Pre-oil with pressure pot?

I've got a 235 that's been sitting inside for a few years after logging 3K miles on a fresh rebuild. I'm, of course, going to pre-oil it before I fire it up again but I'm wondering if I could use a pressure pot in the oil galleys instead of pulling the dizzy and spinning the pump? I know they do it on rebuilt plane motors and I don't see why it wouldn't work on the 6.
Here's the idea -
I removed the after market canister oil filter because it only filters about 10% of the oil and it is, in my opinion. a source of a potential hazard if a line breaks. I'm fine with doing 1000 mile oil changes.
I plugged the oil return line on the block and fitted the pressure port with an oil gauge.
Now I want to use the port where the gauge is fitted to pre-oil by making a pressure pot out of an old hard sided garden sprayer, filling it with oil and using 20-30# of pressure from my compressor to push this oil through the galleys, lubricating the bearings while I turn the motor over by hand a couple times. Once the pot's made and sitting under the bench it would save time with future pre-oils.
Any comments/suggestions?

Terry

 

Interesting idea. I can't see any downside, as long as you are filling the oil galleys up with oil under pressure it would seem logical that a good supply of oil would also reach the bearings. I would rethink that part about eliminating the oil filter though. While it would help to drain the oil every 1000 miles, the filter also serves to catch particles during that 1000 miles, so potentially some might reach the bearings if left unfiltered.

I guess your concern is that the stock Chevy filter is marginally effective. Has the aftermarket addressed this by offering some better filter setups to add on to these 6's ?

Don

 

Sure you can. Even the most simple task can be made complicated if that's what you want.

 

Drain the condensation from the air compressor.
It is better to spin the pump and force oil thru the engine, but what you describe will work but remember that you don't want just pressure you want lubricant into the bearings etc and it takes a while.

 

This is how it has to be done with moden LS family GM engines, no distributor to spin and it works great. I believe it was Hot Rod mag that had an article a few months ago on how to make a pressure oiler cheap with a 5 gallon bucket.

 

.that sounds like a great idea to get all the bearings lubed...I wouldn't sweat the oil filter either but.....it doesn't just filter 10% of the oil, the oilfilter may CONTAIN 10% of the oil....it filters ALL of the oil EVENTUALLY......not using an oil filter doesn't spell doom for the engine.....look at all the Model As & Ts still going after all these years without them....they seemed to have survived very well without oil filters.....having a byp*** oil filter is a better idea than not having one at all.....just use steel lines if you are worried about line failure....I've used automatic transmission hose on my 1951 GMC 228 cu. in. engine oil byp*** filter for years with no failures at all.

 

That is really a lot of work for very little gain. Pull the spark plugs. Squirt two shots of oil in each cylinder. Spin the starter for twenty seconds after the oil pressure comes up. Stick the plugs in and start it. Cost? Zero.

 

Be sure of container capability and guage accuracy, pressure kills !!

 

I would put the filter back on. It filters all the oil, just not all at once. With the right filter element installed, it will clean the oil cleaner than a modern filter. Without a filter the dirt just keeps going round and round, wearing your bearings, pistons etc. Draining the oil and throwing it away to get rid of the dirt is a wasteful way of doing things. Harder on your engine too.

 

If you dont pre oil it with the pump, then the pump will cavitate till is draws....

???? just a though, not a bad idea, but are you defeating the purpose...

 

They pressure lube LS motors too.

 

Used a pressure pot to pre-lube my rebuilt flathead. No options for spinning the oil pump that I could think of.

Bob

 

I use an old pressure pot brake bleeder. Works great.

 

I don't have room for pressure pots, etc. So I made up a 12 foot long flexible hose (600 psi from Kellogg's Supply, Industrial oil line) with 1/8" pipe male swivel fittings on each end.

I remove the oil pressure gauge line on my 350 Chev in my truck, and attach the other end to the oil port on the new (or 'dry', or 'leaky') engine.
Start my truck and run it for 10 minutes. (or less...)
I never forget to check oil level in my truck after. Takes up to 1.5 quarts normally...
Easy setup, draining the industrial hose afterward is easy; I hang it from the garage rafter and empty it into the used oil receptacle.

 

Thanks for the responses. Thought it should work but always wisdom in a mul***ude of counselors. I'll post some pics and any observations when I get to it.
As a side note that 235 came from the factory without an oil filter. It was a dealer add on option and it is not full pressure unless you modify the block. In stock state the filter takes about 10% out of the oil recirculating in the galleys, filters it and drop it back into the pan with the non filtered oil. I hear you guys that any filter is better than no filter but the 235 community is really pretty much 50/50 as to those that run a filter and those that don't. Anyway I may run one, I'm not opposed but really wanted to know if I was missing something in my thinking on the pre-oil - so thanks again.

Terry

 

That's funny. Nobody has 500 nhra wins. Nobody. But it adds to the entertainment.

 

We use an old Moroso oil pressure ac***ulator that was on our race car years ago. It works great allowing a couple quarts of clean oil to be supplied with NO moisture from the air supply. It has pre-lubed everything from flatheads to LS engines...nice.

 

I'm waiting. It's been a few days......
I could dig out my Wally's and put em up against your pals 500 wins.....
But, nobody has 500 wins so........

 

I think your perlube idea will work ok, but I would really think about it before I pressurized an old garden sprayer with shop air.Those old hand garden pumps don't really build much pressure before they start byp***ing.It would sure make a mess blowing2-3 quarts of oil all over beside what it could do to you physically.

 

It's not that I've gone over board but this what I had available. I have a 2.5 gal recovery tank for freon which I use. It has two valves one for liquid (siphioning off the bottom of the tank and the other with no tube for pressurizing). And two 3/4 pipe pulled holes. All I do is remove a plug, pour the oil in the tank, and and pressure. I also have a regulator on the inlet to adjust the pressure. Of course both valves have a 1/4 flare fitting on the to route the oil. Works great IMOP