53 Chevy - brake light issue

I'm a little confused.

1953 Chevy 210 converted to 12v with stock wiring.

P***anger's side brake light is out. I check the bulb and it's good (works on the batt). No corrosion, good contact with ground and here is the kicker - The lead wire shows 12v on my electronic multimeter

I remove the bulb and put the socket in place, pull the back off giving my access to the lead wire, set the multimeter to 20v DC, ground wire to lamp socket, hot wire to lamp lead wire, have my daughter plunge the brake and the multimeter jumps to 12v. Put the bulb back in - NADDA!!

WTF??!!??

Thanks guys,
Carl

 

Socket not grounding?

 

The tad contact on the build is not making proper alignment with you light socket power tab. I've seen china bulbs where the solder tab is to short to touch.

 

The spring retracts when I put the bulb in but that sounds like a good theory. I'll look into it.

Thnx.

 

I had the same problem. I cleaned the socket and the other end with a scotchbrite pad. Works fine now.

 

I had the same issue with my after market 39 ford tail lights, also wasn't getting good ground. At one point I was actually putting the bulb in backwards too! I'm not saying your as dumb *** as me but it happens!

 

Did that - it's spotless but still no workie - thanks though!

 

It's only a one filament bulb, it can't be put in wrong. ...but yeah, I'm sure I could find a way to screw it up.

The ground checks out every time I check it.

 

You need four things
Good contact
Hot wire
Ground
American made bulbs

How can ya put a bulb in backwards ?
180 degrees off but never backward. It won't fit in the socket.

If all else fails go to a junk yard and grab some used sockets or go to your auto supple store and get new ones.

 

I don't understand that..
go in with your meter leads from the front (bulb installation side) and see if there is 12V from the hot center pin to the socket shell.

 

If you leave the metal bulb socket in place in the tail light fixture and gently turn the wire from the backside. The wire, insulator, small spring and hot contact will all release from the bulb socket. I attached a double sided alligator test wire to the "now in place" bulb socket and to the negative side of my multimeter. The positive side of the meter was connected to that "now free" hot lead. ...I hope that's clearer. Thnx

 

If the wire is also releasing from the socket along with the paper insulator you have a broken hot wire. You are supposed to have a 12 V wire all the way to the brake light switch.

 

in reference to post 11:

Yes that is what I thought but it is not real world, see N847's post at number 6.

OOPS I meant 325W post 3.....

 

Yes, I will check if the bulb is making contact - that would be an issue.

There isn't a paper insulator, it's hard plastic. I'll have to post some pics, but that you all for the help.

~ Carl

 

Im lost carl ........ with the bulb in the socket but not in the housing ...touch it to a clean ground on the floor of the trunk , while you daughter hits the brake ... if it works great ... now put it in the housing . if it doesnt light in the housing ..its the gound ... On mine i ran a ground to the back of the housing . hope that helps ,

 

I also had to run an extra ground to the housing itself as mine was working when it wanted to, Ever since I've had no issues.

 

Have seen China bulbs where the locator pins on the side of the bulb base were off in relation to the position of the two electrical connections on the bottom of the bulb. The bulb input connections would never line up with the socket. You can usually get these real cheap.

 

Update! It turns out that single-filament bulb doubles as brake/turn signal. When used as a brake it doesn't work, but when used as a turn signal it does work. So the issue is under my dash, not in the trunk. I'll trace the circuit to see where one interacts with the other and I should find my issue.

 

carl .. i texted ya . you should have a double filament bulb back there . one for brake and signal at the same time . add a ground . also pull the housing that holds the turn signal bar back towards you .. sometimes this cause my signals to act funny . hope this helps. Im your friend till yank vs boston then your on your own .

 

Thanks man! But I realy don't give a **** about the Yanks. You know I'm originally from New England don't you? Went to school in Kenmore Sq

 

haha ... learned something knew. do you have brake lights yet >???

 

Nope - soon

 

UPDATE! For anyone with a '53 Chevy this update might help if they have the same issue.

The '53 chevy has three single-filament bulbs in each taillight housing. The center one does double duty as brake light and turn signal light. Because of this the left and right lights DO NOT share a common lead wire. Instead a line from the brake switch AND a hot lead wire enter the TURN SIGNAL stalk. Depending on wether on not you step on the brakes or use the turn signal power is sent to the rear bulb. My issue was in the turn signal switch.

Just as I was getting ready to tear into it JAKE'S-Pumpkinella54 writes me and advises to wiggle the turn signal stalk around. He might look like Opara, but don't let that scare you, the man's a genius! Something was hung-up and is now free and working.

I owe you a beer in a Yankees cup my friend!

~ Carl

 

Outstanding. Ironically, I'm working on the brakes of a '53 right now myself, and I've bookmarked this thread for future reference. Along these lines, does anyone know where the pressure switch that hydraulically actuates the lights is located? (I think I've spotted it through one of the cutouts in the firewall, mounted next to the brake pedal linkage... 'izzat it?)

PS - Go Yankees (originally from N. New Jersey... no team of our own, so I've always been a Yanks fan.)

 

It's under the floor board by the brake pedal , it has a little arm that swings when hit by the brake pedal arm(i guess that's what you call it).