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Flathead question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bart78, Jun 5, 2012.

  1. Bart78
    Joined: May 11, 2011
    Posts: 717

    Bart78
    Member

    I picked up a flathead this weekend and tore it down and found rust on the top parts of a few cylinder. The old guy got it 40 years ago to put in a truck and never did. The whole rest of the motor looks new. No rust anywhere. Would it be ok to just have the cylendrs bored if I just want to stay prety close to stock. I will have him magma flux it first but all looks got to my eye.
     
  2. rrthiv
    Joined: May 3, 2011
    Posts: 84

    rrthiv
    Member
    from S.E.Ohio

    Main thing on the flatheads is to clean it up and check for cracks in the valve to cylinder area,#3 seems to be a bad spot on the ones i've had.
     
  3. roseville carl
    Joined: Dec 29, 2008
    Posts: 5,213

    roseville carl
    Member

    How bad is the rust and how deep is it. may be cleaned up and run as is....... any ring ridge or noticable wear?
     
  4. Bart78
    Joined: May 11, 2011
    Posts: 717

    Bart78
    Member

    There are some pits in it only the top inch or so on three of them. The under side of the pistons are nice and shiny. I am going to take the rest apart and clean it with washing soda and a batterie charger this weekend to get it real clean.
     
  5. J'st Wandering
    Joined: Jan 28, 2004
    Posts: 1,772

    J'st Wandering
    Member

    I had one with similar history. I took the heads off and it looked good inside. I rerung it, honed the walls, and checked the bearing clearance on a random rod and main. Bearings were good so never changed them. Motor runs very good.

    If the rust can be honed out, would save you on the boring.
     
  6. Bart78
    Joined: May 11, 2011
    Posts: 717

    Bart78
    Member

    I will try that. It was free so I can't get hurt on it.
     
  7. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,960

    the-rodster
    Member

  8. Bart78
    Joined: May 11, 2011
    Posts: 717

    Bart78
    Member

    Started the electrolysis stuff to day. I did one of the heads it took about three hours but it looks real good. Got every bit of rust and the old gasket off. Going to do the block this weekend.
     
  9. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,756

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    It may not be necessary to bore the cylinder. From what you say the engine was rebuilt then never run. The cylinder is not tapered or worn and the piston is new.

    If the rusted areas are not big enough to snag the rings you can hone the cylinder, put in new rings and run it.

    I knew an old timer who did this during WW2. He needed a truck, he found a six cylinder International cheap that had been left outside with the head off. He honed the pitted cylinders put it together with new rings and crossed his fingers. At that time NO new cars or trucks were available and even parts were hard to get.

    He said the engine ran well but burned a little oil for the first few hundred miles then settled down and ran like new.

    Some years later he took it apart to do a valve job. The pits were still there, filled solid with hard black carbon and polished smooth with the cylinder walls.

    Like I said, if the pitted areas are not too big I would chance it, on a street engine. If it is some kind of high buck racing deal it would be different.
     
  10. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,756

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Have also seen a 1972 Chev six cylinder pickup that was the same deal. In this case the truck had been off the road for years then a new owner put it back in commission. He drove it for several years, it ran well but burned oil. When we took it apart we found the cylinders pitted with rust but the pits filled in with carbon. You could see where the piston had been sitting in each cylinder by the ring of rust.

    The reason it burned oil was , the rings were all stuck in the grooves.

    We honed the cylinders, replaced the rings and it ran like new.
     

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