What are you engine builders using for hydraulic flat tappet motors at first start up and cam break-in these days? I see cans of break-in oil and cans of break-in oil additive. It's a flat tappet 440 Mopar, never been lit. I'll be spinning the oil pump and crankshaft to prime the motor before starting it.
Brad Penn 30wt BREAK IN. I added a 12 Oz bottle of additive.....lots of spring pressure on a flat tappet solid lifter combination.
Comp cams break in additive and Rotella. After the break in, drain the oil and put your regular oil in with some additive, the zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) will help preserve the lobes on the cam. I run additive in my engines for the first 500 miles just for cheap insurance as today's oils have very little or no ZDDP.
DIESEL OIL DOESN'T WORK, IT WONT PROTECT YOUR CAM. They took all the zinc out of it just like everything else so don't trust it.
New diesel oil has also been hit by the EPA, so it too has reduced Zinc. The only thing we use at work is a break in oil. Detergent oil + additive can actually reduce the effectiveness of the additive and make it useless.
BRAD PENN !!! Break-in 30wt and soft springs for about 25 minutes (10 or 11 gallons of methanol). Have had two hot rod guys in my shop in the past three weeks with flat camshafts. They did not believe that modern oil could be so weak in protecting flat tappet or hydraulic camshafts and lifters. Would never tell them "I told you so . . . . "
Walmarts finest 10-30 & a bottle of additive. Additive is less than 10 bucks. Been doing our motors this way for years...so far, so good. If you have dual springs, take out the inners for break period to relieve some of the spring pressure. If you have heavy duty single springs, install a set of lighter break in springs. You shouldn't be winding it up too much at first anyways. It is a pain in the ass but that's what the Comp cam people say. Also received similar instructions from well respected machine shop we use. Good luck Worken2much
x2 Rotella was reformulated when DPF's were added to trucks to meet '07 heavy diesel emission requirements. Lucas makes a cam break in additive to help compensate for low zinc in modern oils. I add half a bottle at every oil change.
Word I got from Comp Cam was high zinc oil(ex:Brad Penn) plus Comp cam break in additive. Run for 20 min @ 2000 RPM. Dump the oil. Refill with same oil combo. Run for 500 Mi. Change to whatever oil I preferred plus zinc if not a hi-zinc oil. DON'T idle the engine during the 20 min. break-in.
My machine shop suggested Bradd Penn "The Green Oil". Now I use zddp additive and Valvoline Racing Oil w/ Zinc. Reciently looked at my motor (due to a bad oil pressure regulator) after 500 + miles and the cam looks like I just put it in. Pulled a few main caps off too and their happy campers!
I asked this question of the guy who is currently doing our motors. He has built motors for a lot of racers, including Jungle Jim. He said he uses any quality oil and a bottle of zinc additive, like Comp Cams. So we broke in my Son's 468 Olds with Valvoline and a bottle of Lucas Break in Zinc additive. We will continue to put a half bottle of additive in with every oil change. Don
Not true. Read up and you tell me. Most all are 1000+ppm zinc. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=25&page=1 I run Mobil Delvac 1300 in my blown Inline 6.
..and fill her up with hot water too and let her warm up for 5 minutes first. That would be the radiator by the way .... well, you never know with some people ...
Well, apparently it has been working just fine, have yet to flatten a camshaft. Knock on wood. Also, if you notice, I said Rotella AND additive.
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