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How would you remove a Crappy paint job?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by OoltewahSpeedShop, Jun 15, 2012.

  1. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    If you had a car with no rust thru that someone put a quick, crap paint job over the original paint.... How would you remove the said paint and not damage the original paint underneath?

    I don't want to remove the paint back to metal, just the last repaint.

    Anybody done something like this?
     
  2. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,022

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Wet sand it down to the original color
     
  3. BEAR
    Joined: Sep 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,326

    BEAR
    Member

    you can try EZ OFF... thats what we use to take crappy pinstriping let it set foe 2 to 5 mins and wash it off .. try it in a little spot first
     
  4. henry29
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 2,880

    henry29
    Member

  5. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 22,505

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    I'd say 600 grit wet sand paper. sand until you get close, then use 1000[
     
  6. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

  7. mashed
    Joined: Oct 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,473

    mashed
    Member
    from 4077th

  8. A good media blaster can take paint off a layer at a time.
     
  9. metlmunchr
    Joined: Jan 16, 2010
    Posts: 876

    metlmunchr
    Member

    If its one of those paint jobs where the previous surface wasn't thoroughly cleaned of all wax and grease then a pressure washer will often take it right off, especially if its enamel.

    Bought a backhoe a few years ago with a god awful mess of a paint job that appeared to be in pretty good shape otherwise. Figured a repaint would allow me to double my money on it. Told my son to pressure wash it before we started sanding to smooth up the paint. I go out to check about 3 hours later to see if he's gone to sleep or something, and find he's stripped about 90% of the paint back to original with the pressure washer. Took him a couple more hours to finish all the nooks and crannies, but when he finished there wasn't a speck of the shit paint job left anywhere, and none of the original paint came off in the process.
     
  10. Badillac56
    Joined: Sep 28, 2004
    Posts: 41

    Badillac56
    Member

    There is no substitute for sand paper and elbow grease. Beware of the strippers.
     
  11. What I may try is a soft rag and some MEK. If the crappy paint is real crappy paint ans the paint undernieth is good and solid the MEK should lift it and not reall hurt the good paint. We use MEK to remove pinstripes all the time.

    be worth a try, maybe try it on a hard to see spot first.
     
  12. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    Looks like they just sprayed a half ass semi gloss black over the original Henry black. The MEK didn't have much effect. 600 paper knocked it down pretty quick. Just the high spots.

    Drove it to our local Sonic Cruise In last night.

    Here's the "So Far".....
     

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  13. gassercrazy41
    Joined: Jan 9, 2011
    Posts: 1,432

    gassercrazy41
    Member

    Just wet sand with some 600 then go down to 1000 I'd say


    Sent from my iPhone using TJJ app
     
  14. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    Once getting thru the shitty repaint, I see why they did it. Theres not much original paint left and bare metal in alot of spots. Any suggestions on a clear or something to protect the metal?

    I'm not ready to do a full paint job right now, and don't want any metal damage while I'm enjoying it as is.
     
  15. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 6,443

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member

    Just spot prime it and roll with it. If you're going to paint it, it'll need to come down to bare steel eventually.
     
  16. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,393

    indyjps
    Member

    agree, spot prime it or use semi gloss black, scotch brite the whole car to even it out.
     
  17. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    Oh yeah, It will definitely have to go back to bare metal to get the SLICK black. Just trying to preserve it for a while. I've been driving it to work all week, total time warp..... Love it.
     
  18. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,841

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    400 grit and then work finer
     
  19. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,787

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    Never have had good luck trying to strip just the top layer off. Good luck, though I'd be more inclined to scuff it and give it a quick cheap single stage job.
     
  20. enloe
    Joined: May 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,981

    enloe
    Member
    from east , tn.

    Cool car will we see it friday night??
     
  21. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    Yeah, I think one of our car club members is gonna drive it over. It's been my daily driver for the last couple of weeks. Great car.
     
  22. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,001

    adam401
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    :eek:Aircooled VW sites are filled with threads on this topic. Original paint is king on early VWs. I have heard all the different methiods but my own experience has shown me that:
    Cut a the top layer by hand with 220 wet. Just knock off the shine.
    You don't want to expose the layer underneath.

    Then 400 wet until the substate (og paint) comes though. I then use 600 but some might say that is too abrasive.

    I only sand until 70% of the paint is removed (what is left looks like a milky, streaky layer).
    Then I use Ajax with a geen scotchbrite pad until the original paint is exposed.

    To buff it out I have used hand compound and then wax because I am not skilled with a buffer and the paint thats remaining will be even easier to fuck up than a fresh paint job.

    You will probably end up blending a few areas where repairs have been made. CLR and scotchbrite works well on any surface rust they may have painted over.

    Good luck, I have done this twice and it takes for fucking ever. Im thinking about doing it to a 41 buick fastback next
     
  23. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    Well, I've been on vacation for the last 10 days. While most people would be doing nothing but enjoying the beach... I've been thinking of the best way to attack this paint.

    After taking all suggestions to heart, I chose to strip the top layer with EZ Off oven cleaner. Then work on the problem areas with Green Scotch Brite pads and CLR.

    The EZ Off cut that shit like butter..... :D The green pads are WAY abrasive, so I took it easy. The grey pads might have worked better (in my situation), but I didn't have any new ones. After ruffing up the RR fender for absolutely no reason, I put the pad down until all the paint was back to the original.

    The ruffed up area will slick back up pretty easy, but it scared me when it dried.

    Here's a few "So Far" pics. As you can see, that Henry black is alive and well with some shine still left in it. A couple of the pics show where I stopped stripping, and the difference between the two.

    I went VERY slow and only did small spots so I wouldn't damage the original paint.

    What do you guys think so far?
     

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  24. Diavolo
    Joined: Apr 1, 2009
    Posts: 824

    Diavolo
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  25. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    A few more.
     

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    Last edited: Jul 14, 2012
  26. dirt slinger
    Joined: Jan 30, 2010
    Posts: 645

    dirt slinger
    Member

    I sure do like that car! Wish my dad had kept it. Good thing is it went to a good home.
     
  27. bobby_Socks
    Joined: Apr 12, 2006
    Posts: 938

    bobby_Socks
    Member
    from ǑǃƕǑ

  28. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Spot prime....Find primer in a color that's close to the remaining factory paint and go with it. It has to look better than the sh**** job someone did.......

    4TTRUK
     
  29. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    Well... The factory color is Henry Black. Seems like the factory primer color is red oxide. Looks like there is some grey primer up around the grill area. Can't imagine that isn't original, because everything else is...... So, should be.
     

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  30. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    Here's a few more pics from this week. These are from a really nice river park on the way home from work. I still have a little more work to do on the doors, trunk and roof but it's getting there. It looks to have had some sort of logo on the doors (same kind of spot on both doors). Hopefully I can save it.
     

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