I have a bunch of questions and being new to this figured I would ask here. I have done alot of searches but I think my basic questions don't get talked about much. I just had the frame show up in NY so when I get home on leave in 2 weeks the fun begins. Here Goes: I am trying to find instructions for how to do a Key slot on the spring perch to lower shock mount? How do you choose the proper coil over rear spring weight 180 200 250? I am building a 1928 ford coupe, open fenders, Gas tank 50 liter (16 Gals aprox) and battery in the trunk. 10 bolt rear end. How would you mount a Mustang radiator in a 32 grill shell? Best way? New Questions see last My Post. I am sure I will have a ton of questions and I am pretty much on my own with this build so all the help I can get would be much appreciated. Here is a pic of the body I purchased about 2 years ago.
Are you wanting to add a key slot to keep the lower shock mount from rotating? If so, I wouldn't worry about it. None of mine are keyed and if I keep the lower nut torqued they seldom turn out of position. Even if they do, it isn't a huge deal to loosen the nut and reposition the mount straight again and retorque the nut. Spring rate: I have 140 pounders on the back of a rpu I am building and we just got them installed. They settled down an inch and a half under load, and I am running a heavier frame than you and a 394 Olds engine that weighs a ton. You won't want too stiff of coilovers as the ride will be pretty harsh. I know people use Mustang radiators, but IMO invest in a proper radiator made for your shell. It is an investment and looks so much better than using something that doesn't really fill up the shell properly. The one in my 27 was $ 700 over 20 years ago but is still going strong. Nowadays you can get a decent, custom made one for $ 400 that will cool like mad. Welcome home and enjoy your leave. Don
Don, Yes thats what speedway says in the discription for the lower shock mount to keep them from rotating. Also some one said to use 250# rear coil overs but I read that alot of people said they made for a stiff ride so I don't want to spend the money and have a ****py ride. The grill shell is and aftermarket repop of the 32. Not sure if that matter but I will look into the correct radiator. Thanks for the Help Mark Also does anyone know of a good place to find a diagram for how the wood roof kit would go in the top of a 28? And does anyone have some advise on how to properly store an engine it will be on a the frame with no radiator so i just want to make sure it won't get ruined sitting around for another year or 2. It will be inside but still want to make sure I put it away right.
If you go to a marine store they carry "Fogging Oil" which is designed to coat the insides of the cylinder walls with a heavy oil for long layups. You can spray it down the carb throat if the motor runs or down the sparkplug holes while you turn the engine over with a breaker bar if it doesn't run. Put a good dose in there, turn the motor over, and then reinstall the plugs to keep air out. Some people go to the trouble of loosening the rockers so the springs are not under a load, but for a year or two I never have. If you aren't opposed to an aluminum radiator, I like PRC. Their prices are good and they will custom make them to your specs. They also cool great. Don
The Motor is in my 65 ChevyII so it is a driver right now I will do that before I pull it. Also whats a good high zinc oil I want to do one good oil change before I yank it out.
Hardly any oils these days have enough zinc to work well with a flat tappet cam right out of the bottle. (Some say Brad Penn, etc, but I am talking about AutoZone available stuff). So I just buy my favorite brand of oil and mix in a bottle of zinc additive. Several companies make it but I have started using Lucas Zinc Additive and it seems to be doing it's job. I spoke to Lucas and they suggest using a whole bottle on initial break in and after 1,000 miles changing the oil and then using just half a bottle for every subsequent oil change. The oil feels very slippery when the Lucas stuff is in there and we have used it so far to fire up a 455 Olds engine and I will be using it on my 394 Olds too, as both have flat tappet cams. Rather than just pouring a bottle of it into the crankcase and letting it eventually blend, if the crankcase takes 5 quarts to fill it I take 4 quarts of oil and add the quart of Lucas to it and shake it up well so the Lucas is evenly distributed right from the start. I want the cam to get as much protection at all times as it can get. Now, here is the weird part: Not only should you change the oil before you store the motor, but change it immediately before firing it up after that one or two year layup. The reason is, acids will form from the oil being in contact with the metal of the engine and it will be best to get that out of there before you start it again. Some people will poo poo that suggestion, but I worked in the marine industry and we were always taught to do it that way after a boat was stored for even the off season. Oil is cheaper than any other part you will ever put in a motor so it is just cheap insurance. Hope this helps. Don
Don thanks that is great advise. Did you get the Lucas additive from an everyday store like autozone or do you have to order in online? Also will I need to do any thing special were the engine coolant goes or can I just fill it and plug the hoses? Thanks again for all the help I just don't want to mess this build up my kids will ride in this thing one day.
No, both AutoZone and Advance carry the Lucas Zinc Additive. Be careful as Lucas makes a bunch of different products but this one says on the bottle it is for engine breakins and has Zinc in it. As for the radiator coolant, I would do a 50/50 mix (especially since the car will be in a colder climate,) but Barrs Leaks sells a product for about $3.00 that is Waterpump lubricant and Antirust additive, add that to the 50/50 mix. It is excellent and since we have been using it the insides of our cooling systems stays clean as the day it was made. Also available at AZ and Advance Auto. As a final storage precaution I would spray the entire engine down with a heavy coat of WD40, spray everything in sight. Sounds like you are going to have fun with the kids when this thing is done, good luck. Don
I forgot to ask about mounting the Body to the frame is it as easy as building a braket using a rubber gromet and slaping the body on top or is it just solid mount the body to the frame?
