I am going to try to find a frame and hopefully a body, something I can store and eventually start on. I imagine I will hold out for a coupe body, got a line on this frame, I am thinking it is a pick up? I am sure you guys will know, thanks! Tim
Depending on the price you can get that and part it out to a restorer and offset the cost. As others have said it is a Model A Ford frame, be sure to get the extra rear axle. Bob
Looks like a pretty big manifold heater on the other side of the engine. Take care of that item if you get it. Original splash pans under the engine as well. Restorers like them things too.
Probably nit picking but it looks to me like a Model A p***enger car and PICK UP ch***is (not truck as in big truck). Look for a serial number on the top of the left frame rail near the steeering but slightly under where it would have been hidden by the body. Here is a list of serial numbers http://mafca.com/data_eng_production.html. The serial number on the frame will be star, A, the number from the table, and a final star. The wheels in the photo look like '30-'31 19 inch wheels (the '28-'29 wheels were 21 inch). The frames were almost the same for all 4 years except the radiator mounting pads were slightly lower in '29-'29 and some of the brackets were different. Charlie Stephens
Like charlie said and the same number on the side of the driver side of block, then you use that VIN and if there is no red flaq when you go to apply for a lost registration (in NY) don't know about where you are, then you have paper on it. Of course you will have to keep the old engine for eternity, but small price to pay for the ***le.
In good shape, not rotted, bent etc, what do you think it is worth well a good buy on it? I likely will get it cheap.....then will store it until my other car projects are done, my 67 Camaro, my dads G***er-esque 68 Camaro and 69 Corvette So a model body should drop on my problem? I would like to find a coupe body for it...also dont mind modding another coupe body or the frame to accept another body..I do a lot of metal fabrication and welding, so if that is something that people do as far as body swaps..it is something I am open to. For instance swap on a similar year Chevy body, or even go as late as 32, 33, 34 Ford/Chevy, other body, is that realistic?
Any year Model A body will bolt onto that ch***is. Personally I wouldn't want to be into it for more than $500.00 based on the photos. Check the frame carefully for heavy rust pitting and any old repairs. On a really good day you may be able to sell off everything extra and have a frame for $100.00. That is how I look at it. Bob
That is what I am thinking The37Kid, going to check it out and go from there. So could a similar bodied car be retrofitted, say a 32 Chevy, 32 Plymouth coupe etc? or are dimensions way off? thanks, Tim
bump...anyone have thoughts on what year, other brand body might be able to swapped with some basic mods? i.e. not completely remaking the frame
IMO, a model A frame isn't all that well suited to use under the other models you ask about. and why would you presume, in the absence of such a body, that you won't have a frame that matches the body when you find it? seems to me you got the cart waaaaay before the horse. if you have so many projects ahead of this one, unless you can flip this frame and make a buck, you are wasting time, money and space on something you'll likely never use. ask me how i know. Ray
That frame is a 30-31 Model A Ford. The 2-tooth sector steering box, pressed steel runningboard brackets, round top u-bolts and crank bearing all say 30-31. Any year Model A Coupe, Roadster, Tudor Sedan, or Roadster Pickup or Closed Pickup Cab and Bed will fit it.
$500 is about right on for that, give or take, presuming the motor's set up tight like they usually are.
Wondering if this makes sense to get, say if I get it for a couple hundred bucks max...would it be worth building the frame, buy a body later?
Why would you want to swap on a Chevy body this day in age? That might have flown back in the middle of WWII when you had to piece together what you could come up with to have something to drive but it's rather cobbling things together now. If you can get the ch***is right strip it down, stash the frame and parts that you want to save and sell off the rest to get some or all of your initial investment back. Restorers are still looking for all of those pieces and while they may not bring a lot they will bring enough to get the cost down. If you can come out with the frame, front axle, wishbones and front an rear springs for 200 after all is said and done you probably would have done good. That's selling of the engine, trans rear end, brakes, wheels and other trinkets. Then you can be patient on waiting for a Model a coupe body to come along while you get some of the other projects out of the way.
The condition of the serial number on the frame is as much value as the frame itself. When the bolts got loose and the mounting pads wore into the frame, the numbers would be lost. Makes it difficult for obtaining a ***le. Neal
that is what I am thinking, get it, wait for a Ford Model A...I had asked about a Chevy body in case I found one... thanks Neal...where will I look to see if numbers are in place?
Top side of rail, drivers side. Right where the cowl is mounted. Can not be seen when the body is attached. Will probably need a wire brush or sandpaper to find the numbers. Neal
mschiffel,,,,think I am best off finding a more complete, half built, abandoned project? or even running car maybe? I am more than capable of doing a full build..which is what has me thinking, maybe get something more complete thanks for everyones input!
I have nevre paid more than 200.00 for an a frame, That is a fairly complete setup but The fact is it's for a model A, They work well under a T but the later body wont work right . ( in comparrision You could put a model T on an s-10 but it looks like **** ) Normally the best frame for a given body is the one it came with. You can pick up a brookeville A though....
The Jalopy Journal
