833 shifting problems after engine swap

I swapped engine in front of a working Chrysler 833 transmission (a-body style from 1966) and now it doesn't shift right. I can only shift into 3rd and 4th gear, and the drive shaft is stuck even if the shifter is in neutral and/or the clutch is down. What to do, what to do...?

Worth mentioning is that I didn't fixate the shifter in neutral position before connecting the linkages, could it be that simple, that this is all I have to do or does it sound like there might be some other problem?

And also, I would love to see if the engine starts correctly, but do I dare with this problem? Or is it no problem if the clutch is down (I can see that the clutch mechanism is working).

I would be most appreciative of any help I can get as the garage is far away from me so I only get to go there on weekends and have limited time to sort this kind of problems out =(

 

Yes, there will be a major issue if the transmission was not in neutral when the linkage is installed. I see a re-installation in your future. At least of the linkage.
NO! Do not try to start the engine even with the clutch depressed. You have said already that the drive shaft will not turn with the clutch depressed, so I would not try to run the engine in that situation.

 

Thanks for answer. Will definitely re-install linkages according to information like this: http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/500/530/530-503-0032.pdf

Silly me for thinking it was just to remove linkages, and then reattach them... This is where experience would come in very handy...

And about starting the engine. I didn't start it, but I did build up the oil pressure in the engine for about 1 min on the starter before realizing this problem. Could this have injured the transmission? *starting to feel worried.....* As I remember, I at least didn't hear any sounds from the transmission, of breaking or otherwise...

 

Doubt it that you hurt it if you didn't hear parts flying about inside the transmission.

 

You may have it in two gears at once. Take the linkage off and move the arms on the trans till the driveshaft turns then re install the linkage with the shifter in nuetral. Lippy

 

Thanks for reassuring me =) Of course I can't say for sure, but we were thee guys inside a silent garage and all I can remember hearing was the sound of the starter and the fan...

Thanks, will do! I will definitely not turn the key again before I can shift clearly into all gears and turn the drive shaft in both neutral gear and with clutch depressed. The mechanic in the garage also said it was likely two gears in at once, but had no earlier experience with the 833 type of transmission.

Is there any other problem that might have occurred while we were swapping engine? We did both lift, tilt and put the transmission on it's side... and if there is any other problem, is it likely one could fix it without spare parts, I mean could something have been lodged or something that one might fix by opening the transmission up and taking a look...

 

If the rear tires are on the ground, the driveshaft will not turn. If the transmission is stuck in gear, the driveshaft will not turn. Unless you changed the way the shifter linkage was set, you should be able to just reconnect it and it should work, but you wrote that you could only shift between 3rd and 4th which would mean the trans is in either 1st or 2nd gear and the shifter is incorrectly set.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the transmission being hurt, an 833 is a tough transmission. I have beat on them for years without a transmission failure, lost many clutches, several driveshafts, several rear axles, and even a few shifters, but an 833 transmission.
If you still have a problem after getting the transmission in neutral and setting your shifter linkage correctly, make sure you did not put the clutch friction disc in backwards. The friction disc backwards will make the clutch unable to disengage. Gene

 

Thanks for the answer 50dodge4x4. I am sure I put the friction disc the right way, but I guess I can't be 100 % until I check it again =) So hopefully it's the linkage that needs to be reconnected with shifter neutralized.

By the way. I don't understand your first sentence. If everything is correctly installed, the tires are on the ground and I am pushing the car, the drive shaft must turn, must it not?

 

I've pretty well given up assuming that people have full knowledge of the ins and outs of what they are working on so if I'm giving more information than you need please let it slide.
I borrowed this photo off the net and since the new photobucket won't let me edit things I'll give the proper credit to Custom trucks magazine,


If you haven't already adjusted the shifter, here is a quick tutorial on how to do it.

Take the rods loose from the arms and get a pin the correct size to slip in the hole in the side of the shifter. Move the levers so that the pin will slide though the hole in all three and through the corresponding hole in the back side of the shifter. That lines up all three arms.

Then move the arms on the side of the trans so that each one is in neutral position and adjust the rods so that each one slips in the hole in the arm on the side of the transmission easily. Then tighten things down and pull the pin out and you should be good to go.

 

Thank you for that detailed instruction Mr48chev! I think I know what to do and hopefully I can get to the garage (which unfortunately is about 120 miles from my current position) and fix it this weekend.

The thing I don't quite understand though is "adjust the rods". Do I put the rods in neutral, then adjust the length of them so that they reach to the shifter? How could that have changed from when I uninstalled them? I am sure I will make it work, but I just don't understand the mechanics of it all =)

 

Don't use that picture exactly, as one of the arms mounts opposite to normal on the side cover. The image is of the A833 overdrive transmission.
As he said above, put the shifter in neutral, and "pin" it. The shifter rods stay connected at the shifter. Disconnect them from the arms on the levers on the side cover. Put the levers into their respective neutral positions, then turn the threaded block on the shifter rod in or out until you can reinstall the pin on the block back into the lever.

 

Yes, you are correct, if you push the car the drive shaft must turn. I was referring to the fact that if the tires were on the ground, you could not turn the driveshaft without turning the wheels, regardless of whether or not the transmission was in neutral or in a gear.
Sorry for causing the confusion. Gene

 

Ohh, okey. I guess I were a little confused. I tought I was gonna disconnect the rods from the shifter and didn't see how that could make any difference. But now I understand that I keep the rods installed on the shifter and "pin" it, then reattach them to the levers once the levers are in neutral position. Thanks!

It's okey =) I know I am a novice when it comes to some of this technical stuff, but I really tought I knew that one so I had to ask, hehe =)

 

I just want to thank everyone for the helpful posts. I fixed the problem today! It was the bottom lever that was in gear when the shifter was not. So I had to remove the linkage from the bottom lever, then turn the lever forward until I could hear the gear pop out and the drive shaft could turn freely again. I then re-attached the linkage rod to the lever and the shifting is now working normally.

For future reference I now know that something is wrong when the drive shaft isn't spinning as I tighten it to the back axle without the hand brake engaged =)

Now for the next problem....... The engine won't ignite =( I started another thread with that problem and am hoping for the same helpful posts there!