to ya buddy.
Dang FNG, way to make an appearance. Delete your post, go back and read the rules, and I would suggest you don't promote a damn thing until we have a clue as to who you are.
Not Promoting just something i have came across in the last couple of years and seems to work great for durability. And what would you like to know Buzz (intro Police) an open book here.
BTW: you still should go into the intro section and introduce yourself...we all did it, it's cool to see who responds and gives other members a chance to get an idea of who you are.
thanks for the help buddy, the thing is I am locked here in Nicaragua, I have to use what I have at hands, or pay the price to ship things to Nicaragua, but that brings the cost upto 50% higher.. but thanks anyways...
Maybe I missed something here but doesn't Eastwood have something like this in there podercoating system?
they have chrome like powder paints, the best of them can look like polished aluminum, but nothing like real chrome
I just did a High Heat Temp Spray On Chrome Pice.... you may want to check it out... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7868358&postcount=206
Just to say a quick Hi to all. I just joined this forum because I find myself in exactly the same boat as Nicamarvin and I know just where he's coming from. I'm also in a 3rd-world country (Thailand - even though the country is arrogant enough to think that it's 1st world because everyone has cell phones and TVs) so I can relate to his attitude. Like him, I've also got to look for ways to compromise and find alternatives. I reckon he's doing an amazing job and am hanging on his every word. Right now I haven't even begun on a single thing. I live on a little tropical island (Koh Samui) which has a huge temporary tourist population, a tiny Thai population (50,000) and virtually no industry. I've just bought an excellent little mycyle but it's a rarity and original parts are impossible to find. And if you guys out there are bitchin about the costs of chroming - try this: a simple motorbike air cleaner cover (teardrop Harley style) is gonna cost me $100 to be re-chromed and take one month away on the mainland. That's why I'm looking to buy something to do it myself. The bike's not going to get hard use but it is going to get constant sun, an average temp of 30c and humidity around 75% and up. And any ways that Nicamarvin can find to experiment with - specially the final vital coating - is gonna relate exactly to my situation here in Thailand. Big respect man, keep it going! Rob
Having been doing a lot of armchair study on this, the problem with clear powder coating is that 1) it needs the full temp to liquify properly so maybe not good over silver nitrate 2) it ends up with a yellow color cast. To get round this people add just a touch of candycoat colour in with the mix. Lots of YouTube vids on this . . . R
Can't wait - this was exactly the system I was thinking of getting sent to Thailand - excepting that the shipping costs almost double the cost of the package. Thus seeing your results are important to me. It's a pity that you haven't come up with an intensive aging process that simulates one year of sun and humidity in just a week or so . . . R
Are you sure that angelgilding drip system works with metal? The website info says - "Use our simple siphon set-up to silver any non-flat, non-mettalic surface." ??? R
some updates guys.. after many months my gold tone chromed spoon has failed on me. I believe this to be caused by not enough silver.. as the rest of my spoons are just fine. gone bad Gold tone spoon Green Chrome spoon green chrome spoon...Flexible.. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/6FJCpt1vESA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> so far out of all my past clients only one have had issues with the chrome. the rest are doing just fine.
Anybody in SoCal doing this? I need this narrowed rr bumper done. I'm curious what something like this would cost me.
save your money guys i was in that business. had the big spray process cost thousands to setup. product looks great when done just like chrome. after 6 mos to a years 80 % fails. i've seen it go bad laying on the shelf and not even in use. company keep trying to improve it but same results. and it's really no good for outside like for car parts.
I believe you - sounds like you've invested a lot of time, cash and frustration in this process. And yet, I think if I keep my expectations really low, I might still be better off with spotty or peeling faux chrome than the "lunar surface" I have currently. The worst part is how the perfect, stainless spear on the door accentuates the transition to pot metal on the fender. It's like looking at a timeline of my complexion from 5th to 6th grade.
Thank you for that info. I appreciate it. They are charging $190 a wheel, for this stuff. Glad I didn't fall for it
hello guys my name is deavy and'm from belgium europe I'm here began a case spray chrome Now here I have a little problem with the topcoat, this way I can just peel off I have tried many brands but still runs wrong if it works only half Now therefore I became frustrated and I own the chemicals gan create and have therefore the ideal formula along with a proffesor composed only the topcoat is for me still a question how it is that this has no permanent adhesion to the silver I see something on the head One wetting agent 2rinse 3activate 4rinse 5silver 6rinse 7blow dry 8 wait 24 hours before topcoat This is the order that I follow, so what's wrong hopefully you guys can help me in her
ok guys need no more info have found a topcoat thad stiks like hell have done the test and have an adhesion from 10 kilo grams/cm2
I guess I'll chime in although I'm a little late to the discussion. I own a paint shop that has been applying the spray on chrome process for many years. Yes, it is a tricky process, and yes, it only holds up as good as a painted surface. It is a very good alternative to chrome, though, for a guy that cannot afford reproduction parts or afford to have his stuff re-chromed. It's also great for non-metallic surfaces. We primarily do motorcycle/racing helmets, but have done full grille assemblies on vintage cars, fiberglass bumpers for nostalgia drag guys, steel/aluminum/magnesium wheels, and even did a complete Indycar this year (that actually raced - it wasn't just a show piece). If anyone has questions, please feel free to PM me. I'd be happy to take a look at the pieces you'd like done and give you pricing. I can also send pictures of some of the pieces we've done.
hello mogara , you can look at mi website www.superchrome-designs.be whe ask for a 500sq/f products 1200$ grts davy f
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