There are a lot of ways to mount the body to the frame, some people use body webbing, some use rubber washers, etc. I have always used rubber bisquits that are about and inch and a half in diameter and about a half inch thick. You can get them at 4 x 4 shops, I think they use them to mount Jeep bodies on their frames. Cost is a buck or two each. I like to weld some 1/4 inch thick pieces of steel to the top of the frame rail then drill and tap 3/8 threads all the way through those pieces of steel and also the top of the frame rail. That gives you almost a half inch thickness of steel for threads. It is simply a matter of drilling some matching holes in the subframe of the body and p***ing a grade 8 bolt down through the rubber bisquit and into the frame. 2 or 3 per side is usually enought to hold it securely. That is just the way we do it, but other people have equally good ways of mounting theirs. Don
Don, Thanks again I am glad you have taken the time to help me out with some of my questions I am sure I will have more. I looked into the radiators and I was suprised at the fact that like you said I could get one made to fit and the prices weren't to much thru the roof. Well a week and half before I head home I can't wait. You said that just making the lower shock mounts good and tight will work with out the key slot? And just so I am clear change the oil add a half a bottle of Lucas Zinc additive and then run the engine and put the fogging oil down the carb while the engine is running. Also add the water pump lubricant and Antirust additive then pull the motor and just plug the hoses correct? And I think I am going to go with 160# coil overs from TCI cause they are the cheapest I can get for that low of weight. TCI says that they recomend 250# but if you are running 140# then that seems way to stiff to me. Thanks again
Yep, add the Lucas, run the engine for a while to circulate the oil, then bring the motor up to a semi high idle and start spraying the fogging oil down the carb throat. It will smoke like mad, and after a little bit shut it off, pull the plugs and shoot some more into each plug hole, then reinstall the plugs. I would add the antirust stuff to the antifreeze mix, and run the car with that in there (do it as the same time you do the fogging routine), then drain the entire cooling system. The antirust should coat the inside of the block and help keep it rustfree. I wish I was more of an expert on coil overs but I am not. I just picked the 140's because of some research I did before we bought ours. What was their reasoning for suggesting the 250's? That seems stiff to me, especially on a light hot rod, but they are the experts so they should know. We got the rear suspension on my rpu progect done tonight and it settled down 1.5 inches with the 140's and when my Son jumped up and down on the rear frame it seemed to move just enough to be comfortable. I would hate to go any stiffer, so I think your 160's might be about right. Don
Don any chance you have a 32 grill shell laying around I hate to ask but I need the measurements of the insert grill height and width. If you don't have one or the time to check no worries I am trying to make a lakester style one with holes (insert that is)
Does anyone know where to find the measurments of the grill insert on a 1932 Grill? I did a search found alot of the grill shell but nothing for the insert? Maybe even where I could get a full size pattern? Also do you just mount the radiator to the frame and attach the grill shell to that or am I missing something? Sorry new to this Hotrod stuff. Google and then speedway: Item measures 27-3/8" tall, 17" wide and bows out in the middle 2". Man I just bought 1500.00 in stuff to get my frame rolling an didn't even think to check those so um oh yes mounting the radiator and grill shell
Ok so I am not that sure on the Terms for body parts but I have noticed that I am possible missing these TRIM?? Pieces See Photo Sorry I stole this photo from the Darth Walter build
I used a Mustang radiator in my coupe build, and it works great, ('67 Mustang radiator at O'rielys is like $165.) I built a frame out 1"x1" box tubing and angle that the radiator mounts to and the frame bolts to the ch***is. Also, do you aready have the wood kit? If not I have a friend here in S.C. that makes them, they're not identical to the factory ones but he did the one in my coupe and has done several sedans as well. He sells the coupe kits for $250 and sedan kit for $275. He is a cabinet maker by trade and his kits are great quality and made of Cypress. Here is a link to the wood kits. http://killbillet.com/showthread.php?t=33431 Here is a link to my coupe build if you want to check it out for ideas: http://killbillet.com/showthread.php?t=24125 Here is a picture of my radiator mount...
TNT, I wound up going with an Aluminum 32 style radiator that was chopped 3" do to how low the body sits on the frame, made life alot easier and since I don't get alot of time to work on the coupe it is a big deal. Thanks thou I like the way you set up the mount. I talked to the guy that does the wood roofs they are nice but I think I am going to just fab it out of steel. How is the Hot Rod scene in SC I have been looking to move to Summerville in a few years. Anyone with any info for me on post #15?? Please
no trim in that area, I use 150-180# coil overs and thank you for using the radiator that fits the shell!
These were stamped into the standard coupes like the one I have (in the photo). You have a special coupe which had I believe a vinyl covering. Here's a neat build with one. You may have to make it.. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313751&highlight=logan+special
The back window panel I bought has the lower part stamped into it so I guess I will have to find someone willing to make these cause my metal skills don't exist and since finding the one I am missing I have been told is the hardest part to get for my car. Maybe I should start looking for the side windows with the stamped ones. Dreddybear that Special coupe is awesome thanks for sharing, I love your Coupe and I used alot of your photos for help so thanks for sharing your build on the HAMB
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